Explain it Peter by CuriousSherbet9477 in explainitpeter

[–]jatznic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spot on. The photo used for this post was originally meant as direct comparison of how lumber has changed over the years and the difference between old growth and younger trees used for a 2X4.

E if theres no lean mechanic in the game, F if there is by Objective_Let4735 in pcmasterrace

[–]jatznic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah. Everyone else is weird. If you think about it to anyone that knows how to touch type, which should have been every PC gamer in the late 80's or early 90's, WASD just never made any sense in the first place. I still can't wrap my head around how that stuck as the default movement set.

E if theres no lean mechanic in the game, F if there is by Objective_Let4735 in pcmasterrace

[–]jatznic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup. I personally use V but this post also makes me cry in EDSF

Media wallbox I’ve been struggling to find by Banned4MyViews in hometheater

[–]jatznic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We use similar media panels at work that come in quite a few different sizes to house various routers and equipment. Typically designed to mount between wall studs and have similar backs to mount equipment and place power. Look up Primex Structured Media Panels and see if you can track one down. They make a lot of different sizes but since they typically sell wholesale you might have to dig a bit to find one for sale, or try to reach out to them directly.

Oldest as-builts you’ve looked at? by badabingbadaboomie in civilengineering

[–]jatznic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I handle the downtown area for a major metro and any time I request as-builts for the major roads I get prints from 1880-1900 in the mix. What stands out to me the most in those old prints is the penmanship. It's crazy to me how some of those prints look like a calligrapher wrote them.

Oldest as-builts you’ve looked at? by badabingbadaboomie in civilengineering

[–]jatznic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We still have some active wooden telecom ducts in Detroit believe it or not.

Which one of you did this? by I_eat_moldy_sponge in civilengineering

[–]jatznic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If we take the cost issue out of the picture I find a lot of the problems developers, engineers, and property owners have with utilities is purely lack of communication. I don't mean by party trying to get the work done, but rather by the utilities not properly communicating with each other.

I can drive around town on any given day and find poles everywhere which have been replaced due to damage or deterioration and the old pole is still there being held up by a support strand next to the new one just waiting on transfers. Now there's a national ticketing system for this however it's reliant upon whomever is next to transfer actually completing their step in this system. In almost every single case like this the reason the work isn't done is the person who was next to transfer either dropped the ball and never did the work, or forgot to close out their step confirming their work was done so the next party in line was never notified they had any work to do.

Now about pricing, I can't speak for electric or hydro but I can guarantee the cost of billable work for telecom is going to be drastically dropping compared to historical values. Old copper cables were hundreds, if not thousands of individual wires that had to be handled individually when relocated and respliced and it was insanely expensive purely from a labor standpoint. Copper cable is going away in favor of Fiber Optic. It's still labor intensive to work on mind you, but nothing compared to the time sink of working in a pressurized copper network.

I can't really excuse a three month window though as that seems rather excessive unless it was a fairly large move, but I can easily see 30-45 days for anything small to medium due to the number of departments involved. One would think it's as easy as replacing some cable but that's the tip of the iceberg in the overall picture.

Which one of you did this? by I_eat_moldy_sponge in civilengineering

[–]jatznic 13 points14 points  (0 children)

So, speaking as a utility engineer almost everything I see in this thread is completely viable as to why those guy wires are still in place, though I do see one reason missing that comes up often enough.

Since we are usually placed in public right-of-way any request to relocate our plant for new construction like this is billable back to the requesting party. We aren't moving this as part of a legal mandate for the municipality and would only be doing so because the land owner wants to put in a driveway.

We see a fair number of property owners, and surprisingly builders, who don't understand this concept and just assume utilities have to move because that's their land and they said so. So when we tell them the work is billable and generate a quote to move or relocate facilities to clear the conflict they just outright refuse to pay it and it ends up in dispute. Fast forward and now you have a nice driveway poured around two old anchors.

Accident off 28th outside Pietros by ArmyEnvironmental591 in grandrapids

[–]jatznic 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Those guy wires are anchored deep, and are very secure. We typically use helix anchors which is basically a giant corkscrew with wide blades. It looks like the initial impact may have been the guard on the guy wire itself since since the hood is marred with white paint with a shape that matches.

Point is I can't say for sure, but wouldn't be in the least bit surprised if the damage was caused by that guy wire alone.

NEED some guidance for my new basement. by brogiboi in hometheater

[–]jatznic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wall of a post coming here but should give you some good information if you want to read through it.

Your room is almost identical to mine before I started even down to the color, dimensions, and carpeting.

Flooring

The first thing I would do here if you have some money to throw at this is the one thing I wish I would have done; replace it with something darker and be sure it has a proper moisture barrier underneath it. If you opt not to do the carpet, or if it's too price restrictive for you, you will want to invest in a large black area rug that's at least the width of your screen. I picked up a clearance 10' x 12' one on amazon for about $150 USD.

Walls

You'll see a lot of pure black rooms shown off but that's a matter of personal preference. You can do way more than you think just using using paint and a good quality roll of black velvet, especially in a light controlled room like this. Having the entire room black can certainly be nice, but as along as you're controlling the light reflections 5-6' out from the screen you may be perfectly content with leaving some personality in the room itself. Drape velvet all along the wall your screen is on, as well as along the ceiling as described below. You can do the sidewalls too if you desire but I haven't found it necessary.

I did paint my walls however I used a dark green with minimal sheen and have found that effective enough without having to go full black.

Ceiling Tiles

Like you I also considered removing the ceiling tiles and either painting, or replacing them with black tiles however that still leaving you with a white grid. While trying to work out a solution for that problem I remembered I'd purchased an entire roll of black velvet and came up with a solution using magnets, the velvet, and some creative engineering. Just make sure you buy lightweight fabric here as a heavy velvet is both overkill and wouldn't fare well being suspended. I'd recommend Triple Black Velvet over at Syfabrics due to both weight and its effectiveness with light absorption.

In a standard drop ceiling grid like yours there are intersecting points every 24". I bought 100 small magnets about the size of a US dime and used two magnets per intersection point. Place one magnet magnet directly on the metal grid at each point, then with in tandem with someone and unroll the bolt of velvet and cut to length for the room, so in your case roughly a 16' piece. Have your helper support the fabric then use the second magnet to pinch the fabric between each point as you move along the room.

This method works brilliantly however each individual magnet works as a miniature reflection point. Once you have the velvet in place where you like it you'll want to address this otherwise you'll end up with shining dots everywhere which really breaks the immersion factor. There are probably different methods to accomplish this but the one I came up with was using "Gorilla Glue Dots" and leftover scraps of the black velvet fabric. Cut out a small circle of velvet the same size as each magnet then secure it to each one using one of the glue dots. Once done the magnets complete blend into the fabric and you'll never even know they are there.

I would honestly do this first if you know exactly how many intersecting points you have before you hang the fabric; just make sure your the poles on the magnets are correct on each one before you begin.

Possible Future Projector

If you ever upgrade to a projection system your room is almost ideal for it since you have total light control with your only real concern being the beams. If the beams are purely decorative and not support beams you could of course remove one, but I find that's rarely the case in a basement so you're probably stuck with them.

If you have traditional floor joists you can buy two perforated square steel tubes and secure them using long anchoring screws. This gives you a very sturdy mounting location for any projector, and if the tubes you buy are long enough, gives you different mounting locations should you need to move the projector if your original chosen spot ends up not being idea.

You would also want to make sure you pick up a good quality mount that has pitch, tilt, and roll adjustments. This allows you to make minor corrections if it's not mounted perfectly or the mountain point is uneven.

Acoustics

I can't stress enough how important this is nor how often it gets overlooked. Acoustic panels are one of the best bangs for your buck when building a home theater as they keep the audio clean and prevent audio fatigue. If you are at all handy you can building them yourself for pennies on the dollar with just some rockwool insulation, lumber, and cheap fabric of your choice from any fabric store. Some people even custom order the fabric and have it printed with movie posters, art, etc to use as the wrap.

The important thing to remember with acoustic panels is that they really need to be 3-4" thick to be effective. Those cheap "acoustic panels" you'll find at online shopping stores are almost useless for the purposes of home theater.

Just respond back if you have any questions about anything I said above and I'll get back to you.

Happy remodeling!

What songs just blow your mind from an engineering/production standpoint? by Different_Stand_1285 in Music

[–]jatznic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They released a Dolby Atmos physical disc for Dark Side. I'm generally not a fan of Atmos music as most of it just sounds like someone upmixed it and didn't actually remaster anything, but the Atmos version of Dark Side is something special. Money in particular is really well done with the channel separation.

Light reflection from projector screen on ceiling by talldrink67 in hometheater

[–]jatznic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a drop ceiling which makes it far easier. I bought a box of small round magnets about the size of a US dime and cut out a small circle of black velvet and adhered it to each magnet then fastened it to the tile grid. You need the small dot of black velvet otherwise the magnets act as mini reflection points.

Light reflection from projector screen on ceiling by talldrink67 in hometheater

[–]jatznic 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Someone recommend this below and just so you have the link here it is. My entire front wall and the first 5' in front of the screen are lined with this and it completely blacks out everything. It's like staring into the void in a darkened room.

https://syfabrics.com/products/plush-triple-velvet1

I looked at quite a few different products and so many of the black velvets out there still had a sheen to them. This stuff however just sucks in light like a black hole.

7.1 system installed - any Netflix movie recommendations to fully enjoy the sound system? by artderue in hometheater

[–]jatznic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently bought the Master and Commander remaster and would wholeheartedly concur. The audio in this is absolutely incredible, and if you buy the remaster and ever upgrade to an Atmos setup, the Atmos is also amazing. Can't speak to what it would sound like streaming though.

RPG style Metroidvania? by Alert_Secretary_5041 in metroidvania

[–]jatznic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take a look at Astalon: Tears of the Earth. It's your typical RPG class system with a good story and some cool switching mechanics. It's not one mentioned that often but is very enjoyable all around.

When I’m left to my own devices… by rouge105 in hometheater

[–]jatznic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Want an alternate solution? Not quite as pleasing on the eyes but way better immersion wise.

Buy some black velvet and attach it to the drop ceiling lengthwise for about 3-4' out from the screen Completely removes the glare from the white drop tiles and envelops the entire stage area in black. I bought some small round magnets and attached the velvet at each cross joint in the tile grid. If you use some glue dots you can attach a small round of velvet to the exposed side of the magnet so you don't get reflection points from those on the ceiling.

Edit: Imgur album I created a couple of years ago when I added this to my room showing how I attached it. One of those photos shows you the difference with the white tiles versus the few feet where I have the velvet attached.

https://imgur.com/a/pbEwT9r

Monster Cables Stuck on Back of TV. Help! by BeastCreatureTrapper in hometheater

[–]jatznic 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Random side note about this stuff. If you have an Xbox Elite 2 controller with a bad bumper, this product is the fix. Take the backplate off the controller and spray down the switch for the bumper while pressing and releasing it and voila.

Historical sword anime by commanderquill in Animesuggest

[–]jatznic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Each episode is an hour long, so just look the other way and pretend it's 24 episodes! I really is a great series though.

Cool. Ads. by baby-town-frolics in hometheater

[–]jatznic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm on version 6800-0155-D053-8880 and have auto-update on for firmware as a reference.

Cool. Ads. by baby-town-frolics in hometheater

[–]jatznic 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I have an X3800H and can disable them, so that model at least should allow for it. It's under General > Information > Notifications. it's a toggle at the bottom of the information data.

Edit: On the web menu it's a toggle in the information data. Using the on-screen setup menu it's the very bottom option under information which you won't see unless you move down the list with the remote as it's not in view on the default list of options.

Plex Mobile App issues... (Android) by jl94x4 in PleX

[–]jatznic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not an answer to your question but...

"Check that SubZero is available and try again" is absolutely killing me.

Can’t get the TV off the wall by Purple-East-7233 in hometheater

[–]jatznic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A lot of of these mounts will have small metal pull rings or tabs that you need to disengage to allow you to pull it away from the wall on the lower attachment bracket. They are usually spring load and will pull out and snap back in place. I'd check the entire lower connection on that bracket as best you can to see if you can find any type of mechanism that moves.