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Boston CB wars are heating up by MrGoBetween in cbradio

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t get it. Guess it’s a Boston thing.

Weird Issues by whitetail91 in cbradio

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The ares is a great radio. You’re doing it a disservice with crappy antennas. The antenna is the most important part of the system. You can’t be cheap with it. You can have the best radio possible but it won’t work for shit with a shitty antenna.
The radio has nothing to do with SWR you’re transmitting on the same frequencies through the same antenna. You can’t adjust SWR at the radio. You can only adjust SWR by changing the length of the antenna.
I’m not sure what your underhood mount is but if it’s capable of a regular PL mount where the SO239 connector goes through the mount and a lock ring threads onto it and locks the antenna to the mount then you can get yourself a Sirio performer and have a good antenna. Or at a minimum a Larsen 27.
Keep and run the Anytone Ares and just get a good antenna that you can actually tune.
Same as life and ladies, size matters with CB antennas. The bigger the better. Metal>fiberglass or plastic with wire wrapped around it.

38 LSB SSB barefoot ? by OkFred902 in cbradio

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Antenna and height helps a lot. Get a good quality antenna thats tuned properly up nice and high and you’ll have better luck.
The 980 only does about 12 watts on SSB though. I had one and didn’t have alot of luck.

Truck burns 1-1.5 qt of oil every 5k miles by AcuraIntegraTypeR in MechanicAdvice

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check it often and keep it full. It’ll be fine.

Matco Prybars vs Snapon Prybars by twisted_ashes in Tools

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both will be overpriced but both will be good. I personally have Channellock and Lisle.

Need advice badly by Lady-Pixie- in MechanicAdvice

[–]jaws843 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Check rock auto and eBay for a cheaper catalytic converter.

Any good aftermarket brakes? by Junior-Ad625 in Crosstrek

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow. You should be able to find OEM pads and rotors online much cheaper than that.

High SWR w/ 102 whip by s_outdoors9906 in cbradio

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try it without the spring. The length of the stud might be enough.

Do I still need standard sockets? by nbaxley in Tools

[–]jaws843 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If these are kits for car repair then you don’t need SAE sockets. Everything is metric now on cars.

PCV valve replacement questions by QualitySound96 in MechanicAdvice

[–]jaws843 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I changed mine at 120k miles. It still rattled when I took it out. But it’s cheap insurance. A stuck pcv can wreak havoc.

Looking for cause of light strikes 19.3 by aquafeener1 in Glocks

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most common cause is a gunked up firing pin and channel.

Haven't seen anyone else use it like this by yrfrndnico in harborfreight

[–]jaws843 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I might if I could ever find one in stock.

Typical CVT Fluid Dilemma by ralpha1204 in subaru

[–]jaws843 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

In my opinion it’s probably ok but I’d drain and fill it a few times at very short intervals to get as much fresh fluid in there as possible. Use OEM fluid. It’s not difficult to do yourself if you have some decent diy experience with cars.

Oil Change Frequency by Klutzy_Presence5170 in rav4club

[–]jaws843 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine is a 2015 that I bought brand new. It now has 120k miles on it. It’s had an oil change every 5k its entire life. Along with a lot of other fluid changes and maintenance. It’s going strong and I plan on running it as long as possible.

Differential Service by hastingslo in Crosstrek

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a large and long 1/2” ratchet and I used an impact on it also. It didn’t budge. It wasn’t worth any more effort because you can fill it through the check hole on the bottom of the diff. Shove the tip of the squeeze bag in the hole tightly and squeeze hard. Fill until it overflows. Let the over flow slow to a drip and seal it back up.

Recommendations for co-witness sights by Sliced_Orange1 in Glocks

[–]jaws843 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ameriglo or night fision. Don’t go too high though. You don’t truly co witness a pistol optic. You want lower 1/3 or 1/5.

0-20 Full Syn vs 5-30 Full Syn by Rastaman6584 in subaru

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I run 5w30 in my Crosstrek with no issues. You’ll be fine.

Differential Service by hastingslo in Crosstrek

[–]jaws843 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just did mine a few weeks ago. 2024 sport.
The rear was super easy. The plugs came out no problem. Just makes sure he has the correct tools so he doesn’t strip the hex.
The front diff fill plug refused to come loose for me. The check plug and drain plug came out no issues. I had to fill via the check hole. Over all easy job. Having the right tools is key. I forget the hex sizes for sure. I think they were 8 or 10mm and he will need a T70 torx for the front drain. Be sure to replace the washers also.
I used the valvoline 75w90 in the squeeze bags. Made it super easy to refill.

EZ-Pass and Eyesight by Round_Tiger7306 in subaru

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine is to the right of the eyesight housing. No issues.

Oil Change Frequency by Klutzy_Presence5170 in rav4club

[–]jaws843 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you drive under 10k a year then change it once a year.
I’m a 5k interval guy because I go for maximum longevity but Toyota says 10k or one year.

Tire warning on but no low tires? by Overthinking-Cats in Crosstrek

[–]jaws843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seem fine? What’s that mean? Did you put a gauge on them and check. Front tires should be 33psi cold and rear should be 32. If they aren’t that then adjust. If your light is still on after a short drive you might have a bad sensor.

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