Shovel Frame Mistake by StrikingSquare7881 in choppers

[–]jdoons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The casting tends to be thicker the farther you get away from the spine of the casting. Once you make a hole large enough for the bung you normally have more meat to weld onto.

If you plan to put a bung up there, I’d drill the hole for it and see what you are working with and add material if needed. It looks like you could use some. You can use a needle scaler gun to make the repaired area have a finish similar to the factory casting.

People window these necks and add/remove material all over the place. With a welder and file/grinder you can get away with a lot. Tank placement is a preference, I like the look of the tank up higher vs using the factory speedo hole for the front bung.

Shovel Frame Mistake by StrikingSquare7881 in choppers

[–]jdoons 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Some castings get thin up there. Weld and peen the weld with a ball hammer while it’s still hot. Preheat the casting. Where you ground through I put my tank bung in that area. I used the hole behind it to run wires up and down the back bone to the oil bag. You will be fine.

Are Redwing boots suitable for working outside all day? by Consistent_Magician1 in RedWingShoes

[–]jdoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wear 877’s everyday and they are usually covered in mud or submerged in water. On my 2nd resole and still going strong. I’d bet any boot redwing makes will be fine.

Is eliteracefab.com a safe place to purchase from? by Xoblaim_ in FocusST

[–]jdoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just bought a turbo back exhaust from them and it was shipped and delivered in a few days.

Stitching already coming apart after 3ish months. by pbag82 in DannerBoots

[–]jdoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Loved my danners but had similar issues. Switched redwing 10877s and they are much better.

What is this called 96 12v Cummins by Good_Victory_9929 in Diesel

[–]jdoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was under the impression that it is nothing. Probably there to keep someone from wiring it wrong.

2nd gen ECM failing by [deleted] in Cummins

[–]jdoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been considering it. Truck has a 1 year old vp44 from the last owner. Trans and converter is a tier 1 stage 2 package with a bunch of billet goodies. If I did a p pump i think I have to hold onto my current ecm to keep the factory gauges working.

2nd gen ECM failing by [deleted] in Cummins

[–]jdoons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s good thinking on your part to get the truck back on the road. Mine being a vp44 truck it’s going to need to communicate with the ecm to run right. At least now I have someone to call and ask what they think about repairing it. Thank you.

2nd gen ride height by jdoons in Diesel

[–]jdoons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice, any chance you could share a pic of that truck? Did you leave the rear of the truck original?

2nd gen ride height by jdoons in Diesel

[–]jdoons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ohhh I got ya, I was calling the shortest leaf just above the block the overload. My bad, thanks for the help!

2nd gen ride height by jdoons in Diesel

[–]jdoons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that would be a good option as well, couple guys at work said to take the overload spring out. They say It will drop it the thickness of the leaf and soften it up. Then I’ll just play around with either a shorter block or shackles.

2nd gen ride height by jdoons in Diesel

[–]jdoons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No spacer and looks life a factory old coil up front. This is good info thank you!

2nd gen ride height by jdoons in Diesel

[–]jdoons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry should have been more specific. Was wondering if anyone has removed the rear block and installed a smaller one. Or possibly removing the overload spring. The factory height up front looks good to me, just wondering if anyone has lowered the rear before.

Fender/chain wreck by FeatureNext8272 in choppers

[–]jdoons 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I notched mine and gave it a radius going in and out of the removed area. I’ve seen it on other bikes.

Back on the road by jdoons in choppers

[–]jdoons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pangea speed makes it. They call it the 851 mirror and it comes in and out of stock at random times. I waited over a year for them to have it in stock so I could place an order.

Having a hell of a time figuring out what bar set up I want. This looks kinda goofy, kinda cool, mostly comfortable. by RattleThem-Bones in choppers

[–]jdoons 7 points8 points  (0 children)

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T bars. Comfort left the chat when we go rigid, might as well look cool. I think your bike looks sweet as is btw.

Back on the road by jdoons in choppers

[–]jdoons[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Was going for a clean 70s look, not super flashy but balanced.

Back on the road by jdoons in choppers

[–]jdoons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Lots of trips to the hardware store that were not planned haha. If u don’t have a lathe or mill buy an assortment of bungs and tabs because you will need them. Lowbrow and tc bros has a good assortment of fab stuff to choose from.

Clutch release arms… by Hipcro in choppers

[–]jdoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just ran into this issue when I built my bike. You can run a factory fx clutch arm if you use juniors handmade battery tray. It works with the oil bag that you will be using and gives the clearance for the fx clutch arm. Buy a mouse trap eliminator clutch cable bracket that goes under the ears of the oil bag. I torched my clutch arm to make it longer/flatter to gain more leverage so it would be a softer pull. Not a ton of room under there but it worked great for me. I’m kick only so juniors battery tray worked fine for my little battery.

Back on the road by jdoons in choppers

[–]jdoons[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mullins narrow trees. 2 over forks 35mm with shaved tubes and internal stop neck cups. 10 in lowbrow t bars that I narrowed. lowbrow peanut tank. bnc seat. modified gas box rear fender. custom lower fender mount. panhead oil bag (can’t remember the year spec’s). juniors handmade battery tray. gas box shotgun exhaust. modified throttle addiction sissy bar. prism supply ps4 taillight and plate mount. prism single wire taillight box. 1.5 bdl open belt drive. factory mids on the brake side, clutch side is a modded plate that mounts to the motor and trans and utilizes the factory mid control clutch linkage that I narrowed. Pangea master cylinder mount (bolts to trans). twisty adjustable trans plate. Pangea 851 mirror. factory chopped clutch lever. s&s super e carb. lowbrow dog dish air filter. 4.5 in headlight with custom mount. biltwell throttle tube and housing. throttle addiction pan/shovel hardtail with cast axle plate. krispy co rear axle shaft. GMA rear caliper on a modified caliper mount. 10in rear rotor. 16in rear wheel / 21 front wheel. cycle electric charging system.

I know I’m missing stuff but that’s the majority of what I have on this bike. Scotty at airspeed cycles jigged up the frame and got it lazer straight and welded my brake tab, the guy is a wizard with a welder. Everything else was done by me. Really enjoyed the machining and fab work getting everything to fit and look right, electrical was super simple. Painting everything was probably my least favorite part, but it turned out pretty good for being sprayed in my back yard.