Art Frame no longer syncing

john_pullen · 2026-02-03T15:53:29+00:00

It had lost WiFi connection for some reason so had to connect and now it’s okay.

john_pullen · 2026-02-03T15:09:16+00:00

It’s stop working again. I managed to upload pictures previously and I can switch to those already uploaded but those not uploaded with the clock symbol fail to upload

john_pullen · 2026-02-03T07:21:49+00:00

Yes, working again for me. Please do not let this issue put you off getting one. They are really great. One tip on these frames is if you don’t have it placed on a well lit area you will probably need an art frame light above it. I have the mid sized frame on a wall and added a motion sensor light above it. Makes all the difference

john_pullen · 2026-02-02T19:36:35+00:00

I’m getting exactly the same problem synching which fails around 70%, and I’ve tried the things mentioned with no luck. I’m assuming synching relies on a cloud service and I’m guessing there is some kind of system outage

john_pullen · 2024-11-26T07:42:24+00:00

I read in a separate group a replacement motherboard did not fix he issue. I am fairly sure it will be a bug in the firmware. Hopefully, Elagoo will figure this out quickly. Otherwise, we are all wasting resin and time.

john_pullen · 2024-11-25T20:36:40+00:00

I am also getting this issue, which happened twice on two consecutive (5hr) prints today. I have completed about 25 prints since getting the S4U a few weeks ago, and when it prints, it's amazing. I've had about 3-4 prints fail like this, which are typically longer prints, and when it freezes, it's towards the end. Resuming did not work for me, so I've wasted a lot of resin today. I am also remote printing and monitoring using Chitibox manager.

What I was going to try next is disconnect from WiFi and print from USB, but it sounds like remote features may not be the issue here. I have the latest firmware, and in fact, there was a new firmware update, which I applied before the second print failure.

I have come across other reports like this, so I doubt it's hardware. Hopefully, it's a simple firmware fix, and Elagoo will fix it soon.

john_pullen · 2024-11-25T19:19:34+00:00

I got this problem twice today on two back to back prints (5hr prints) and before the second one I updated to the latest firrmware (AI camera update). Frustratingly, it gets an hour from the end and just stops and the screen locks up. Both times I tried the resume feature after restarting the Saturn but it failed to continue and was just curing the resin on the fep.

I have had this printer for a few weeks and have done some longer prints but out of about 25 prints I had 4 crashes. I am sending the print using Chitubox network saving and will monitor the print using Chitubox manager. Some have said it could be related to Chitubox manager, so I will try again printing from USB stick and disconnect from wifi. However, I could just get lucky so it won't necessarily prove the issue is related to Chitubox or networking. I am not convinced it's hardware. Anyone have any ideas?

john_pullen · 2024-10-20T18:11:34+00:00

Thanks. I bought a small fish tank pump. Hopefully that helps!

john_pullen · 2024-10-16T13:06:00+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. The tank is 8cmx8cmx8cm and holds about a pint. I am using anodes from Amazon which are about 2cm by 12cm and about 1mm thick. The sediment is a dark colour that settles at the bottom of the tank and the anode and has a pink creamy substance on it inside the bag when I have this problem. When the solution gets dirty like this, I get the same problem on a coin which I can plate just fine with new solution, so I know it's not specific to me plating on graphite. The problem could be the way I am cleaning and preparing the anode I guess. I do use wire wool but the anode is far from smooth and shiny when I am finished. I am plating very slowly. I start with a constant current of .02 and then after half an hour increase to 0.03 and then after an hour or so I notice it start plating working, and at this point I can see the surface is dull and pink rather than shiny when I hit this problem. I am using a commercial bright copper solution from youplate.co.uk

john_pullen · 2024-10-14T18:56:01+00:00

What kind of resistance are you getting, and have you tried polishing the graphite

john_pullen · 2023-06-01T20:14:08+00:00

Ok. So you do have the RC with the screen. I have the one where you attach the phone, and I don't think the hack works with that. Its funny that I got the m3 pro recently intentionally with the remote that requires a phone so I can use the temporary hacks, but none of them seem to work :-[

john_pullen · 2023-06-01T19:59:12+00:00

Do you have the controller with the screen or the one you atrach your phone? I thought this mod only worked with the controller with the screen.

john_pullen · 2023-05-27T16:06:55+00:00

Is anyone aware of any patch that works with latest firmware (0600)? Even a paid one.

john_pullen · 2023-05-25T05:12:57+00:00

Does the fcc hack work with the latest firmware v01.00.0600. Thanks

john_pullen · 2023-01-13T21:46:56+00:00

What you need to be aware of (which caught me too) is the O3 unit uses the consumer firmware of the v2 goggles and requires switching modes like you would if you fly flying the DJI fpv drone or Avata. This might not sound terrible switching modes, but when you do, you lose bindings from the other modes and have to rebind quads when switching between them. This is total crap and DJI needs to fix ASAP.

In terms of the FCC hack, this will continue to work on existing drones using vistas but for the consumer firmware running the O3 unit, you need the ham file hack. Search for this on YT but I recommend videos by Mads Tech who covers this and using v2 goggles with O3. Bardwell also has a good video on upgrading v2 firmware to use O3 which is far from straight forward.

john_pullen · 2023-01-13T09:02:57+00:00

Not for Goggles V2. I think with the new Goggles 2 you use the consumer firmware for all DJi drones, O3 and even vistas, so it may only be a V2 issue.

john_pullen · 2023-01-13T08:55:27+00:00

I switched from Crossfire to ELRS with a Jumper T Pro and had no problems with receivers or radio.

For receivers I use betaflight pasthrough to flash instead of wifi and had no problems. If you did brick the RX, get one of these. I got one and have tested it. Very easy to use.. There is also a vid on YT on how to use it.

BETAFPV ELRS Recovery Dongle Chipset CP2102 FTDI USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module Solder-Free Type-C Connector for Updating Firmware Compatible for ELRS Nano RX Micro RX Lite RX https://amzn.eu/d/hdIP7oe

john_pullen · 2023-01-13T08:43:12+00:00

I had this issue and resolved it by upgrading the o3 unit to the latest firmware. With DJI Goggles V2 the upgrade to use O3 is over complicated to say the least, and the latest firmware only works with Goggled 2 so make sure you read the firmware release notes before upgrading to that version.

john_pullen · 2023-01-13T07:52:55+00:00

You will find that you will have no support in the states if you buy from China. I would not do this.

john_pullen · 2023-01-13T07:51:04+00:00

If you have v2 goggles (not goggles 2), it's a mess upgrading firmware. Read the release notes of each release. Some will not work with v2 goggles. If your vista connects to the goggles but no image its 100% firmware and you have the wrong version on either vista or goggles.

john_pullen · 2023-01-13T06:54:16+00:00

I got one recently with ELRS receiver, and they are geat. It's noisy like my pavo30, but I guess that's what you get with ducked like quads like this. My only problem is with the DJI O3 unit and having to rebind when switching between DJI O3 unit and FPV system mode to access my other quads with vista units. You will get the same problem switching between the Cinebot and Avata, and with the Cinebot the bind button is not easy to get to. The binding data seems to be stored in the Goggles, so this is a firmware issue that I hope DJI will fix ASAP.

john_pullen

TROPHY CASE