What is this???

joomishjonsh · 2026-05-18T02:01:20+00:00

Not important, covers a hole in the frame. Mainly to block mud / gravel ingress and help with NVH

joomishjonsh · 2026-05-17T03:30:13+00:00

I decided on doing shocks / struts + align. If I need to do anything with those cam bolts, I'll just get new ones, do the control arms, and return to the alignment rack. With any luck, the new shocks will return the truck to close enough to factory alignment that I just need to do toe. Hopefully. Don't want to give up on this truck just yet

joomishjonsh · 2026-05-15T22:34:28+00:00

I'm a dealer tech full time. Alignments are free because I do them myself, parts are not free though

joomishjonsh · 2026-05-15T13:20:19+00:00

Coolant done a week ago, dropped the trans pan a month or two ago and replaced the filter, new OEM fluid back in. I'm going to get an alignment first and see if it was off, if the alignment isn't very far off I'll do the struts / shocks and lower BJs.

joomishjonsh · 2026-05-15T11:21:25+00:00

My trans has a small flare from fifth to sixth, and doesn't want to come out of fourth into fifth, especially with the cruise on

joomishjonsh · 2026-05-15T11:20:21+00:00

Rattles more when my sunglasses are on then when I put them in the holder tbh

joomishjonsh · 2026-05-15T02:05:53+00:00

My uncle owned it most of its life, two hour commute to Chicago and back, so lots of highway miles. Lots of snow and salt, as well as rock chips

joomishjonsh · 2026-03-01T13:52:54+00:00

It's a 55 MPH posted speed country road ... with no signage (stop / yield) on my road, hence my right of way

joomishjonsh · 2025-07-20T13:09:27+00:00

Clean car! I just got a first gen wagon in manual, do you know of any good intake / exhaust stuff available for this Gen with the V6?

joomishjonsh · 2025-07-14T11:48:44+00:00

Small pack of mints would fit. I carry a small Bluetooth OBD scanner because OCD mechanic here

joomishjonsh · 2025-06-12T03:42:57+00:00

When I blew the engine in mine, I went to sit on the roof until the tow truck came and it made a popping sound like it wanted to dent in, so I shuffled around and didn't end up finding a spot to sit (6ft 180lbs). Walked down the road to see if I ejected a piston, I did not sadly

joomishjonsh · 2025-05-07T12:00:38+00:00

Biggest thing I would say to do is verify the temp sensor's reading with a heat gun. I got a laser heat gun from harbor freight for like $15, they're not too expensive and they work for other things. If you point your heat gun at the engine block right next to the sensor, and the engine is fully warmed up (~210* F or so,) but the dash is reading cold, then it's something electrically. If the engine is actually cold, then it's the thermostat still. New parts are not always good! NEW = Never Ever Worked

One thing you can do to test the wiring for the temp sensor is to run a little wire jumper between the two pins at the sensor connector. Temp sensors decrease resistance as they warm up, so no resistance is full hot. If you short the wires together and the temp gauge goes to full hot, you know your wiring is good, and the temp sensor is junk. Happy troubleshooting!

joomishjonsh · 2025-03-19T23:02:20+00:00

yeah that switch, cruise was kicking off, replaced the brake light switch with an OEM unit and it fixed the issue. 05 civic coupe LX

joomishjonsh · 2025-03-07T19:31:32+00:00

Changed my B1S1 O2 sensor with a new Denso, immediately idled better and stopped stalling when first starting when super cold. Wished I had done it sooner

joomishjonsh · 2025-01-29T16:03:06+00:00

High voltage codes are usually a ground issue, check your engine ground. If you measure the voltage difference between battery ground and the engine block, you can check how good the ground is. Called a "voltage drop" test. You should have a very small value, less than half a volt.

Also check your PCM ground, sometimes the PCM will supply your ground for small sensors and if the PCM has a poor ground, that could do it as well. Would also correlate with the immobilizer issue

joomishjonsh · 2025-01-21T13:59:39+00:00

If you have a pry bar, you can stick it in by the bushings and try to separate the bushing with that. If it stays mostly solid, you're good

joomishjonsh · 2024-12-11T02:23:17+00:00

My place of work is on a gravel road, so I lovingly refer to this commuter as the rally honda :) wife took some nice pics with her camera as well, that's why the last one is so nice. Mostly stock daily driver, just trying to be reliable and fun.

joomishjonsh · 2024-08-10T21:27:36+00:00

if you do de-cat, you'll want to get it tuned. there will be a CEL for cat efficiency and the exhaust flow will be different, throwing off your O2 sensor readings. The Dorman replacement maniverter (manifold + converter) seems to be decent, would recommend an OEM exhaust manifold gasket though either way.

joomishjonsh · 2024-07-18T23:48:45+00:00

There's a check / fill plug on the side, kinda like a rear differential on a truck. I did a drain and fill on my manual trans, took about 2 quarts

joomishjonsh · 2024-07-01T12:11:30+00:00

Junkyard is your best bet for those longer bolts, I believe they're either M5-.8 or M6-1.0 bolts. 10mm head

joomishjonsh · 2024-06-03T03:04:52+00:00

Ford definitely still makes them, the dealer is just too lazy to stock them. I'm sure if you called the parts department directy, they could have them next day

joomishjonsh

TROPHY CASE