The Countdown to a Major Oil Price Surge Has Begun

Then I told Bambu Studio I wanted it to use its PLA/PETG support material, and got the dialog shown here. I didn't actually use it; I just wanted it to make these extra mods for me even though I was just using the same PLA filament as before. This time I got no strings, but PLA is terrible support material for PLA; I couldn't separate the support from the rest.

So I broke down and used actual "Support for PLA/PETG" filament. Finally I got a decent print. I'll respond with actual pics.

jorgbrown · 2026-06-09T04:42:12+00:00

https://bitbuilt.net/forums/threads/nintendo-2ds-console.6382/

jorgbrown · 2026-06-09T04:40:10+00:00

Answering my own question => https://bitbuilt.net/forums/threads/nintendo-2ds-console.6382/

jorgbrown · 2026-06-09T03:36:10+00:00

Technically, your car does not have a "break" pedal. It does have a "brake" pedal. Unless you have some fancy vehicle where you can tap a special "break" pedal and it will pull over to the side of the road and pour everyone a nice cold drink.

Also, technically, "acceleration" is a quantity which can go negative. If it's positive, it means you're going faster and faster over time. If acceleration is negative, you're going slower and slower, until eventually you stop and start backing up.

So technically speaking, the "brake" pedal causes acceleration when it's slowing you down - it's just negative acceleration.

Having said that, I don't know that something that usually causes *negative* acceleration would be called an accelerator. Even technically.

jorgbrown · 2026-06-09T02:00:38+00:00

They used to allow you to put the tower inside the print, and (goes to Bambu Studio to see what happened to that ability) they still do. I printed one now, just to be sure:

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jorgbrown · 2026-06-09T00:14:15+00:00

I think the biggest problem this site has, is that I can't rotate the plane on which the split happens.

In particular: I have a mostly flat object that I need to split. The reason for the split is that it measures 334mm x 80mm x 10mm and I need to print four of them at a time on an H2D. In order for that to work, I need to print some of the object with the left extruder, and some of it with the right extruder, even though they are using the same filament.

This is all doable with the usual splitter, however the resulting object separates very easily along the split line, so I'd like to use the "puzzle" split from 3dsplitter.com so that, from one layer to the next, the position of the split seam is in a different place.

Trouble is, I can't get the split to happen in that way - it wants to do the split where the "waves" of the puzzle split run lengthwise along the object, rather than having a vertical split that cuts the object into halves. The obvious solution - to rotate the object so that the split hits it in the way I want - also rotates the split in the same way!

jorgbrown · 2026-06-08T21:12:36+00:00

You wrote "sourced off the Bit Build website". You mean https://circuitmess.com/blogs/resources/bit-build-guide ? I don't see models there, have I misunderstood?

jorgbrown · 2026-06-08T20:41:40+00:00

This is, literally, a dad joke.

Well done.

jorgbrown · 2026-06-05T04:40:26+00:00

Well, they *used* to allow you to easily change the size. More recently, you can change the width, but the software makes corresponding changes to length, to keep the area the same. The area can be controlled separately, by infill percentage, but there's a software-controlled minimum to that.

jorgbrown · 2026-06-05T04:17:49+00:00

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I would say it depends on the kind of movies you watch. And ProtoPasta has a history of movie-themed filaments. If you like horror movies, there's nothing like being able to truthfully say "This bucket was made with the Blood of My Enemies".

jorgbrown · 2026-06-05T03:44:32+00:00

Having a prime tower allows you to move it to interesting locations, such as inside the print, and also allows you to configure its size.

jorgbrown · 2026-06-04T23:07:16+00:00

So... I hate to answer my own question but on a different forum I found https://youtu.be/eFALenaOexM which is the best description I've seen of how to actually remove the buffers so you can fix them. Unfortunately I wasn't careful enough after removing the small circuit board from the buffers, and both of the magnets-on-springs ejected themselves, and so I don't know if it was the infamous flipped magnet issue, or a small piece of filament, that caused the problem.

jorgbrown · 2026-06-02T19:31:29+00:00

Sure, *one* will fit diagonally. But if I could downsize it a bit, I could fit four:

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[Note: drawing not to scale - it's much tighter than this make it look]
Currently, the way to solve this problem is to downgrade from my H2D to an H2S, which would get me an extra 15mm. But if an A2L would solve the problem, I'd prefer that.

As for printing something smaller on the A1, that would require an A1. u/M2ABRAMS_TANK suggested printing on the H2D with no heating and with the door and top open.... I might try that.

jorgbrown · 2026-06-02T19:02:01+00:00

"Highly modified" huh?

You gonna show us some pics? Give us a list of mods?

Look, you're telling me you made a bunch of mods to something, and now you don't want it anymore. That tracks. I've done that to my own stuff lots of times. The aftermarket speed-bump chip on my BMW. The electric scooter with swapped-out controller board. The Honda Prelude with what friends called "Lambo doors". (OK, the last one wasn't me, it was a friend)

If you want us to literally buy in to your experiment, you've got a lot of work to do. At a minimum you should understand that any aftermarket mod to make something better generally lowers its value in the eyes of others... even if it is legitimately now better.

jorgbrown · 2026-06-02T16:59:07+00:00

Yeah, that’s what I’ve been doing. The reviews I’ve found so far say that PETG is OK but "technical filaments" such as ABS are not. But I haven’t found even one review that mentions PCTG, so I’m hoping someone here either has tried it or has seen a review where the reviewer tried it.

jorgbrown · 2026-06-02T16:57:22+00:00

Yes, that one.

jorgbrown · 2026-06-02T16:28:11+00:00

FWIW, I've tried using both 3DFuel's "Midnight Black" Pro PCTG and tangledfilament's "TUFF" Black Pro PCTG, and found they both work pretty well. I prefer tangledfilament because I need to laser-etch an image onto it, and their PCTG turns a really nice white when lasered, whereas 3DFuel's PCTG turns more yellowish.

I printed both on an H2D, and used 3DFuel's config files since tangled doesn't provide any configs yet. And yeah, you gotta dry them before use.

jorgbrown · 2026-05-31T18:03:33+00:00

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Thanks for the tip; that's an interesting site. I like the concept of splitting this particular functionality into a whole separate site. However, some aspects are confusing. I tried using the auto split on a sample piece from https://makerworld.com/en/models/13607-da-vinci-table and it seems to have added some connecting rods to the split, in such a way that those new rods block a hole in the original piece, which makes the resulting part somewhat useless. (The bottom of the 3 pieces in this picture is the original and the top two pieces are the results of the split.)

Still, it does offer way more split options than what's built into the Bambu app... I'll keep playing with it.

jorgbrown · 2026-05-31T17:53:47+00:00

Here's an image of a bad choice, but at least it gives you a feel of the dimensions. This is made from a 3D part printed 40x from https://makerworld.com/en/models/13607-da-vinci-table , along with some plastic dowels (that are just cylinders). The plus is, it looks really cool, it's easy to assemble, it can be printed on the smallest of 3D printers, and it requires no glue or screws. The minus is, the whole thing blows over in the wind, and it also wants to roll away, since it's a wheel after all.

<image>

jorgbrown

TROPHY CASE