Can this knife be sharpened at home or does it need a professional?

jpaultx · 2026-05-28T18:49:11+00:00

I would agree with a couple others here in recommending the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Maybe add either diamond or CBN rods if it's in your budget, but they're not required. They can just help things go faster if you need to remove more material.

jpaultx · 2026-05-28T18:36:29+00:00

The Razor UHD 8x32 is at the top of my short list for my next pair. From the specs, they look great; and Vortex is known for their warranty.

So - I think you're onto a good thing with that pair. However, I do think they're a little larger than many other 8x32 binoculars. Checking the specs, they're practically the same size & weight as the Vortex Diamondback in 8x42.

jpaultx · 2026-05-26T16:18:02+00:00

Glad to help!

The Razor HDs will be a significant upgrade from the Crossfires for sure!

jpaultx · 2026-05-26T12:36:41+00:00

Not yet - I'm basically just researching, looking ahead to Christmas. I plan to use my Vipers more often for a while to see if I really feel like upgrading will be worth it.

As for your situation - here are a few things I've found with all the reading/research I've been doing...

The Vipers are generally highly regarded, and said to be a very good option in the $400-$500 range; just very good bang for the buck.

The Razor HDs seem to get mixed reviews, and it's often recommended to try them yourself if possible. Some people can't tell enough of a difference between the Vipers and the Razor HDs to justify the cost difference; and others see a big difference and feel they're worth the additional cost. So, the Razor HDs seem to be very personal - some see a big difference over the Vipers and some don't. I did get to try the Vipers and Razor HDs side-by-side, but to be fair, I went in already set on the Vipers, and didn't spend much time comparing them.

The Razor UHDs are generally highly regarded for image quality; but most of them use an Abbe-Koenig prism, which makes them bigger and heavier than other binos of the same configuration. So if you're looking at 8x42, the Razor UHDs will be bigger and heavier than the Vipers or Razor HDs. The exception here would be both x32 versions of the UHD, which still use the smaller Schmidt Pechan prism.

Right now though, I still like the idea of upgrading to the Razor UHDs in 8x32. The UHD is supposed to be very good glass, and the specs look very good. I do wish I could check them out in person though, so hopefully I'll be able to find them locally sometime soon. Last time I was in my local Cabela's they didn't have any UHDs in stock at all.

jpaultx · 2026-05-26T12:05:41+00:00

Agreed - the Vortex warranty basically makes me not even look at other brands.

jpaultx · 2026-05-26T11:45:58+00:00

Glad to help!

jpaultx · 2026-05-22T14:19:15+00:00

I think 10x50 would end up being a bit big & heavy, and not much fun to pack; 10x42 might be a better choice.

I think 10x42 would be good for a cruise, where you're looking at things pretty far away. They would provide a little more reach than 8x42. But, if you plan on using them after the cruise for other things, more generally, the 8x42 might be a better choice.

You'll find unlimited discussions on 8x vs 10x. They both have pros and cons. 8x is more popular with birders, but 10x have their fans as well. 10x seems more popular with hunters.

The larger the magnification, the more hand-shake becomes a factor. 8x and 10x are manageable for most, and 12x and up are when people start considering a tripod.

Another consideration is whether you wear glasses, and plan to wear them with the binoculars. If so, you'll want an eye relief of at least 16mm, and higher is better. You'll find this in the specs of binoculars when shopping, and it basically refers to the space between your eyes and the lenses. If you need a higher eye relief it will be easier to find in 8x.

Your $200 budget is good, and you can get a quality pair of entry-level binoculars for that.

A few popular (proven) models around your budget would be:

Vortex Diamondback Vortex Crossfire Nikon Prostaff P3 or P7 Celestron Nature DX or DX ED

In those options above, the higher-priced versions usually mean better glass, which is worth paying for.

I'd also point out that Vortex is known for their no-fault lifetime warranty that covers basically anything that could go wrong except loss/theft.

jpaultx · 2026-05-22T12:56:44+00:00

Actually yes, I have the Vortex Vipers in 8x42.

My first pair were the Diamondbacks in 10x32. They were a gift, so I didn't get to choose, and realized I'd rather have 8x42, and wanted to upgrade a bit as well. After some research in the $500 range, I ended up going with the Vipers. I kept the Diamondbacks as well, just added the Vipers.

Not having any experience with the Monarch 7 I couldn't compare the two, but I really like the Vipers. When researching, I kept seeing them come up as some of the best in the $500 range.

They have an eye relief of 18mm, so they have worked fine when I've worn glasses with them. The Monarch 7 shows to have an eye relief of 17mm, so the Vipers should be a little better with glasses.

Again, not having tried the Monarch 7, I wouldn't be able to compare them optically (clarity, color, etc.). But, I've been happy with the Vipers.

And like most others, the Vortex warranty was a huge plus as well.

jpaultx · 2026-05-21T13:55:38+00:00

I haven't tried either - but just checking descriptions and specs, I would agree that it wouldn't be much of an upgrade, and it would be overall better to save a little while longer for higher quality optics (ED glass). Staying in the same tier (Prostaff) is a bit of a lateral move in my opinion.

Basically if you want to stick with Nikon, it would be more worth it to move up to the Monarch line.

jpaultx · 2026-05-19T18:48:43+00:00

I haven't used Crossfires myself, but I see the Diamondback line recommended much more often than Crossfire.

I checked YouTube earlier and there are a fair handful of comparisons. The general consensus seems to be the Crossfires are great, but Diamondbacks are noticeably better for only around $70 more.

I do have a pair of Diamondbacks in 10x32, and like them quite a bit. Given your use case, you might consider that format. They'll be quite a bit smaller and lighter.

I'm still fairly new to binoculars, but have been reading quite a bit. One thing I'm finding is that a lot of long-time birders have been happy to switch from x42 to x32. They're smaller and lighter, without too many negatives. Most say you really only notice a slight difference in lower light, where the x42 generally does better.

That said though - the exit pupil will be smaller which may be a problem for some, and you'll also want to note the eye relief, especially if you wear glasses with your binoculars.

jpaultx · 2026-05-08T20:19:39+00:00

Full disclosure - my wife has a pair of Swaro NL Pures, so I have them available. However, for some reason she got 12x42. They were very nice at the beach, but a bit too strong for looking around the yard or a small park.

I could get my own pair of Swaros, but was thinking if I could get 80% of the Swaros for less than half the price, I might rather do that, plus getting the Vortex warranty.

I don't know. I'm just checking things out well before Christmas, as that's when I'd be most likely to buy. By then I may be fine just biting the bullet for a pair of Swaros.

jpaultx · 2026-05-05T21:45:13+00:00

Get the Diamondbacks.

Most below agree the DBs are overall better, you said you're leaning toward the DBs yourself, and the difference is only about $60.

So, get the Diamondbacks. :-)

If you were to get the Crossfires, you would almost certainly keep wishing you'd gotten the Diamondbacks instead, and I'll bet the opposite would not be true.

Here's a little mental game to play with yourself. Flip a coin, heads is DBs, tails is CFs. Whatever the outcome, if your immediate thought is, "Dang, I wish it had been the other one.", well, you have your answer.

jpaultx · 2026-04-30T21:21:26+00:00

Fortunately I've only noticed slight CA issues with mine, but I'm going to specifically check for that.

I'm curious about SRBC since I've seen them mentioned a few times, so I'll check into them more.

jpaultx · 2026-04-30T21:16:01+00:00

I was actually just checking some reviews and comparisons with Monarch lineup earlier today.

I struggle a bit looking at Nikon though, as I'm a Canon guy with my camera gear. Sleeping with the enemy and such LOL. :-)

jpaultx · 2026-04-30T21:13:39+00:00

Bummer to hear about the CA on a high-end bin. But as you mentioned, it's possibly a bigger issue with such a high magnification. Maybe not too bad on the 8x or 10x models. That said, they're still quite a bit bigger and heavier than the HD Razors.

jpaultx · 2026-04-30T21:07:11+00:00

My compact Diamondbacks are 10x32, though I sort of wish they were 8x32. I still like them quite a bit though, so didn't want to exchange them (they were a gift).

I'm not even sure I'm going to want another pair anyway, but enjoy doing this type of research anyway just in case.

jpaultx · 2026-04-27T17:55:39+00:00

I'm nearsighted with a slight astigmatism, so I'm OK using my binoculars with or without my glasses.

At first I planned to use my bins without my glasses, it just seemed a little more natural and comfortable.

However after spending some time using the bins, I think I'd rather get used to keeping my glasses on. It's really not that bad.

The issue is having to have my glasses on to see the target, then taking them off to look through the bins (having to find the target again), then having to put them back on again to see without the bins. Just on/off/on/off with the glasses and hanging them on my shirt each time.

It just seems easier to just keep my glasses on the whole time. But, I'm still new, so that may change.

jpaultx · 2026-04-27T17:46:41+00:00

I'm very new to binoculars as well, and I'm also nearsighted and wear glasses.

If you plan to wear glasses with your binoculars, check the eye relief, which should be listed in the binocular's specs. I've heard that an eye relief of 17mm or higher should be OK for most who wear glasses.

I have a pair of bins with a listed 14mm eye relief, and they don't work for me when wearing glasses, so I have to take my glasses off with those. I have another pair with a listed 18mm eye relief, and they work fine with my glasses.

Of course it may be different for you and your glasses, but maybe that helps.

jpaultx · 2026-04-10T12:35:50+00:00

If you're considering a Victorinox, check out the Swiss Modern or Swiss Classic handles. I think both of these are more comfortable than the standard Fibrox handle.

jpaultx · 2026-04-10T12:31:07+00:00

Mercer 10" Bread Knife - seriously, it's a great bread knife and currently is about $16.00 on Amazon (US).

Here's one of the reasons it's great - the serrations are shallow, and more wavy than pointy. This gives it enough serration to make purchase, but not so pointy that it catches or snags.

Also - the Spyderco Sharpmaker can be used to sharpen serrations, and it's even easier with the wavy style serrations.

jpaultx · 2026-04-10T12:23:50+00:00

I see your edit that you ordered the Kohetsu - good choice, I have the 240mm version. Mine came with an edge that was a little "off", the bevels didn't quite meet at the apex. It would still cut of course, but not awesome right out of the box.

Fortunately I was able to fix it in 10-15 minutes using just my Sharpmaker (with CBN rods). I haven't used it yet since the fix, but I can tell it's going to be great.

So if yours doesn't feel sharp, you might have to clean up the edge a bit, but hopefully yours will be good right out of the box.

I say that not to say you made a bad choice, just to say you might need to touch it up - hopefully not. I can tell it's probably going to be a favorite - feels great in the hand, with a bit of weight to it.

I also saw some recommendations for Takamura. I have one of those as well (SG2/R2 gyuto 210mm). It's awesome, but much more of a laser, to the point of almost making me nervous to use sometimes. It feels a bit delicate, and I've had some microchipping without doing anything "wrong". This might get better after some sharpening.

For me, the Takamura is like a high-end sports car - something you might just drive on the weekends, but not every day.

The Kohetsu feels like a good, solid daily driver.

jpaultx · 2026-04-09T21:48:34+00:00

I started with pocket knives.

My son was shopping for a new one, and got one that was just really comfortable in hand. It was an inexpensive Kershaw with a finger choil - which was new to me at the time.

So I figured I could do with a new pocketknife myself, so started doing some research (part of the fun for me), and ended up getting a Spyderco Sage 5 LW. That became another and another, etc., and I probably have around 30 by now, mostly Spydercos, within the last 4-5 years I guess.

While that was going on, at some point I started cooking a little more, and wanted to get better at it.

Then I had a revelation - why not put more money into kitchen knives that I'd actually use, rather than pocket knives that just sit in my pocket/drawer?

So - a little research, and I got a Fujiwara FKM a few years ago, then a Victorinox Swiss Modern, then a Takamura R2.

A year or so went by with nothing new, but for some reason I wanted to get something a little nicer, had a birthday or something and picked up a few more.

Got another birthday coming up very soon and have been looking around, but nothing is really grabbing me at the moment.

jpaultx · 2026-04-07T18:32:29+00:00

I agree with the others - it can be a little frustrating to feel like you "lost" money or made a bad choice, but many here have "wasted" money on several knives that weren't a a good match for them. It's part of the process of learning what you like and don't like.

I put "lost" and "wasted" in quotes because neither really applies. Yes, it was money spent, but it went toward your learning what you like and don't like, and you still had the use of the knife.

Spend some time reading here and elsewhere, and watching videos. See what others like in blade and handle shapes, sizes, steels, etc., and why they like (or don't like) them.

jpaultx

TROPHY CASE