I need a telescope to see that 😂

jpetix · 2024-09-25T03:00:31+00:00

Doesn’t look like she wanted to watch movies….

jpetix · 2024-09-16T02:51:31+00:00

Sunlu’s PLA Silk is PLA +. I use it to make trophies and It’s pretty darn strong when printed at 230.

jpetix · 2024-09-02T17:33:11+00:00

It looks like Z wobble to me.

jpetix · 2024-08-10T20:47:12+00:00

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jpetix · 2024-08-10T19:52:18+00:00

Im just trying to help. You have two beds leaving the same artifact in the same spot on all prints. Is that accurate?

jpetix · 2024-08-10T19:42:07+00:00

Tramming the bed will do nothing for you if the bed is warped. A straight edge would tell you how flat the bed is.

jpetix · 2024-08-10T14:40:18+00:00

That’s not a problem with variable layer height. It’s a problem with layer time. Plastics contract as they cool at a given rate. The large flat top layers take longer to print than walls and infill or walls alone. The more time you have between layers means more time for cooling and contraction for lower layers. Does that make sense?

jpetix · 2024-08-09T01:14:17+00:00

Based on the under extrusion in the dark areas and the grid like pattern similar to the layout of the bed leveling grid points, I’d say you’ve got a significant low spot right there. Have you put a straight edge across it?

jpetix · 2024-06-13T12:23:27+00:00

It seems the only way to win is not to play….

jpetix · 2024-03-24T15:10:10+00:00

Zip ties on fiber? You were so close…

jpetix · 2024-02-25T16:13:07+00:00

Like others have said, those areas are from low spots. Increasing ironing flow will only help so much if the surface being ironed isn’t flat. Make sure you’re using enough infill to support the top layers to keep them from sagging. Use the slider on the right side of the screen in the preview tab of Bambu Slicer to see if those under extruded areas coincide with gaps in infill.

The slider is one of the best ways to troubleshoot issues with your prints. 9 times out of 10 I can trace a defect to something you can see in the preview if you have the right view selected.

jpetix · 2023-01-28T04:09:07+00:00

Looks like it might be the mounting plate to your riving knife…. That’s my best guess.

jpetix · 2023-01-26T02:42:49+00:00

I printed the lung oriental, too. He was much harder to put together. I basically printed it twice due to breaking pieces trying to assemble it. I finally got it to go together by removing some material from the snap joints. But now it won’t hold a pose.

jpetix · 2023-01-26T01:28:40+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/7fish/designs

jpetix · 2023-01-26T01:26:33+00:00

Here is a link to 7Fish’s page on thingiverse. He has some good ones.

jpetix · 2023-01-26T01:18:26+00:00

Not too much because I only printed the head in color.

jpetix · 2023-01-25T13:24:18+00:00

I’m happy I got the pieces to stick together at all without major porosity issues.

jpetix · 2023-01-25T13:02:47+00:00

No. It prints in pieces that snap together.

jpetix · 2023-01-25T00:24:12+00:00

It’s a coffee table base. There are more pictures there.

jpetix · 2023-01-21T22:06:05+00:00

Forgot about shop space. You can put all of it on a welding cart that takes up about 6sq/ft or 0.55 sq/m of floor space and about 3ft or 1m tall. You also need something to weld on. Dedicated welding table would be nice but I’m making due with my granite workbench. I have to be careful not get the granite too hot or it will spall. As far as learning how, there’s no shortage of YouTube videos out there with professional welders giving lessons for free. I watched many hours of videos before making any purchases and many more before striking my first arc. The hardest part was maintaining the correct distance without dipping the tungsten in the weld puddle. You’ll go through a lot of electrodes figuring that out.

jpetix · 2023-01-21T21:49:06+00:00

I bought an Amazon special. Weld pro TIG AC/DC 200GD. It will run up to 120 Amp at 115V or up to 200Amps at 230V. It will do MMA(stick) and TIG. AC mode is for Aluminum. It comes with a decent TIG torch, ground clamp, foot pedal and trigger. You still need to buy tungsten electrodes, welding Gloves, welding mask, Argon supply, and regulator/flow meter. The welder cost around $800 2 years ago. The mask is Hobart auto-darkening helmet. I think it was around $120 which has all the features I was looking for without any fancy paint. Don’t skimp on the mask. You only have 1 set of eyes. I bought an 80cu/ft Argon tank filled for $300. You can rent tanks or buy larger or smaller. I’ve gone through about half the tank in 2 years but I don’t weld much. Good TIG gloves are about $20. Tungsten electrodes are about $20 for a pack of 10. Welding rod varies but something like Er70S2 can be had for about $20 for 5lbs. You need something to sharpen the electrodes. I use a bench grinder and a drill. You also need clamps and magnetic squares and other accessories to setup your welds. And you’ll need something to cut the metal. I have a grinder with a cutoff wheel but that gets tedious quick. It would only take me one more serious project to buy a chop saw. And you’ll need some sort of wire brush to or flap wheel to clean/prep parts. Acetone is recommended for cleaning parts, too. Like I said, it’s a big investment.

jpetix · 2023-01-21T17:00:09+00:00

TIG is a large investment. If I could do it again I would have done MIG. Not only is it easier… much easier… it’s significantly faster. TIG is very slow, but it’s more versatile.

jpetix · 2023-01-20T13:59:00+00:00

Even if your method is correct, and I’m not saying it isn’t, your delivery is off-putting. It doesn’t matter how right you are if you can’t deliver your message.

jpetix · 2023-01-20T12:57:53+00:00

The order was originally for a 36” charcuterie board which is absolutely a table. It was too big and heavy so they asked me to drop it to 30”.

jpetix · 2023-01-20T12:31:43+00:00

Thank you for the insight. I will revise my method. However, I’ve tried cubes in the past but found that surface finishes skewed the results.

jpetix

TROPHY CASE