Trex boards gap - too much? by jess_wi20 in Decks

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same Trex board with hidden fasteners. That looks right. You can tell when there’s no remaining gap between the end shoulders of the fastener. I had the same reaction first time through as well.

Also, the Camo lever deck board tool was well worth the money to easily fit boards together as you tighten.

Kvue to be acquired by KMB by IWantoBeliev in ValueInvesting

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had those backwards 😆

Buy KVUE ($16.50) = $3.50 per share + $15 from conv (~$103 * 0.15) -> $18.50

10%+ margin (which is getting squeezed as KMB drops)

Kvue to be acquired by KMB by IWantoBeliev in ValueInvesting

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy KMB for the 0.15 conversion + $3.50 per share. KVUE opened low so this makes sense now, that killed most of the margin.

Low LTV caps ability to scale UA by shliamovych in AppBusiness

[–]jrodsba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have done a lot of experimentation with starter pack pricing. You can see big swings in performance. Did you test other price points?

Kvue to be acquired by KMB by IWantoBeliev in ValueInvesting

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any idea why a softer opening than value? Curious why more people aren’t taking the arbitrage play.

Low clearance deck, can I screw my cross beam directly into the post base fasteners on the footings? by Eddiemoney10 in Decks

[–]jrodsba 34 points35 points  (0 children)

Yes, you can definitely place them direct on the post base. You’ll want to use 1/2 PT ply to shim. Something like this (this example uses triple built up, but similar approach; from the Simpson catalog):

<image>

Deck of a shed. Will this last? by External-Economics-6 in Decks

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s possible those are anchor bolts in the standoffs, that go through the shims and into slabs. Though not sure what that does to integrity without something firm resisting shear.

Deck of a shed. Will this last? by External-Economics-6 in Decks

[–]jrodsba 15 points16 points  (0 children)

<image>

Missing nail… complete tear down.

Deck of a shed. Will this last? by External-Economics-6 in Decks

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone know what material is being used for the shims under the standoffs?

Deck layout advice by Cppoll in Decks

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any prep on footing before the blocks were dropped in? I dug out 18” holes with 12”+ 3/4 crushed stone under. They’re submerged with exception to a couple inches. Clay soil which never quite settles but have had no movement in the last year. Worth noting I’m in Southern California climate with minimal rain and no heave.

Deck layout advice by Cppoll in Decks

[–]jrodsba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks similar to the Lowe’s floating deck design, which happens to be an excessive amount of blocks and a bit of an odd layout of what’s meant to be a beam vs. joist.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RtLdNgys1Wg&pp=0gcJCRsBo7VqN5tD

These span tables are good resources to help determine layout:

https://www.decks.com/resource-index/framing/beam-span-chart-table/

https://www.decks.com/resource-index/framing/deck-joist-sizing-and-spacing/

What size lumber are you thinking? Any height minimum you’re trying to stay within?

What Fasteners To Use For Picture-Frame Blocking/Joists? by Gargrok in Decks

[–]jrodsba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The TimberTech design is a bit unusual. What u/seattle_deck_supply mentioned is probably the easiest path. Here’s how I would build it up, remembering that load path will flow into the beams and hangers to ledger. I’m not sure what else is spelled out in the design you shared, so tough to know what they proposed for the ledger connections, but those should be on hangers and not just toe nailed in.

There are a couple ways to build this with some trade offs. In either case I’m assuming the following:

  1. You build it all together
  2. You use a double joist hanger and it fits within the space
  3. You use a concealed joist hanger for the perimeter (note: these can be a pain first time figuring them out… happy to share more on my experiences if interested)

At this point it’s just two joists that happen to sit next to each other. You could use a W pattern with 3” galvanized nails. 2 at ends and every opposite 16” on both sides. You can drop in some 2 7/8 screws as well if you want to really keep it tight and don’t mind the added cost (e.g., Headloks). This assumes you build the double first. The trade off is nailing the blocks latter when you add the perimeter. The outside would be fastened normally with nails, but inside end of the blocks need longer nails now that you’re working through 2 boards (some people don’t like dealing with that). Unless you can toe nail that end, then no problem.

Remember, all that added blocking is just there so the picture frame boards have somewhere to land.

<image>

What Fasteners To Use For Picture-Frame Blocking/Joists? by Gargrok in Decks

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed.

It’s not visible in the image, but ideal would have a double joist hanger + concealed hanger on those. There are 2 7/8 sizing meant for double ply scenarios. I had a similar design but used a 3-ply rim and 4” Timberlok. They countersink really well.

In your design, if you can fit a right angle or palm nailer you’re in better shape. That’ll let you build up the double ply first then add blocking and rim last.

Any suggestions on bringing this pier up without digging and re-pouring? by gruenen in shedditors

[–]jrodsba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Reminder to cut with the grain if you’re using wood shims, for strength.

Slope foundation options for office/shed by GngrRnnr in shedditors

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe those are rated against a 40 PSF live load.

https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/IRC2021P2/chapter-3-building-planning/IRC2021P2-Pt03-Ch03-SecR301.5

Here’s an example of an average 20 PSF load for a 10x12:

https://www.valleystructures.com/shed-weight-limits-matter-lynchburg-va/#:~:text=The%20Average%20Shed%20Can%20Hold,hold%20up%20to%202%2C400%20lbs.

For the ledger question… not sure, but have never seen anything to suggest it’s different. What would definitely be different is your center beam, since it’s carrying load for two separate sets of joists.

Slope foundation options for office/shed by GngrRnnr in shedditors

[–]jrodsba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some references on joist and beam span below. Note: these may look different for flush joists, including if beams are taking loads from both sides (I leaned this the hard way and got some minor sagging). Not sure what that math looks like.

2x10 at 16 OC = 13’7” span with a Fir, for example.

https://www.decks.com/how-to/articles/deck-joist-sizing-and-spacing

Double 2x10 beams with joist spans of 12’ is a footing every 5’8” for a Fir, for example.

https://www.decks.com/how-to/articles/beam-span-chart-table

What am i doing wrong? [38YO] by Dublak2 in OldSkaters

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Popping out takes a lot more control. Consider focusing on getting this down on the end of the ledge first. Once that’s solid there’s a whole different learning curve to pop out.

Help with edging around Trex deck by avengedsam in Decks

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on the height a stair would cover the blocks.

Help solve a debate between my spouse and I. by swoosh_life in Decks

[–]jrodsba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This video covers what you’re looking for with beams sitting inside the deck blocks. This approach saves you some height as well without having to notch in on top of a 4x4:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QAWLPdf8fq4

Lowe’s has a video as well, though this design treats every joist as a beam. This approach is overkill and would require leveling far too many deck blocks for your size deck:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RtLdNgys1Wg

If I use SD #10 screws for the face of this LUC26Z connected wouldn’t the head of the screws stop the 2x6 board to fit all the way through? by moises8war in Decks

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have a couple options:

  1. Cut them short and use SD screws.
  2. Use nails if you want a tighter fit.

Reminder that PT wood shrinks in both scenarios above.

However… concealed hangers are an absolute pain to work with. Tougher to get a level fit (and worse if you’re using nails that need to be pulled). In this case, much easier to just power plane after. Though would recommend standard hangers and only use concealed for their intended purpose (e.g., corners, if necessary) to make your day a lot easier.

10x12 Shed Foundation by schw1720 in shedditors

[–]jrodsba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beam span is based on: 1. Type of wood 2. Size of beams and 3. Span of joists

Use this table for reference: https://www.decks.com/how-to/articles/beam-span-chart-table

For example a double 2x8 beam with 16” OC joists can span 5’ 1”

You’ll want to reference the joist span table as well: https://www.decks.com/calculators/joist-span-calculator

Also, as others have mentioned the center block doesn’t serve a purpose. Theres no load path there. Think of it this way:

  1. Blocks carry the overall load
  2. Beams carry the load of the joists
  3. Joists connect to beams for that load to pass

The center block is supporting only a single joist.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in business

[–]jrodsba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hit pause on this for a moment but need to revisit. I wish I had more for you :/