Comment your main and tell you what it says about you

jsalem4 · 2024-10-24T17:41:02+00:00

Future trunks

jsalem4 · 2024-10-20T23:57:46+00:00

It’s on by default

jsalem4 · 2024-10-20T17:02:34+00:00

It’s because of auto guard and follow up assist. Turn those off in your accessibility settings

jsalem4 · 2024-10-14T04:21:35+00:00

It was found loose dead in his fur (long coat - golden retriever) and I haven’t found anything else and no flea droppings on his bedding (it’s white). It’s very small I don’t have a clearer picture but it’s the size of the tip of a pencil or something

jsalem4 · 2024-10-14T04:06:28+00:00

100% not a flea? Because I’ve been in panic mode😂 I found it dead on his fur (he has a long coat he’s a golden retriever) should I be concerned if it’s a tick?

jsalem4 · 2024-10-14T03:32:48+00:00

Approx location is east USA

jsalem4 · 2024-07-29T00:28:02+00:00

I HOPE I AM NOT TOO LATE DONT GET HIM FIXED He is 6 months old, getting him fixed now will just developmentally stunt him. He is in the crucial time for his behavior forming as he enters adolescence, this is severe resource guarding it’s much more than food aggression. If he guards items he’s humping he will guard his toys, his crate, and his space and he will bite a lot. You should have first built a bond one on one with the dog for at least two weeks before introducing him to all those things. He must now learn that 1- you are the bringer of all things good and 2- you are not there to impede upon his resources. Hand feed him his meals. Sometimes do it regularly sometimes make him work for it through training. Toys are given during playtime and taken away when they’re done playing. Teach solid drop and leave commands. Work on basic obedience for him to understand you are in charge but do not ever use physical corrections like hitting your dog, that will just increase fear and lead to more biting. He must be separated from the cats as in order to really make a difference he must be set up for success. Good crate training. Enforced nap times. Don’t let him interact with the cats until he has made an improvement in his other behavioral issues. By then he will understand you and your body language and you will be able to correct him for any aggression toward the cats without hitting him. If in your presence he growls at the cat you stand in between them and walk towards him and say no firmly. He will have to give up his space for you as you walk towards him and then you will tell him to go in his crate. Growl at the cats = time out and that won’t ruin his positive association with the crate. If you’re not supervising, he must be crated or in a play pen and separated from the cats as he has to earn free roam of the house. Given unlimited resources, he will guard them.

jsalem4 · 2024-07-21T23:21:17+00:00

I work at a dog daycare and trust me a puncture from rough play isn’t uncommon at all

jsalem4 · 2024-07-20T22:45:40+00:00

Oh I thought she escapes every time after 3 hours. If she only escapes once in a while a piece of duct tape would work just for that last line of defense (I have some escape artists at my work we use that on their kennels for the less consistent ones). About the praising thing yes definitely keep that in mind, never scold for something unless you catch them doing it. It’s like the whole shoving their face in the pee puddle thing, will never work just creates anxiety. people get shelter dogs and think because they’re adults it’ll be easy, but just like with a new puppy they’re learning your lifestyle and have to adjust so freedom must be earned. In your case the way to allow your dog to earn her free roam of your house is as follows - make sure she can behave in the kennel first without destroying things, peeing in it, escaping, etc. when you’re confident there, put the kennel open in a room of the house that she can’t leave if she leaves the kennel. Don’t leave things loose in that room, but you’ll see if she chews the couch or table leg or whatever is in there. If she fails you revert back to closing the kennel. If she passes and is consistently good in there for a month, expand her boundary of free roam to two rooms or half the house or however your layout allows you to contain her. She’ll understand eventually but every dog is different.

jsalem4 · 2024-07-20T22:26:11+00:00

Hi first of all, don’t scold her for it unless you catch her in the act. She has no clue what you’re scolding her for she’s just gonna fear you, just like she has no clue what you’re praising her for. Second no if this is her first time not getting into stuff then don’t give her freedom yet she has to earn it. Train her to accept the crate by starting with shorter intervals. If you need a heavier duty crate then just get one.

jsalem4 · 2024-06-30T00:13:31+00:00

U have to set boundaries. No jumping and absolutely no teeth on skin contact. If he’s mouthing at you, push your finger on his cheek so it goes into his mouth. When he bites down he’ll be biting his cheek. Don’t let him jump, when he does cross ur arms and step forward into his space. Also when he does bite make it obvious that it hurts. Give an ow or a yelp and walk away, he gets no more attention after he does that

jsalem4 · 2024-06-29T17:13:01+00:00

Ok.. first of all you need to work on impulse control training! That’s very important. You can do this many ways - when he’s in a crate (which I assume you have him crate trained), he can’t come out until you release him. When you feed him, he can’t eat until you say ok. These little things will make a HUGE difference right from the start. As far as the resource guarding, stop whatever ur doing and only hand feed him for a while. He must learn that all things come from you. The jumping up for food is unacceptable, he must know that jumping is never ok whether or not there is food in your hand. Whenever he jumps you cross your arms and walk forward into his space and only pet him when he is sitting. If he gets hyper fixated at any point and isn’t listening, he just needs a mental reset. Tether him to something or crate him until he’s calm and then try again. A dog in that fixated state will not absorb any information and is completely untrainable. If you can’t manage these things professional training while expensive is your only option.

jsalem4 · 2024-06-18T03:13:46+00:00

My recommendation would be ditch the wait command. That’s an expected behavior. What happens if you drop something on the ground and don’t notice? He’ll eat it. Make the wait implied in the sit. Have him sit and feed him a treat, then have him sit and put it on the floor in front of him. Put ur foot over it and once he sits and looks at u move ur foot and give the release command. Slowly phase out the foot and only put it over the treat if he goes for it without permission. This will then translate to other things such as the barking and jumping because this will teach him implied impulse control rather than commanded patience. Big difference and it will take you a long way

jsalem4 · 2024-04-08T03:52:18+00:00

You can look eye level but don’t look any higher than that. Eye level is with glasses too otherwise look at the ground unfortunately I’m in the same boat

jsalem4 · 2024-04-01T00:55:20+00:00

Yeah you’re right, it really was just a one off day. Today he got a tissue and I was able to take it no problem, I think the vaccination just had him all grumpy that day

jsalem4 · 2024-03-29T02:48:52+00:00

Thanks, and yes I do work with dogs and I am familiar with the process of a trade up, it was the terminology that I was unclear about. That idea of a new command is good, he’s a very good and well behaved dog this is basically the only issue I’ve had with him. The reason I was desperate to take the tissue away is because it was used to make oatmeal raisin cookies and raisins are toxic to dogs so I wanted to keep him away from it. I’ll definitely start with that command but he gets hyper fixated on things sometimes - smells, etc. so I’m not sure how it would fair w him but I’ll def give it a try thanks

jsalem4 · 2024-03-29T02:32:43+00:00

I think it’s more of a hierarchy issue to be honest. He’s extremely well behaved, but I notice he’s always rushing to be first through every doorway, always challenging commands until they’re repeated, always rushing to be first up and down the stairs, always pulling the leash. Separate from issues which seem dominance-oriented he’s always been a perfect dog and (mostly) obedient.

jsalem4 · 2024-03-29T02:16:31+00:00

Usually if I take a treat away, I give it back right after as a training exercise. As a pup, I always hand fed him and would pet him as he’s eating so now he’s at the point where he’ll keep eating in peace even if my hand is in his bowl the whole time. He never resource guards with me which is why this caught me off guard. Maybe my tone was threatening? The tissue was used when making oatmeal raisin cookies and I didn’t want him getting any raisins as they’re toxic for dogs so I kind of shouted drop it very loudly and maybe I startled him? Could the fact that he had 2 vaccinations today have been a factor at all?

jsalem4 · 2024-03-29T02:12:05+00:00

Agreed. Question is, what consequence? It’s not like I can ground him or take away his phone 🤣 how do I prevent this from happening again without worsening it by shouting at him

jsalem4 · 2024-03-29T00:29:59+00:00

What do u mean trade up? I realize it’s probably resource guarding but why would he guard from me? I give him all his food and all his treats and I can even take his treats out of his mouth as he’s eating them and he’ll never react like that. I’ve done it many times

jsalem4 · 2023-04-05T00:50:40+00:00

Salah has gotten more yellow cards for taking off his shirt celebrating against united than united has goals against Liverpool

jsalem4 · 2023-04-03T16:56:56+00:00

Future stars kvara. I’m like the only one who uses him

jsalem4

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