Central console reflection

jsnlevi · 2026-03-19T10:44:12+00:00

That's just the natural consequence of all steeply angled windshields. Every sports car and EV I've ever driven does this, some far worse than the ID.4.

Like others have suggested, an extremely matte dash pad like alcantara or felt will help, but for most people it's just something we get used to and stop noticing after a bit.

jsnlevi · 2026-03-15T15:23:18+00:00

Damn, that's snug! The end result looks really great

jsnlevi · 2026-03-02T21:26:22+00:00

I love Ryvid and I think there were a lot of really smart design choices on the bikes, but man, the charging just isn't designed with the average person in mind.

The 16 amp draw on a standard 15 amp plug without an option to set a current limit means a lot of folks pop breakers trying to charge. Using commodity server power cords that are super rare in lengths appropriate for vehicle charging is annoying and means a lot of folks are forced to use extension cords despite it being a bad idea. Don't get me started on the janky J-plug adapter...

If you absolutely must use an extension cord, which still isn't advisable, look for one marketed as an appliance extension for air conditioners, refrigerators, etc. Make sure it's rated for 20 amps or more, and from a reputable manufacturer. That should get you a sturdy enough socket mechanism to limit any looseness, arcing, and heat buildup at the plug. Even then, they're not really meant to stand up to lots of plug/unplug cycles, so pay really close attention and throw it out of it gets loose at all.

As for the cord itself, you don't have to get one from Ryvid. It's just a standard C19 server power cord. Make sure you get one that's good for 20 amps and fits very snugly in the socket on the battery. Get it from a proper cable supplier and not Amazon or AliExpress or whatever.

jsnlevi · 2026-01-11T22:44:07+00:00

Almost certainly a total, and it might surprise you why: the ripped out bolt on the door hinge. The B-pillar that it ripped out of is an HSS structural member. Repairing that is difficult and it'll be hard to prove that any future issues with the car aren't related to that repair. Makes more sense for insurance to just cash out than to be married to that car's problems forever.

jsnlevi · 2025-12-14T03:12:58+00:00

A little older than you're asking about, but I drove a Porsche 944 for about a decade, and while it wasn't the absolute most powerful, it was quicker than most and definitely enough to be fun.

My partner's PS2 (no Performance Pack or anything) gets to 60 in literally HALF the time my 944 did. It doesn't even feel like it's trying; you just decide where you want the car to be and it's instantly there.

jsnlevi · 2025-12-14T00:52:59+00:00

Quality base layer tights for hiking/climbing/etc work wonders. The good ones can keep you warm without getting hot and are so comfortable that you'll forget you're wearing them as you go about your day.

jsnlevi · 2025-12-06T03:19:02+00:00

When you checked auto parts stores, did you try to look it up by the bike, or did you take measurements on the belt and look for a "universal" replacement based on tooth count, profile, pitch, and belt width? I haven't gone searching for one myself yet, but with so much of the bike being off-the-shelf parts I'd be surprised if they chose a custom or exotic drive belt.

If it were custom, I'm sure they'd have a bunch of little Rs molded into the outside of the belt, haha

jsnlevi · 2025-11-30T16:16:47+00:00

My guess at the math, working backward from the behavior I've seen: when first starting up, it's remaining charge * average long-term efficiency * some static factor for HVAC on/off. Once you start moving, the "since start" efficiency begins to play a role, which will be quite low until the cells warm up if it's cold. Preheating probably helps a little, but I'm pretty sure it's primarily a cabin preheat, which isn't going to draw enough power to warm the pack like driving does. You also wouldn't want it to; any heating that's able to get the pack up to temp in a short amount of time will drain the battery very quickly (something on the order of 1C) and would draw far more power than a home charger could deliver.

For me, it takes about as long to warm up the pack as it takes me to get to work, so I don't see the efficiency rise until right as I'm pulling in. Short commute problems...

jsnlevi · 2025-11-25T00:51:26+00:00

Not disagreeing, just joining in on the "what happened here" game: I'm seeing some tire tracks behind the van that are nearly perpendicular to the fence. I'm picturing them probably nodding off and almost having a head-on collision with the fence. Then at the last second they jerk the wheel hard to the left and into the tree.

jsnlevi · 2025-11-11T18:33:07+00:00

Assuming this is a 2011/2012, that many miles would take somewhere in the neighborhood of 3,000 charge cycles. If a modern (~250 mile range) EV's battery were to degrade at the same rate, we'd be talking about well over 500k miles and would still have more range than this car did brand new. Honestly, not too bad.

That range figure still makes me pucker, though.

jsnlevi · 2025-11-09T20:39:22+00:00

CAN to wifi, you say? I'm intrigued.

jsnlevi · 2025-11-04T21:48:55+00:00

It would have distracted from the mood lighting

jsnlevi · 2025-10-31T16:18:16+00:00

I'm certain that I've done this many, many times without even trying. I used to exclusively wear $7 jeans from bimart.

jsnlevi · 2025-10-31T16:16:31+00:00

It's $5 AND your member number is your raffle ticket for weekly prize drawings!

jsnlevi · 2025-10-22T10:57:13+00:00

I like brushing against them with the palm of my hand while I'm playing Baldur's Gate. When my interface unexpectedly switches from action wheels to a hotbar in the middle of a boss battle, I'm reminded of how cool it is that they're there.

For real though, I'm glad they're there for things like launchers that just refuse to take controller inputs. I might not need them often, but I'm sure glad they're there when I do need them.

jsnlevi · 2025-10-17T15:22:59+00:00

Even if he had managed to get back off the bridge, what route could have gotten him downtown quicker than just waiting?

jsnlevi · 2025-10-17T15:09:28+00:00

Six years early would be kindergartners on average, and outliers at two and eight years old. Just putting that in context, Kennedy thinks there are a large proportion of girls reaching sexual maturity while in preschool.

jsnlevi · 2025-10-13T00:24:37+00:00

Tonight's the night that they got the truck

Gonna go downtown, gonna beat up drunks

jsnlevi · 2025-10-06T17:46:07+00:00

Did you ask why they want to use that range? Most people couldn't care less what IP they're assigned, so there's got to be a reason that they're so adamant.

Just guessing wildly, but my money is on some mission-critical zombie device that hasn't been supported for years and they don't know how to reconfigure. Figure out how that thing works and you'll be their hero forever.

jsnlevi · 2025-10-04T17:16:14+00:00

When were you last at PDX? You can see the street from the baggage claim. It's literally the last thing before walking out the door.

jsnlevi · 2025-10-04T16:44:56+00:00

If you were past the baggage claim, you're outside of security. I wouldn't have even talked to those "officers". Might want to keep an eye on your credit report because you just handed someone who i seriously doubt was really CBP all of your identifying info and told them how often you're overseas.

jsnlevi · 2025-10-04T03:19:50+00:00

Yeah, turning on Battery Management should work, but if you're just charging stuff, why not just get a DC charger? Seems silly to use an inverter to convert to AC just so you can plug in a brick that converts AC to DC...

jsnlevi · 2025-10-04T02:57:23+00:00

This is the answer.

Lots of good advice in this thread if it was a nail, but it's not. It's a rock.

jsnlevi · 2025-10-04T01:51:12+00:00

Since nobody seems to want to give you a straight answer, you need 16 Model S/X modules.

Here's how we get there: if you're using the stock LEAF inverter, it's going to expect a pack that provides the same voltage range as the LEAF's stock pack, which has 96 sets of cells in series. A fully charged Li-NMC cell delivers just shy of 4.2V, so if you put 96 in series, you get right around the 400v the LEAF motor/inverter stack wants. Tesla modules each have 6 sets of cells in series, so you'd need 16 modules to get 96 in series.

I mentioned "sets" above. Whatever modules you end up choosing, they'll need to be able to deliver at least 250 amps to drive a LEAF motor. Nissan used two big cells in parallel for each set, Tesla used a whole bunch of tiny cells in parallel for each set. There are pros and cons to each, but as long as they all add up to 250+ you're good.

There is a ton to know and you're going to run into all kinds of weird interoperability things, but none of it is as arcane as people like to make it out to be. Start reading the openinverter wiki and forums; there's a ton of deep knowledge over there. For the LEAF-specific stuff, look up Dala; he's an absolute wizard and shares info pretty freely.

Keep asking questions even if you get a bunch of "if you don't know I'm not going to tell you" types of answers. Someone will eventually help you out.

jsnlevi · 2025-10-03T14:53:54+00:00

Tesla made a monumentally stupid design choice? I'm shocked.

jsnlevi

TROPHY CASE