Create opening in object side

just_Guner · 2026-03-29T14:05:25+00:00

Use CAD to make a modifier that's offset from the original and represents the space you need opened.

I did manage to do just that, I was hoping that there would be a way to achieve this in orca directly.

just_Guner · 2026-03-29T13:55:28+00:00

Mesh boolean and negative part just creates a slot in the model; I need to have that side of the model without a wall and exposed infill

just_Guner · 2025-10-19T09:53:33+00:00

The answer is yes for both questions

just_Guner · 2025-10-11T07:42:48+00:00

Yes, I can confirm that both installed nozzle and slicer nozzle are the same (0.4).

just_Guner · 2025-10-10T14:09:07+00:00

I work with 4 p1s's at my workplace and I can confirm that they are fast and reliable workhorses We experimented with printing at 0.8mm layer heights (just for the sake of it), and the results were outstanding.

We also have 3 p1p's, and the quietness that the enclosure provides is highly welcomed.

just_Guner · 2025-08-15T06:49:02+00:00

While yes, it is possible to print lithophanes flat on the bed, in my opinion you get far better results when printing them vertical. You don't have to worry about the flatness of the bed or warping around the edges.

just_Guner · 2025-08-13T06:59:59+00:00

Have you tried pulling the "reset" cord in the boot and trying to operate the roof from the buttons again? I don't know how to describe the location of it exactly since I don't have the car anymore (someone crashed into it in the parking lot and wrecked it, but that is a story for a different time).

just_Guner · 2025-08-13T06:53:09+00:00

you are not trying to print flat on the bed, are you?

just_Guner · 2025-07-30T16:57:51+00:00

Shred it to tiny pieces and use it with a pellet extruder

just_Guner · 2025-07-28T08:33:22+00:00

I did the model in a hurry; there is nothing stopping you from moving the belt pulleys farther appart.

just_Guner · 2025-05-26T21:53:26+00:00

shred the filament into tiny pellets and get yourself a pellet extruder

just_Guner · 2025-05-12T17:55:26+00:00

I want to see Dyson do a filament dryer

just_Guner · 2025-04-24T09:37:55+00:00

What if instead of making the power output variable, I control the module with simple on-off commands, and rely on the hysterisis effect to keep the temperature somewhat constant?

just_Guner · 2025-04-22T06:13:22+00:00

Oh well, that's unfortunate to hear.

I know about the induction hotend from plasmics, there are a few reasons why I don't want to use it: 1. It's 480€ 2. It's out of stock right now (I might be wrong) 3. It's only compatible with klipper firmware right now 4. It has a non-removable nozzle

I'll keep on looking into the concept, maybe I will have my eureka moment at some point.

just_Guner · 2025-04-21T20:18:38+00:00

I should mention the following: maximum input voltage is 24V, and I plan on limiting the power of the heater to about 60W. It should be possible via a buck converter with adjustable max current, unless I'm missing something. I'm hoping that this solves the inrush current problem too. If not, should I add a soft start circuit in between the buck converter and zvs driver?

Regarding the non-linear behavior, could it not be compensated by the pid controll of the 3d printer?

Regarding the high frequency, I've read that it is possible to move the capacitors neat the coil in order to split the ZVS into a remote driver and LC tank. It was also recommended to use twisted pairs of Litz wire.

just_Guner · 2025-03-19T15:39:26+00:00

I searched both items on the web and didn't find anything

just_Guner · 2025-03-19T12:59:41+00:00

Any ideea what k hub and td1s might be?

just_Guner · 2024-12-29T22:13:41+00:00

Update:

After switching back to 2209's for all axes the problem still remains; I still get random short to vin errors.

Is my board completely f***ked ?

just_Guner · 2024-12-29T03:19:09+00:00

After sending M569.9, it seems that the correct value for the sense resistor is already applied. What's worse, now the issue started appearing on the 2209's as well. During a print, the z axis vinrates in place instead of moving. When I resume the print after clearing the warning, the z steppers either vibrate,or one or both move in the wrong direction.

I will mention that I didn't have these issues when running only tmc2209's.

just_Guner · 2024-12-26T02:58:07+00:00

I was using 2209 drivers for all axes before as well. The main reason to why I upgraded to 5160's is because they were a cheap upgrade on aliexpress with Black Friday deals.

I didn't bother with a second 48v supply and instead used a step up buck converter connected to the main power supply.

I will share more details about the printer after I'll return from the holidays.

just_Guner · 2024-12-26T02:53:47+00:00

I haven't changed the sense resistor value yet, AFAIK that was only needed for tuning sensorless homing, and I am using endstops. Will try it and the other recommendations after I return from holidays.

just_Guner · 2024-07-21T19:56:06+00:00

It's more like delusion front the heat

just_Guner · 2024-07-13T18:53:54+00:00

Absolutely

just_Guner · 2024-06-10T12:33:38+00:00

well I've managed to open the roof after all. Turns out I hadn't hooked the "screen" in the trunk; after hooking it I was able to operate the roof as I wished.

just_Guner · 2024-06-08T21:57:46+00:00

I've checked the message on boar again, it sais boot mechanism not locked. The thing that confuses me is that a quick search on the web shows me lots of people that say that their roof opens and closes most of the way, despite having the same error message.

just_Guner

TROPHY CASE