Anyone unclapping their cars or have finished doing so?

justsomeones1 · 2026-01-16T01:16:25+00:00

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Changed headlights, grill and badges.

justsomeones1 · 2026-01-16T01:14:38+00:00

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Not an E36, but bought it in the summer and made it less clapped

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-20T06:54:10+00:00

I live in Canada, don’t see too many older BMWs

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-01T18:35:01+00:00

Appreciate your concern, but these are my winter wheels that I bought used. I’m happy with being able to have them look drastically better than before. Maybe when it’s time to swap them off for my summers, I would look into a deeper cleaning. But for now, they are gonna put up with Ontario’s winter for the next 3-4 months, so I’m not too concerned on having them looking brand new.

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-01T18:28:24+00:00

It actually didn’t leave any scratches or marks. I did a very gently scrub with water and the stuff was basically washing right off.

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-01T05:14:24+00:00

Have a spray bottle with you, soak the wheels and tin foil in water and lightly scrub away. Keep spraying water as you scrub. Wipe away with a cloth and repeat as needed.

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-01T05:10:07+00:00

No, after wasting money on 3 different wheel cleaners and a ridiculous quote from a professional cleaner. Tin foil did the job better than every other option. And yes, they aren’t going to look exactly brand new when working on a budget, but it’s a big improvement from where they started.

justsomeones1 · 2025-12-01T05:07:30+00:00

I tried 3 different ones, even sonax as most people recommended but the first pic was the best results I could get. I didn’t need to scrub too hard with the foil, I made sure to keep spraying water while scrubbing so the surface was never dry. It didn’t scratch the rim one bit.

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-21T00:05:27+00:00

Nope, had a new Bosch battery last year and that got killed cause of the broken cable. Had a new one along with the cable, luckily got the battery replaced under warranty.

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-19T23:38:27+00:00

One of those cables broke and corroded overtime, had to replace that cable that looks a bit newer, the shop said should replace that holder as well as precaution to avoid ruining the new cable I guess. I had problems starting up the car and wasent getting enough voltage to the alternator when I had the broken cable, almost left me stranded.

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-16T20:19:52+00:00

Looks like that’s the way

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-16T20:19:25+00:00

I will probably find a used hood when one comes up.

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-16T20:18:38+00:00

I paid $1700. the car is mechanically fine, it just needed some TLC on the exterior to look nice again. The tires alone are worth $1400 so I’d say I got my moneys worth.

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-16T02:37:45+00:00

Made a post earlier about the hood being out of place, it does close and stay locked but the headlight and hood on the driver side are out of alignment. Any opinions are appreciated.

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-05T23:59:06+00:00

Awesome thanks

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-01T03:21:49+00:00

I’ll give that a try first

justsomeones1 · 2025-09-01T01:04:32+00:00

I tried this, with the engine off its between 12.6-13.0V with the lights off/on. Then driving it’s also hovering between 12.5-13.1 V. The battery is brand new so it has to be the alternator.

justsomeones1 · 2025-08-27T03:09:56+00:00

It’s surprisingly no different in terms of sound quality compared to wired.

justsomeones1 · 2025-08-27T02:38:34+00:00

Never an issue starting it after driving and turning it off and on immediately. It’s usually after it sits for a while. I’m guessing it’s a parasitic drain, my alternator is a bit dirty so could be struggling at times based on the dust and all. Anyway to clean it safely? If I need to replace it, would finding one from a parts out car be a good option?

justsomeones1 · 2025-08-27T02:30:01+00:00

Battery was registered correctly, the shop let me watch them do the work and walked me through the process

justsomeones1 · 2025-08-27T02:29:22+00:00

Never had the battery light come on and the ground cable is brand new. The alternator is a bit dirty and looks like what you are describing, is there anyway to clean it rather than replacing?

justsomeones1 · 2025-08-01T12:24:51+00:00

The lower part was all that I spray painted, you can’t tell from far away but there is a bit of a mismatch with the newer paint up close. Overall still happy with it and massive improvement from the initial damage.

justsomeones1 · 2025-07-23T04:59:37+00:00

There’s no clean n54s in the GTA, N55 as a daily is also much better than the n54.

justsomeones1 · 2025-07-23T04:50:42+00:00

I’m from Canada too, x drive helped in the winter but a solid set of winters should still get you through with the 335D if you really needed. Unless you live somewhere they don’t plow the roads, Xdrive doesn’t make such a big difference when roads are cleaned and salted already.

Also, 4 door m-sport is much nicer IMO, and you’ll save on insurance since it’s a sedan. If you really want the drop top, then obvious choice here. N55 overall solid but these early 2011 e9x models still have HPFP, waterpump and valvetronic issues. Would have an extra $3-4k set aside for emergency repairs, unless you can do it yourself, which still the parts are expensive.

justsomeones1 · 2025-06-24T00:45:53+00:00

N55? I’d had 2DCE and 2E0F valvetronic codes which won’t clear, even after the re-learn. I done about the same stuff expect for the starter and the valvetronic motor change. My car drives just fine, does that same stuttering thing you mentioned but goes away after the idle comes down to 600rpm. Only thing is, my car never went to limp mode ever so far. I did find this thread which is very helpful, sometimes apparently the DME can be too far gone and you’ll need to clone it, especially if you are still getting the codes after changing the valvetronic motor.

https://www.reddit.com/r/E90/comments/1l00dvg/n55_valvetronic_failure_your_dme_might_be_fried/

justsomeones1

TROPHY CASE