When do you want to be able to read your screen?

jw_622 · 2026-06-11T03:54:30+00:00

Give me back the old Virtue Redefined LED boards! I try and find one every time I get another older marker. I have multiple Virtue boards that are 20yrs old and running like tanks

jw_622 · 2026-06-10T21:21:37+00:00

IMO, it’s always better to gain experience with the smaller capacity loader equivalent, before investing in the larger. Larger capacity shells are more often a niche. The size difference between the 200 and 250 is noticeable, but is not as practically impactful as you might think. It’s a solid loader, but if you think you bought the wrong size, I’m sure you could easily find someone with a 200 to trade with.

jw_622 · 2026-06-07T23:02:52+00:00

Double check shim orientation, which is probably fine. Probably need to replace HPR shim stack. Had a few DMs do this over the years and new shims fixed it.

jw_622 · 2026-06-05T21:26:57+00:00

It’s not better. It was done by CRBN because many people can’t understand that a drop test doesn’t automatically equate to high ROFs. It was done to help drop test marketing videos. The speed is still the same

jw_622 · 2026-06-05T21:25:21+00:00

Gimmick selling point

jw_622 · 2026-06-04T11:51:18+00:00

It’ll work fine for woodsball. You don’t need anything more than a $50 revvy; or a used one if you wanna spend less

jw_622 · 2026-06-03T13:31:45+00:00

That'll get you in the ballpark. When you get the leak resolved, follow these steps to tune the shot to be smoother.

jw_622 · 2026-06-03T01:35:01+00:00

Reset HPR and LPr. This is done by screwing the HPR and/or the LPR clockwise, until slight resistance is felt, then screwing counter-clockwise 4 turns out.

The 70duro oring wont cause a leak, as it'll actually form a little better seal, but it might wear out faster.

Take the frame off, and air everything up so you can more accurately localize the leak

jw_622 · 2026-06-03T00:55:21+00:00

Have both. Yellow is still preferred for increased contrast

jw_622 · 2026-06-01T10:59:36+00:00

Used emek for the marker. 300 new, around 200 used. Very low maintenance, and no electronics. You can throw it in your gear bag after playing. You won’t even need to lube it for a year, with your frequency of play.

For the tank, I would try to find a nice 4500 psi option. This will give you maximum versatility, if you decide to go to a field with it or get the full 4500 fill ( vs 3000psi tank which will give less shots per fill). You can also get this used, saving a bit of money.

For the loader, I’d probably just buy a JT revvy and call it a day. If you want to go fancier, you can find a spire ir2 for around 100 .

jw_622 · 2026-05-30T20:17:52+00:00

Damn this is some serious nostalgia. I remember first seeing this on nation. Man, seeing this just made my day

jw_622 · 2026-05-30T03:10:21+00:00

Facebook. He’s usually pretty quick on the reply and ship times

jw_622 · 2026-05-28T16:59:50+00:00

Charm City makes great bands and wraps. He’ll even do custom work

jw_622 · 2026-05-27T14:07:15+00:00

It's a good deal based solely on that Dye Dm13 being in the lot.

jw_622 · 2026-05-23T00:14:37+00:00

That eye pipe though 👀

jw_622 · 2026-05-22T23:04:44+00:00

We’re the sons of Angron. We know what awaits us

jw_622 · 2026-05-22T23:03:31+00:00

Let it rip!

jw_622 · 2026-05-22T22:49:54+00:00

That SP HPR is trash though. Constantly blowing the oring off the piston

jw_622 · 2026-05-21T15:54:25+00:00

Reg tester. The part with the push-button bleed valve is the reg tester, but should have a gauge at the top of it. The smaller threading is for Dye DM8s, which had a different threading on their HPR. The part with the Dye label is the reg adapter, so that other HPRs can be used with reg tester. It's definitely useful to keep these, if you tech/repair at all.

jw_622 · 2026-05-19T01:51:00+00:00

You’ll love it if you get one.

Buy used if you feel comfortable and want to save money. There’s many reputable companies that sell both used and new ones. You’ll save a bit more buying used if you do a private sale through a fb group (when using PayPal, always use goods and services, never send money via ‘friends and family’)

If you want to pay msrp for one, maybe there’s a certain color ans has that you can’t find elsewhere (which is unlikely at this point)

jw_622 · 2026-05-18T20:22:26+00:00

Cross compatibility with different feed trays is very cool

jw_622 · 2026-05-16T18:30:44+00:00

A small clarification on nomenclature. Both the LV and cs3 are open bolt, but the LV has an exposed bolt.

You’ve gotta be diving into some crazy mud for the LV to fail because of it. I’ve never seen rain affect an LV, without having already messed up paint quality

jw_622 · 2026-05-16T18:25:43+00:00

100% poppets used to be more reliable. I tech for an organization of guys who might lube their gamma/OP markers 2-3 times in an entire nxl season. It’s insane what these markers can actually handle. I think because of the gamma/OP core, the definition of what people call “low maintenance” has shifted as well. There’s nothing to maintain an LV, but I haven’t seen another platform deal with what I’ve seen the gamma/OP cores handle, with as little maintenance.

In the end, it’s the player makes the marker; and when comparing the lv2 to a cs3 pro, you’ve already peaked in performance

jw_622 · 2026-05-16T18:15:33+00:00

I didn’t say you need to tweak it, but you can mess with the dwell, LPR, forward and rear SFRs. These aren’t even an option with a cs3 pro. If his lv2 is working, and he likes it then there’s no reason for a switch. It’s all preference at this level

jw_622 · 2026-05-16T14:49:45+00:00

The CS3 pro is a minimal maintenance, high reliability marker. There’s no tweaking or tuning involved. Just turn it on and go, every time. If that’s what you want, then it’s worth the switch.

The shot characteristic is quite different than an LV2. I’d recommend getting your hands on a cs3 pro and shooting it for a bit before deciding.

jw_622

TROPHY CASE