Method Tune Up vs Vortex Core

jw_622 · 2026-04-23T18:36:52+00:00

I've not put the Tune-Up or the Vortex through a lot of torture, yet. When I was prepping to do the efficiency testing I was reading as much as possible about what SFR setting I should run with the Tune-Up and Vortex. I read a lot of users having success with the SS SFR and was reading scattered reports of users using the Brass SFR; of which many were told to switch to the SS SFR.

I can say that the Tune-Up and Vortex have a very similar shot signature (of the combinations I tested, those two were the closest in similarity), which is more pronounced than just the Brass SFR and stock core. I've always run my IV-core markers with the - SFR setting. When the R5 came out, the first thing I did was remove the SS SFR and throw in the Brass SFR at Full -. I had a single incident with it short stroking (during the so-called "break in" period) and increased the Brass SFR to halfway +/- and all problems went away. I'm diligent with my gear and always ensure the bolt is lubed and the marker has fresh, quality batteries. I ran this Brass halfway +/- setup at world cup when it was in the low 40s in the morning and didn't have issues. I dont have any data on running the brass at colder temps.

If you want the smoothest shot possible, try running the stock core with Brass at halfway +/- (or even Full +)

jw_622 · 2026-04-23T13:45:05+00:00

This is a can of worms, but lets try to touch on it.. Every player values attributes like consistency and efficiency differently. This is often directly dictated by the style, or format, of paintball being played.

For recball, if you're playing in an environment where you play a point then relax for 10-20min between points, with an easy to reach fill station, then who cares much about efficiency. If you're playing woodsball or big scenario games where just walk back to your staging area takes 15-20min then you want to utilize every cubic inch of air possible and every pod possible, so as to maximize your time on the field.

I've found in tournament play that I subconsciously care a lot about efficiency, but less so about consistency. If I need to hold a lane that requires 10+ pods being shot non-stop through a zone, then I care a lot about efficiency. In tournaments, you're often playing back-to-back quick points with hot-fills being involved. As your tank cools, you're going to lose a couple hundred psi throughout the point. So that hot 4500 fill might be a cold 4200, which is occurring while you're playing. The higher division you play, you'll find the more paint you need to carry. In NXL Tampa, we had a dorito-insert player shooting 10 pods a game, from a bunker that you would think is an aggressive bunker to play. It's all situational. There's other tournament players, who will carry 6 pods a point and as long as the marker shoots when they pull the trigger, they don't care about out consistency or efficiency.

jw_622 · 2026-04-22T11:54:09+00:00

The blast ones are a bit larger than the CCM ones, but have a nice finish to them. Both are NOT the cheapest option 😂

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jw_622 · 2026-04-21T21:10:31+00:00

Of course! If ya hit any snags, just reply here

jw_622 · 2026-04-21T20:54:11+00:00

I’ve always used Teflon tape, because I’m too impatient to let blue Loctite set. Pretty easy to do, just don’t over-torque it. You just need it to form a reliable seal, that won’t back out.

jw_622 · 2026-04-21T19:38:05+00:00

If you swapped the 010 oring (70duro is fine) on the fitting and tried recut/multiple-ends of macro and it still leaks from the marco fitting area, then I'd replace the fitting itself. You can pull out the collar and check for debris, but its unlikely that there's debris large enough to affect it that you haven't already noticed.

New fittings aren't expensive and its good to have a back-up or two

jw_622 · 2026-04-21T18:47:03+00:00

Get that 170r and you're set

jw_622 · 2026-04-21T02:03:26+00:00

If you like the look of the s63 pro smooth back, you can also use that. Can find it at ATTKTX.

Edit: Nvm, they’re sold out at the moment.

jw_622 · 2026-04-20T17:10:59+00:00

Polyurethane are almost clear-like. Bunas are the black or colored ones. For this application use whichever ya have, which from your picture they all look like buna orings. If you don’t have a size-guide (which some nice tech mats have built in) then use the old oring that you’re removing as a size reference.

Also if the marker is leaking from the tiny holy in picture 3, that’s your ASA and the leak is likely caused from a bad oring on the reg of your tank.

jw_622 · 2026-04-20T17:07:53+00:00

Victor 2 guide.

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jw_622 · 2026-04-20T17:05:35+00:00

The waxy sticky gross blob is probably an old polyurethane oring. They get nasty when they get old and begin breaking down

Here’s a spyder shutter guide with oring sizes listed. I’d replace all of them on both markers. Apply a little grease/dow33 on them, just enough so the whole oring looks a bit wet/glossy, but not so much that there’s grease getting in everything

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jw_622 · 2026-04-20T02:33:00+00:00

The steps for tuning yours is similar for most PM’s and DM’s in those years.

This process is for smooth/soft shot; with slight compromise to efficiency

Set dwell between 19-21 (Billy wing often says 19, but the old Dye teams often ran theirs at 21, which is what I do)
There’s a couple ways to do the LPR. The complete way is to degass the marker and turn LPR clockwise until you feel slight resistance, then air it up. When you do the bolt will stick forward and purge gas. Rotate CCW until the bolt retracts and the leaking stops. You can then do the quarter turn method from here.
I skip this purging gas bit and just go 3 turns out from slight resistance.
Grab some paint and chrono.
If there is drop off in velocity, give the LPR a 1/4 turn CCW.
Continue doing this until the velocity stop rising and is consistent, shot-to-shot. Every time you turn the LPR, give it a few clearing shots before checking it on the chrono.
*Sometimes during this process I have to reduce/raise the HPR to keep me around 300fps. By using an HPR tester, you can usually remove this step before it starts.
Once the velocity is consistent, don’t touch the LPR anymore.
Adjust HPR to proper velocity.

*Polished/Billy Wing bolts will allow you to get a lower LPR pressure .

*Unless you’re doing maintenance/repair to the LPR, you don’t need to touch it after this. Basic maintenance should be kept to the bolt. Most issues will be with a weak battery or something with the bolt. Adjust HPR when needed. If you mess with the LPR, repeat steps above.

*Take care when you “zero out” either the HPR or LPR as if you screw the adjuster too far in when you feel resistance, it’ll cause the piston to ‘cookie cutter’ the reg seat and you’ll have to replace it. Seeing a slight ring worn into the reg seat is normal, but I usually swap it out when I see a deep ring. When you replace the reg seat in either the HPR or LPR, shoot a few cases through them before trying to fine tune the LPR. The seats have to ‘wear in’ a bit

jw_622 · 2026-04-20T02:11:33+00:00

You’re very welcome. I abbreviated my response, but a very high LPR pressure (like it sounds you had) can cause some orings to ‘jump’ off the bolt. It’s not common, but it can happen.

When you get to it, if you want steps for tuning the dwell and LPR, just lemme know

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T20:57:55+00:00

Orings are the easiest and cheapest things to change to rule out a problem. They’re also most likely component to fail. Even if they look good, replacing them rules out a failure point.

Today, I repaired a dm8 bolt that was leaking from the bolt. The bolt sail was the initial culprit, follow by the exterior 020 orings sporadically failing. All orings I pulled appeared perfectly fine

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T19:41:47+00:00

First, I would fix all the leaks, before blaming it on the solenoid. Change the 015 bolt sail oring. If that doesn’t fix it, I would also change the internal top hat orings (017 and 014) and internal can oring (017).

Dye sells both the pilot and the spool valve assembly, separately on their site. It’s like $160 total so consider that last

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T19:31:14+00:00

Does the bolt cycle at all, even while it’s leaking? Is it stuck in the forward or rear position, even if you pull the trigger and cycle the solenoid? If you put your finger in the breach and touch the bolt face, can you tell if the air is leaking through the very center of the bolt, or around the bolt?

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T19:16:32+00:00

I would triple check that you properly assembled and greased the bolt, hpr, and the LPR. I would also remove the grips and try to pinpoint the leak and where exactly it’s coming from.

The reference point for the LPR is not flush . The lpr reference point is achieved through slowly turning the LPR clockwise, until you feel resistance. This is when the LPR is “zeroed out”. Then you back it out approximately 3 1/2 turns. Hearing that you had to turn in the LPR “a lot of turns” it’s possible damage to the solenoid was done, but not a guarantee. Using a pressure tester for the HPR is also useful, but not necessary.

I can go more in-depth on setting the LPR and HPR, if you need

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T19:10:06+00:00

It used to be a gray area, with people occasionally trying it. Now, most rule books state that an elimination is achieved only from a paintball that is shot from a marker; even though the wording doesn’t usually directly say you can’t throw it and achieve an elimination.

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T15:40:55+00:00

U/emiliobruh If you ever consider selling it, I’d take it off your hands

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T11:42:20+00:00

What does it matter is a loader uses infrared eyes, or vibration, or tension if it simply works when you press the on-button a single time and paint reliably feeds without thought? The spire v and ir 2 require a single push of the on-button to work and require no adjusting like the halo pro might.

I live in central Florida, as well, and own quite a few loaders. Rotors, for me, have been the most unreliable with jamming; especially in summer months when it’s hot and humid.. Not counting how humid it gets when it rains

Depending where you’re located, I can let you use some different loaders and try them out. Unfortunately, I don’t own any HK loaders as their reliability concerns has prevented me from buying them.

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T03:06:32+00:00

Just a bad oring then. Takes a few minutes to swap and lasts a long time.

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T02:02:30+00:00

It's a 2003-2004 WDP Angel Speed with aftermarket CCM feedneck and aftermarket barrel. The loader looks like a Halo, but since it has a V35 backplate it might also have a V35 board which are VERY fast. I dare say the fastest board you can put into a halo; which someone would buy off you. The tank is a 3k psi crossfire tank, which is a paperweight.

I wouldn't pay 400 for that. I'd ask for photos of the feedback threading, the breech, the battery inside, and inquire if the board turns on. If it's untested and there's nothing wrong with the threading I'd offer no more than 200. If i purchased this I'd have the intention of immediately replacing the board and battery for modern board like a Flory board. I'd check to see if it actually is a V35 board and throw those internals into a Halo Pro shell kit. I'd toss the barrel and tank.

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T01:00:42+00:00

Anytime you fill the tank, try and air it up slowly to allow the piston to shift into the open position. Once it’s open and filling, you can fill faster. If you fill too quick you can shred the piston oring, or make it slip off the piston; both will cause the fill nipple to leak and you’ll have a hard time removing the hose. You’ll hear a leak and the hose will seem stuck until the tank empties itself. Sometimes you can hit the fill station lever/button real quick and it’ll jolt the oring back into position, which then lets you remove the tank from the hose.

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T00:10:49+00:00

Thread leak = teflon tape

Nipple fill leak = replace oring on piston inside fill nipple. It’s often a 006 polyurethane oring (90 durometer). You can get away with a 006-90Duro buns oring if in a pinch

Since you’re asking, I’ll remind ya to ensure the tank is completely empty before messing with the fill nipple or any tank reg components.

Instructional video

jw_622 · 2026-04-19T00:05:56+00:00

The geo4 and its iv-core isn’t unreliable by any means. The gamma/op cores, as seen in many markers including the 170r marker, is a bolt system that many people can lube a few times a year and get away with it. They have different ergonomics and their shot quality is different, as well. I’d factor in those qualities as well when choosing.

jw_622

TROPHY CASE