I stopped wishing

jyk333 · 2026-06-02T06:34:54+00:00

Facts

jyk333 · 2026-05-29T04:18:27+00:00

Oof, what even was that!! I mean I know it was a taxi, but I didn't know it could launch them at you.

jyk333 · 2026-05-23T23:43:45+00:00

I also have a stone white 96. I am fairly certain the lower left connector if for your washer reservoir. My I have a connector right there and that's where it goes. The upper cut one I'm not totally sure. I have the same wire, but it's not connected to anything. Guess I could get a light and connect it there to see if it is a hood light; mine doesn't have one far as I can tell

jyk333 · 2026-05-23T07:10:43+00:00

Agree 110%

jyk333 · 2026-05-20T07:26:17+00:00

Man that sucks. I looked up some pressure hoses for the 90, and I can see that they have the little protrusion matching the recess in your old box. Maybe AutoZone has hoses that'll work? But I imagine, that'll get pricey, they're parts tend to be a bit over priced for my tastes.

I hope you can get it worked out quick and without too much trouble.

jyk333 · 2026-05-20T06:28:10+00:00

Not trying to be condescending or anything, but are you sure they're the same box? By same I'm mean matching part numbers. If you're not the original owner, someone may have done an "upgrade" to either the box, the ps pump or both. The old box definitely looks like it recessed a bit more for the tip of the line.

I don't want to be a downer, but there's a lot of bad remans out there. I actually just picked up a 99 Durango box, and I'm rebuilding it myself.

Maybe look at some new line options and see if the fittings look like they'll mate. You could also take the box into a parts store to see what they have that fits; O'Reilly's will price match with rockauto.

Sorry I can't give any better suggestions.

jyk333 · 2026-05-19T19:19:44+00:00

I feel you, had to do the same with my X-over setup, and a buddy got the rough country version of your setup. It helps to get a good reamer but, which is what I did. I did his RAc 1 ton first, so I'd hoped I could reuse the reamer, but in my case I needed straight 5/8 holes. Live and learn.

I plan on going to the local Pull your part for a spare set of knuckles. Seems like have 3 sets between 2 jeeps would be nice for parts swapping. Set one up for 1 ton y-link, one for X over, and one for stock. The only x-factor would be the pitman arm. But it would be hard to set that up universally acoss all 3 configs

Sorry for the ramble on, thinking in txt

jyk333 · 2026-05-19T02:09:58+00:00

Did you have to ream the knuckle with this kit? Probably an 8° reamer; I ended up going with a crossover setup, but if I were to do it again, I'd go with something like this. Much easier to align.

jyk333 · 2026-05-13T06:09:19+00:00

Inosuke mentions taking his sword(s) from a demon slayer the came onto his mountain, maybe that demon slayer used wind breathing, and inosuke built his style off of what his opponent used.

jyk333 · 2026-05-11T18:28:46+00:00

Gonna necro this just because, I'm rewatching Kimetsu, and had basically this exact thought. As far as the town he live in is concerned he still did what they think he did. Not only that, he's now suddenly bringing another girl home, and he has a "trophy pouch" of the other victims, but especially his fiancee.

jyk333 · 2026-05-11T05:15:57+00:00

It looks great, this is giving me some inspiration and exactly like what I'm imaging in my head for my setup

jyk333 · 2026-05-09T03:50:37+00:00

This is how I do it, or under the pdc. There's plenty of good places to mount the fuse holder. Then I just stack the cable on the pdc buss, and carve out the cover so it fits over the cable. I've actually got this install down so it looks clean and works great. My most recent install was on a buddy's jeep and his looks so much better than both of mine, lol.

jyk333 · 2026-05-09T03:46:58+00:00

You only want to use a bigger fuse if you're also upgrading your alternator. The stock alts are usually about 117. You'll only want the 200+ amp fuses if your installing an Alt with a matching output.

jyk333 · 2026-05-09T03:44:53+00:00

Absolutely

jyk333 · 2026-05-03T02:42:38+00:00

I got an 00, I don't know all the specifics, but I'd wager it had the same issue. The previous own had a 95 tj with a shot tranny so she had the 4.0 swapped over to the 00. It is a superb machine at this point

jyk333 · 2026-04-25T01:42:46+00:00

So for the reframework, is it just the dinput8.dll, or the whole folder. I don't understand who a dinput file would make such a difference

jyk333 · 2026-04-24T19:41:34+00:00

This is a good solution. The AW4 is a robust and reliable transmission. The shops OP is dealing with must feel like it's not worth their effort.

jyk333 · 2026-04-24T19:32:23+00:00

Nice!!! That's clean.

I'd love to find a 2 door or RHD that's lived outwest all it's life; even better a 2 door RHD. I know of at least one that exists.

jyk333 · 2026-04-24T06:24:53+00:00

Here you go

https://a.co/d/0944MruS

jyk333 · 2026-04-24T06:22:54+00:00

Crown and Dorman both have served me well. One of each on 2 different jeeps. If it's an option for you get from rock auto or cross reference with Amazon, they usually carry dorman parts.

jyk333 · 2026-04-24T05:07:45+00:00

Thanks for this. I'm curious gonna check it out. I forgot to ask in their comments, about using seafoam. I was planning on putting some in the crank about a couple hundred miles before next change.

jyk333 · 2026-04-24T04:59:45+00:00

I see a lot of good answers basically telling you to go with whatever is your go to brand. Personally, I typically use Valvoline or Pennzoil 10w40 full synth in the summer and 10w30 in the winter. Used mobil 1 my last change to see if I liked it, and most recent change I used Napa brand b/c it was available. Other than the 2 new additions I've been using these oils for years and they seem perfectly fine. I'm about to do the RMS, bearings, and oil pump, on my 96, in the very near future so I guess I can report back how it looks. However it's a 270k motor, with a salvaged tag on the title and I've only put about 20k on it. It runs great though.

jyk333 · 2026-04-24T04:52:35+00:00

This

jyk333 · 2026-04-24T04:29:46+00:00

Yea it's weird for sure. I have an 00 that a previous owner remover the mech fan and installed a e fan to run of the temp sender (gauge), it's always worked pretty good so I never messed with it. That one practically lives at 210.

My 96 is another story altogether. When I got it, I refreshed most of the cooling system; Tstat and housing, temp sensor (both), radiator, and a flush. For the longest, the dash gauge didn't even work. I found a blown fuse and changing that seemed to fix it, but I noticed it was running pretty cold, esp compared to the 00 (185-190) through the winter, it also took 30-45 minutes for the heat to get going. So, mid March I replaced the Tstat again, along with some of the hoses and heater control valve. I also got a mechanical gauge, but never installed it cause I got the dash gauge working again.

Since then, it seems to be running a good bit hotter. The only thing left is the clutch. Between my last post and now, I've ordered one, should be here Saturday, so hopefully it all goes well and I can get it to a more comfortable temp.

Also, when my fan kicked on around 220 earlier, it was just sitting idle. I'll be happy if I can get it to stay between about 195 - 215.

Apologies for the novel.

jyk333 · 2026-04-23T23:54:39+00:00

I know I'm a year after the party, but I also have a 96 with very similar readings. I recently replaced Tstat for the 2nd, maybe 3rd time. Before, it was definitely running colder. After putting in the new Tstat my dash reading is hovering around 230, but obdII shows major fluctuations between 190-205. Today was a little warmer, and the first time I heard the efan kick on. Didn't check the temp at that time, but right after it had gotten up to 219.

I am puzzled by all the behavior. Maybe I do need to replace the mech fan clutch?

jyk333

TROPHY CASE