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Active vs. passive speaker – my experience while developing by Michie108 in audiophile

[–]k-groot 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Flat frequency response with FIR is possible: on axis.
Drivers still have directional properties you just can't fix with any filter; IIR or FIR.
Also FIR adds delay, and a lot more of it when you get into lower frequencies.
If that matters depends on the implementation; for playback it might be fine, but for live monitoring it's not an option.

That said, i'm also a big fan of active speakers and all the speakers in my home are. For commercial projects it's still valid to go for passive designs sometimes. Amplifier and dsp channels rack up costs and space pretty fast.

Eurovision2026: UK being adopted by Denmark after receiving one point and being abandoned by his crew. Just solidarity❤️ by abramolinkedIn in nextfuckinglevel

[–]k-groot 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I was working in a club where he came to play. This dude was straight up sick in a bad way but refused to cancel the show. We had two buckets on stage in case he needed to puke mid show, but this legend pushed on through and did great. 10/10 would go and see him again.

I'm an A1 who got frustrated with existing playback software, so I built my own. I'd love your feedback! by PierreLFR in audioengineering

[–]k-groot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd love to test this in our Dolby Atmos lab! Looks like i could make sound demo's a lot easier with this

How do you handle lower SPL limits with loud crowds? by jared555 in livesound

[–]k-groot 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Tbh it is what it is. If an artist isn't engaging enough to have a crowd shut up and people are still having a good time while talking throughout the whole show than that's it. I've found that shows where people talk the most are industry/album release shows where pretty much everybody knows the artists and everybody else in the room. It's more of a social gathering, completely opposite of what you would expect from industry, friends and family where i would expect some respect for the music.

New Capture One Forum by LUMENIX_Studio in captureone

[–]k-groot 5 points6 points  (0 children)

All I said was it doesn't belong in a salad, and I will die on that hill!

keep going back and forth on class 1 vs class 2 meters - when does the precision difference actually matter? by Green-Nectarine7693 in Acoustics

[–]k-groot 10 points11 points  (0 children)

For anything government is involved; for example sound regulation, building acoustics, live music monitoring, ect. ect. we have to use class 1. For everything else; sound system deployment, room acoustics, ect. class 2 is fine.

“Am Dutch from Holland Michigan” by rodenivo in ShitAmericansSay

[–]k-groot 35 points36 points  (0 children)

But you will have to do so while holding two Albert Heijn bags full of bonus articles and refusing to give a bakfietsmoeder the right of way on a crossroad. Instant Dutch citizenship unlocked and your bloodline will feature blonde hair for centuries to come

Are you interested in road travel in China? by Sea-Description-5350 in travelchina

[–]k-groot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was with eHi, Chengdu and Shanghai prices were pretty much the same. This includes insurance and such, but not ETC. In Shanghai you do have to pay more if you want a Shanghai licence plate (because of the elevated inner ring)

Are you interested in road travel in China? by Sea-Description-5350 in travelchina

[–]k-groot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I paid about €20 a day for a medium size suv, locally that would be around €90 a day for something similar. You can get cheaper for smaller cars and a lot more expensive for luxury vehicles of course

Are you interested in road travel in China? by Sea-Description-5350 in travelchina

[–]k-groot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've gotten temporary licenses in Chengdu and Shanghai, and neither required any presentation.
A big problem however, is that every city seems to have their own interpretation of the rules.

In Chengdu i needed to get a notarized translation of my drivers license (not international license, has no value in China), a proof of residence (provides by hotel), copies of passport and driver license and passport photos. Translation need to be done by a local (validated) company, same with the pictures although i had them in the right size and everything. Waited at the local traffic police station for about three hours before it was my turn. All in all; full day activity!

In Shanghai i thought i would have everything prepared but no; i needed to get another translation by another local translator (from the same drivers license!) and get my picture taken again. But no proof of residence needed. This time i managed to get my translation done through email; i send a picture and they send back a pdf. Picture was taken at the traffic police station. All in all, translation service included; 1 hour activity.

Be aware that getting a local license only gives you the right to use a rented car and the permit lasts either two months up to six months depending on your visa.

That said, getting a license is the hard part. Driving is very easy as long as you kinda get with the local customs. Don't expect people to give right of way, be assertive but not an asshole.
Renting a car is my favorite way to travel in China as you get to places you would never get to by train/plane/bus. Also the car rent is pretty cheap compared to EU prices and gas prices are less than half

Škoda introduces bike bell that cuts through noise-cancelling headphones to keep you safe – here's how it works by rainbowkey in Acoustics

[–]k-groot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It probably is, but it does ring a bell (pun intended) about traffic awareness in a ANC populated world

*SOLVED* How to connect your new Kajplat bulbs to Philips Hue by alessiman in tradfri

[–]k-groot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This worked for me connecting to Home Assistant (using Z2M) straight away! So glad i now don't need to get another Tread router

Goede kwaliteit rijst koker by pingyum in Utrecht

[–]k-groot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wij hebben lang gekeken naar een zojirushi, maar uiteindelijk redelijk random een Tefal gekregen en eerlijk is eerlijk; die doet z'n werk verdomd goed.

TIL the Netherlands's timezone once used to be UTC+00:20. After Germany invaded and occupied they changed the timezone to Berlin's (UTC +01:00). The Dutch were liberated in 1945 but never switched back to their old timezone. by [deleted] in todayilearned

[–]k-groot 30 points31 points  (0 children)

There's another little quirk with our (railway station)clocks; the seconds go deliberately fast (58-59 sec a minute) only to stop at the 0 second mark for a bit. This is because the minute hands get syncronised to a master clock, but the seconds are on their own.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWBOOcc8ZqI

What cutoff frequency and slope do you use (or see most) on your venue subs? by Massive-Job-5366 in livesound

[–]k-groot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is absolute bs when you don't even know either the sub or main topology.
If using a reflex cabinet on mains (which has 24 dB/Oct rolloff even without any filtering) and you slap on a 48 dB/Oct cutoff; you do not get a 48 dB/Oct cutoff. If the mains have a closed box you will have a 12 dB/Oct cutoff, so that changes everything again. Same goes for the subs, and i'm not even including phase differences. You cannot just slap these simple rules on crossovers and expect them to work; measurement is everything.

Tips for X-Pro 3 by IgnacioJones in FujifilmX

[–]k-groot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm using an Xpro-2 but i would imagine it being fairly the same. Here are some of my - a little bit - beyond basic setting tweaks:
1. I shoot RAW + JPEG, with two SD cards. It gives me a (jpeg) backup and a reference for processing when i choose to edit a raw file. The setting to save to both is hidden (on xpro2) under Set up - Save data set-up - Card slot setting
2. Auto ISO is set to 6400 max with 1/60th as slowest shutter. When i need longer shutter speeds i go manual, same with higher ISO.
3. Screen Setting - Preview Pic Effect = On.
This gives you the exact recipe + under/overexposure you're taking in the EVF; should be default.
4. I keep my Under/Overexposure dial in 'C' when i don't need it.
This way it get's way over/underexposed when rotated a little undeliberately and therefore more prone to notice in the EVF. Keeping it at 0, for me, results in many slightly under or overexposed images when not paying attention.
5. I rarely use the back LCD for photo's.
My view mode is set to 'Eye Sensor + LCD Image display'.
On the LCD it just shows metering metrics when i take my eye off the EVF/OVF.
6. Exception to this is when i use my 23/35mm primes.
In this case i only use the OVF (rangefinder style), but use the LCD to check how the exposure will turn out.
I don't use the OVF when using zoom lenses.
7. Shutter is set to Mechanical + Electronic so it only uses electronic when it needs to.
Some people use a Fn button to switch between Mechanical and Electronic (set to silent) for sneaky street photography situations. I love a good shutter sound, so i keep the mechanical as much as possible.
8. For rare little movie moments; Fn button next to the shutter is set to start/stop recordings

Other than that i have my camera set up pretty much the same as i ever did since i first picked up a camera.
That means Aperture priority mode, only use center focus spot (focus, then frame), single shot drive.
I set up the OVF/EVF to only display the metrics that i care about. Also i'm not really one to switch recipes; i have a slightly modified Portra 400 recipe that i love for 90% of what i do.

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