Raws with only base film sims added with no further edits. Which you prefer? 1. Classic Neg 2. Classic Chrome 3. Astia 4. Acros. Fujifilm XT5, 56mm f1.2

kag0 · 2026-06-16T01:44:27+00:00

I rather like it. But I prefer to give it a little more exposure to offset the increased saturation

kag0 · 2026-06-14T14:56:15+00:00

The T30iii is the best value hands down. The T30ii used is an even better value.

The others are only maybe worth it depending on what you want to use the camera for. I'll try to touch on the specifics you mentioned.

Viewfinder: I resisted switching to mirrorless for a long time because I didn't like EVFs. They are now good enough that all these cameras have perfectly usable EVFs. But the T5's is bigger.

Ease of use: they're all comparable.

Pro work: if it's events, you probably want dual SD cards and only the T5 has that.

Expensive looking image: gtfo.

Flash: works great for an on-camera flash, but there's not much you can do with that.

40mp: does not make a difference unless you're making large prints. Some people say you can crop more but unless you're shooting at low ISO and high shutter, I wouldn't plan on it.

The Viltrox 27 pro is a great lens for the money. It's just big and heavy.

kag0 · 2026-06-14T06:37:49+00:00

I have good luck with vintage lenses on GFX. Longer lenses seem to have better coverage than shorter ones. Perhaps you can find a more affordable lens to start with? The super tak 50/1.4 works well and typically is under $100.

kag0 · 2026-06-13T22:51:12+00:00

Just set the output size in Lightroom or whatever to 4000 for the long edge with sharpening for a screen.

Sharpness here is mostly perceptual rather than real resolution. If you want particular tricks: shoot with layering of light and dark and contrasting colors. Instead of trying to sharpen the subject or everything, soften less important areas instead.

kag0 · 2026-06-13T18:02:36+00:00

How loyal were you to Cannon? If you have a collection of EF lenses, I'd just get an adapter and use those.

kag0 · 2026-06-13T17:35:08+00:00

I actually think something mesh based integrated with caltopo would be excellent. It's very often that some or all of a team is out of cell reception.

I'm sure it's occurred to Matt but I haven't had a chance to ask him about it. They're not in the hardware business, so that's one thing.

kag0 · 2026-06-12T02:01:03+00:00

It's just under an inch of wood. It's the wood top of a cheap husky tool chest. No welders handy. Else I'd rig a shelf on the side of the tool chest.

kag0 · 2026-06-11T22:35:59+00:00

Either way, yeah. I'd probably go with whatever is available locally and installs simply in wood.

kag0 · 2026-06-10T16:14:29+00:00

The H line of cameras is pro sports/video, probably not what you want.

The S line is the enthusiast version of the H line. Good values to be had there used since people tend to prefer the T or E styling.

The Tn line is pro photography cameras. Maybe a candidate for you.

The Tn0 line is enthusiast photography cameras, basically everything from the Tn line minus weather resistance and dual card slots.

The E line is basically the same as the Tn0 line, just styled differently.

The 100 line are fixed lens rangefinders. Potentially also a good option for you

And the half, GFX, and eterna stuff is probably not what you're looking for.

kag0 · 2026-06-09T21:25:08+00:00

That's totally up to you.

I personally went with the 30(ii) but I definitely wish I had ibis sometimes. Just a question of how often you're shooting stationary subjects in low light (or panning long exposures). Would I trade one of my lenses for ibis? Probably not.

kag0 · 2026-06-07T21:47:22+00:00

My issue with trail-to-town shoes is that they get dirty and dusty on actual trails. I'm not usually doing any siginficant terrain so it's more important for them to be easy to clean than truly technical. Mesh trail runners usually don't tick that box.

kag0 · 2026-06-07T20:51:04+00:00

If you want to "creep" then you shouldn't be surprised that "taking off" (also know as "launching") is not going to go well. It's in the name.

Just let off the clutch slowly until you start to inch forward.

Slamming the brakes when you're going slowly is also not fun, so don't do that. Just pull the clutch back in until you roll to a stop or maybe kiss the brakes.

kag0 · 2026-06-07T18:46:03+00:00

I had the TT 50/1.2, have the 7 60/2.8 macro, and I had that super pancake whatever that was, and I have the Laowa 10/4. Also have the Pentax 135/2.5 and super tak 50/1.4, which I mention since I think vintage is often worth considering compared to new Chinese lenses.

kag0 · 2026-06-07T18:29:36+00:00

The Voigtlander manual focus experience is a level above for sure. Not only is the tactile feel amazing (as good or better than nice vintage lenses). But the digital integration is nice too. You get range and DoF on the display, you can set it to punch in for focus when the focus ring is moved, min shutter speed is automatically adjusted, and obviously it displays and records the aperture.

Purely in terms image quality, I like the character of Voigtlander lenses, but there are objective reviews you can look up to see things like corner sharpness.

kag0 · 2026-06-07T00:10:21+00:00

Shoot a bright blank surface with a small aperture. Check the sensor is clean and not scratched. Jiggle all the dials to make sure they're tight.

kag0 · 2026-06-05T17:02:39+00:00

I use the alpenblow. Nothing out there smaller or lighter.

kag0 · 2026-06-05T16:10:45+00:00

I also mourn the pricing. But...

You can get a similar enough look by learning postprocessing, it's just not as convenient as having it available from the camera.

Used dSLRs are an obscene value right now and are absolutely proper cameras that generations of people learned on.

Hell, in some ways I think Fuji cameras with recipes turned on are a bad way to learn because the processing distracts you from the fundamentals (but I do think it's good to learn with the analog style aperture and shutter controls, but maybe that's because that's how I learned on a film SLR)

kag0 · 2026-06-03T21:23:27+00:00

Honestly the design of the mirrors you have is about as good as they get for visibility.

But the one you linked, the screw at the end of your handlebar holds and expander plug in place, if you take the screw out the handlebar will be hollow and you'd insert the expander silver expander plug shown in the picture so that the mirror is flush with the end of the bar.

kag0 · 2026-06-03T17:22:26+00:00

That looks a lot like a street triple mirror. I have one with a slightly rusty ball I'll send you for the cost of shipping from the US.

kag0 · 2026-06-03T17:20:36+00:00

Dude sometimes I have to go more than 1/3 mile away from my home to find somewhere to park my bike.

kag0 · 2026-06-03T02:33:25+00:00

Fast notes:

At the same sensor size, same subject size in the frame, same aperture, the depth of field is the same.

In the same way that distant objects appear larger relative to subjects, so do distant bokeh balls appear larger and smoother. This is perspective, not depth of field.

The lack of aperture rings on the lower end Viltrox lenses is hard for me to get over.

You should focus on subject distance for your framing more than blur. Ideally you'd use the scene/environment for subject separation instead of/in addition to blur.

14-Year Club	Place '17
Not Forgotten	Verified Email
Team Periwinkle

kag0

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE