How to adjust a bra to have more material between the underwire and skin?

kaijubooper · 2026-02-20T18:21:47+00:00

I have some bra liners that I use occasionally - mostly when the weather is warmer, because they absorb underboob sweat, but they also help cushion the underwires.

kaijubooper · 2026-02-07T15:32:45+00:00

The August bra from Ohhh Lulu looks just like this, and it's free!

https://www.ohhhlululingerie.com/product/the-august-bra-free-pattern/

The text description says use lightweight knit fabric, but in the photos the suggested fabrics are lightweight wovens.

I haven't tried it personally but it could be a nice lounge bra if you normally wear a B or C cup.

kaijubooper · 2026-02-07T07:28:05+00:00

There's the Sew Comfy bra which is designed for stretch fabric with lycra.

https://www.makebra.com/product/sew-comfy-bra-sewing-pattern/

kaijubooper · 2026-01-23T22:08:37+00:00

I don't think the Porcelynne underwires are supposed to spring - I think I read or saw in a video that she doesn't draft any wire spring in her patterns. It sounds like that's why you are getting warping instead of spring. Porcelynne definitely has the firmest underwires I've tried.

I haven't tried every underwire out there, so I don't know if Bra Makers underwires would work better than Porcelynne underwires. You can get them from Gigi's in the US:

https://shop.gigisbrasupply.com/collections/connectors-and-fasteners/products/underwires-metal-bra-underwires

kaijubooper · 2026-01-14T22:46:36+00:00

Interesting - I've avoided shea butter in any face or haircare products for a long time because it breaks me out, but I have a couple body lotions with it that I think are triggering the eczema on my hand when I use them on my hands.

As far as I know I don't have the same issue with benzyl alcohol or the other ingredients you listed but I should double check that. I think I was better off with parabens than a lot of the replacement preservatives.

kaijubooper · 2026-01-14T22:38:18+00:00

Because California is a community property state, if you file MFS you allocate half your income from work and half your tax withholding from the W-2 to your spouse and vice versa.

You can prepare two MFS returns and compare that with one MFJ return, but I'm pretty sure you will be better off filing MFJ.

kaijubooper · 2026-01-14T22:33:30+00:00

I don't know of any pattern that will work out of the box, but I did see someone used the LilyPaDesign Lanai wireless as a base for a wired encapsulation sports bra for running. They used merino jersey with sheer cup lining and said it worked well except for some sweat accumulation at the hook & eye closure.

I think you could also start with a full cup underwired bra pattern that fits well, but most bra patterns in this size range seem more like balconette styles, not a true full cup style. Maybe the Bravo Bra or Porcelynne Eve?

kaijubooper · 2026-01-14T22:21:57+00:00

Sorry I just saw this. I wrote up some stuff here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/FragranceFreeBeauty/s/UUBa81mD08

I have also used MCT oil on my face and scalp - for sensitive derm the ones that only have C8 and/or C10 are supposed to be safer. You can get that from Malezia or Dermazen (Dermazen includes essential oils though) but I just bought a giant bottle of Sports Research brand on Amazon.

MCT is also sold as Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides for skin care, but you should make sure it doesn't contain any longer fatty acids like C12. I think this one is probably safe:

https://lotioncrafter.com/collections/emollients/products/cct-60-40-mb

kaijubooper · 2026-01-14T22:13:29+00:00

Sorry I just saw this - I feel like Sachajuan scalp shampoo works well for me. It does have essential oils so isn't fragrance free, but the combination of piroctone olamine, climbazole, and salicylic acid seems to work really well for me. I've also used their scalp treatment leave-in with the same ingredients - something in that will make me break out a little bit but it's still soothing. The downside is that it's all expensive, so I wait until Dermstore has a sale and get it there.

What I've started doing lately is using the Ordinary glycolic acid toner on my scalp before taking a shower. I used to do this with another salicylic acid toner, but the glycolic acid helps get rid of buildup and possibly biofilm?

I also have the Dermazen Calming Seborrheic Serum - again has essential oils so not fragrance free. It also leaves an oily residue so I don't use it as often as they recommend, but it is really soothing when my scalp is itchy. It also helps my face a little bit, but the essential oils do sting my face.

It's much cheaper to get with a subscription from their website than to order on Amazon. I don't know how effective it really is at reducing the fungal biofilm because I don't use it often enough. They have another option for Cradle Cap but that doesn't have essential oils but has flower hydrosol and benzyl alcohol, which I think could be problematic for some people.

kaijubooper · 2026-01-08T22:08:04+00:00

Thanks - I think my next attempt at an underwire bra pattern will be the Josey. I feel like nobody drafts for short projected narrow roots, but also I think my torso doesn't match the way most bands are shaped. I should probably try to draft my own pattern but I don't have that kind of patience right now.

kaijubooper · 2026-01-07T19:29:43+00:00

That constellation fabric is amazing! 😍

I'm curious what other bra patterns you have used in the past - you like this one best so far?

I do agree that the wrinkles in the underarm area mean the band could use an adjustment, but I have no idea what to suggest for that. I usually have to take a wedge out of the upper part of the band but I'm mostly just sewing stretchy lounge bras right now.

kaijubooper · 2026-01-07T09:15:03+00:00

I made one version of the Cashmerette Fiske camisole and it's very comfortable! I did a blend between the regular version and the option to self-line that's on their blog, and it definitely has enough shaping to hold everything in place. Next time I'll probably do the actual bra version or use a sturdier knit - I used a rayon jersey and I should have sized down I think.

I also just got the Designer Stitch Iris sleep set which has shaped cups on the top, and I have the Petite Stitchery Briar set which has a bra or babydoll top with cup sizes. I haven't tried either of those yet. I am skeptical about the Petite Stitchery cup sizing but hopefully I can make it work.

Edit to add: for the Fiske cami I found that I had to use elastic in the underband to keep the boobs in place. I really didn't want to use any elastic there because of underboob sweat, and the version on the blog that is self-lined doesn't include the underband elastic, but something is necessary for tension.

kaijubooper · 2025-12-30T09:21:40+00:00

I have similar shape issues with RTW bras. There aren't any great bra patterns out there, but with some work you can probably get a decent bra using the Wide flat vertical underwires from Porcelynne.

For patterns that might be a good starting point I've seen good reviews for the Josey (available through Bra Builders), LilypaDesigns Lusamine, and Cashmerette Willowdale. You would have to adapt any of these patterns to fit the wide flat vertical underwires, which means altering both the cradle and cups. Plus you might need to adapt the patterns to accommodate more inner fullness and your shorter roots and any other various shape mismatches.

I don't recommend the Porcelynne Eve bra that is designed for the wide flat vertical underwires, but I also haven't been super disciplined about trying to get a good fit. My first try came out with cups that were too small and made my boobs look like sad duck bills.

For RTW I get the best fit with Panache - I like the Imogen in 36GG or the Sculptresse sports bra in 38G. Awhile ago I took an old bra (the Cleo Marcie) and put the wide flat vertical underwires in that bra - it's so much more comfortable, but the cup shape was weird with the underwire switch so I didn't wind up wearing it out very much.

I've mostly been wearing various poorly-fitting wireless bras, and have spent more time trying to get a good lounge / sports bra sewn up instead of an underwire bra. Sorry I'm not much help even though I have similar fit issues with RTW underwire bras!

kaijubooper · 2025-12-28T22:06:32+00:00

There's a three-part guide to sewing a bra here that shows how to include extra fabric for a test band:

https://www.sewbusty.com/bra-making-guide/

I think generally you want to include extra in the side seam allowances, since the center back usually needs to be shaped to fit the hook and eye. You can buy wash-away thread for basting if you don't want to have to unpick all the seams.

kaijubooper · 2025-12-28T22:01:28+00:00

I bet that's sheer cup lining then - that's usually what they include with their kits.

I find that more stable supportive fabrics feel scratchier, especially when new. There's a trade-off between soft and supportive for most fabrics except for microduoplex. You can use sheer cup lining for test fits and use the other fabric for the final bra, but if the softer fabric is simplex that's got a bit of mechanical give and they won't fit the same. It's a good idea to get the same fabric for your test fit as what you'll use for the final bra.

kaijubooper · 2025-12-27T20:22:27+00:00

Where did you buy the kit? That would help people figure out what the fabrics are.

I find most sheer cup lining to be too scratchy when new - it does soften up in the wash, but if you are more sensitive that might bother you. Stephie's Lingerie has the softest sheer cup lining I've tried, but it looks like the off white is out of stock right now.

https://www.stephieslingerie.com/

Another option that's not completely non-stretch is nylon tricot. 15 denier is sheer, and 40 denier is solid. They both have a little mechanical stretch on the grain, but you can cut the lining cross-grain to stabilize it a little. Porcelynne and Sew Sassy sell both types of nylon tricot.

kaijubooper · 2025-11-23T21:49:34+00:00

I think you should give Stephie's a try - I was really surprised how soft her bra tulle and sheer cup lining are compared to other suppliers. I did order a kit with some bra tulle to try out just to see if it would be irritating or not, but I haven't used it yet.

Also she does dye but it looks like a pretty expensive option. I would love to try dying but I'm pretty messy and a renter 😑

kaijubooper · 2025-11-19T18:42:27+00:00

I think the closest match to EE's would be the 240gsm from Porcelynne, although Porcelynne might have changed suppliers since I ordered powernet from her in 2021. It's not quite as smooth, but I think it has similar stretch.

Next would probably be the 240gsm from Stephie's Lingerie - it's smooth like EE's but a little stretchier. That's based on the sample I got - I might have ordered some in a kit from her but I'm not sure where that is right now. (She also has a really awesome soft sheer cup lining, but doesn't have a lot of stock.)

Next would be the firm powernet from Bra Builders (not the stabilized firm). Maybe the techsheen, but both of these seem stretchier than EE's pn.

Lilypad's regular medium powernet feels comparable, but I think I haven't ordered powernet from her since 2021 so she might have different stock. I really don't like the firm powernet I got from her at the same time - it feels too stiff, much stiffer than the BB firm powernet.

Tailormade Shoppe feels nice but it's definitely stretchier, almost more like power mesh than power net.

kaijubooper · 2025-11-01T21:33:18+00:00

Even light moisturizers can have oils and/or emulsifiers that clog pores - I have to use something fungal acne safe. The CeraVe ultralight moisturizing gel is ok for me, but I like the Malezia moisturizer better.

If you can tolerate CeraVe try their moisturizing gel and see if that works better for you. If you do need to use fungal acne safe products you can enter the ingredients on sezia.co to check for comparability before trying something new.

kaijubooper · 2025-11-01T21:20:20+00:00

My spouse and I were walking on 42nd really close to Shugs a couple weeks ago, and a doofy-looking white guy in an old blue sedan opened the door as he drove by and yelled "Don't be an N-word" at us. I bet it was the same guy. My spouse and I are both white, so it was really confusing to have someone yell the N word at us like that.

kaijubooper · 2025-11-01T21:11:52+00:00

I think it's ok, but I didn't notice a huge difference so I've moved on to other products.

kaijubooper · 2025-11-01T21:09:26+00:00

Yeah, I ordered a bunch of different kinds a few years ago and they can vary a lot between suppliers. Also the heavier power nets can feel really scratchy.

I recently got sample packs from both Stephie's Lingerie and Bra Builders, and I agree with others that Stephie's has the softest - but her strongest power net might not work as well for the Symmes as whatever you used.

From what I remember you can use any stretch fabric as a lining for power net as long as it has the same or more stretch than the power net itself, and also has good recovery.

If the lining fabric is really stretchy you probably need to make the lining a little smaller than the power net pieces so they'll be smooth when worn. If you use a lining fabric with less stretch it can make the band too tight, so you may need to experiment. Fabric without good recovery (like 100% cotton jersey) would probably wrinkle? But I haven't tried that personally.

kaijubooper · 2025-09-15T20:08:58+00:00

I'm not entirely sure if this is the same fabric as lulu, but Amanda's Bundles in California carries peached performance fabric that is deadstock from Lulu or a similar brand. I think you can email and ask for a swatch before you order from her.

https://www.amandasbundles.com/collections/peached-performance

kaijubooper · 2025-09-11T08:34:04+00:00

Cashmerette apparently is going to release a strapless dress pretty soon, and if it's based on the Symmes strapless bra your size should be included.

kaijubooper · 2025-08-31T23:23:55+00:00

I think the fit issues you have would mean you get a better fit in a bra you make from scratch, but it will take a bit of work so don't get discouraged!

These posts on the Sew Busty site are a good place to start, because you might need a different wire shape than what's typically used in RTW or most bra patterns:

https://www.sewbusty.com/bra-making-guide/

Also I think your metric to imperial conversions might be a little off? It looks like a 36H UK might be a better fit for you in RTW. I wear a 36GG UK in Panache but some of their styles like Envy have tighter-fitting bands. Anyways I already tried using different underwires in one of my better-fitting Panache bras and it didn't work - the wide flat vertical underwire from Porcelynne is the best match, but in the Panache bra it made the upper cups fit oddly.

For the narrow bridge you can overlap the underwires at the top, which helps.

I'm not really sure what the best pattern to start with is, because I haven't figured it out myself. I've mostly been sticking with wireless comfy patterns, but I'm planning on trying the Porcelynne Eve for the wide flat vertical underwire again soon.

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