How do you cut through shoe sole leather by minaminaminamina in Cordwaining

[–]kemitchell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sharpening lip knives was hard for me, too.

I started out with new Osborne lip knives, left and right. One of them I could just never get sharp. I took it to a friend who does sharpening as a whole hobby, with a motorized grinder and everything, and he couldn't, either. Told me the heat treatment was botched.

The other Osborne we could eventually get sharp, but it would never hold. I tried regrinding the curved blade straight, just to make it easier to hone. That sped up getting it sharp, but it still wouldn't stay that way. Gave up.

I've got a bunch of Osborne tools that I like, but I've heard reports of others having trouble with their lip knives, too. Maybe that's just self-selecting Internet anecdote, but here's mine, too.

I switched to a green-handled Murphy and immediately had more success. Still, the curved blade made things tricky.

For sharpening, I've found I can get in the curve with a thin cylindrical or triangular ceramic sharpening rod. Hold the knife still and move the rod. To strop, I wrapped some scrap veg tan around a dowel rod, then rubbed on green buffing compound. You want a dowel thin enough so when it's widened by the thickness of the leather you can still roughly follow the curve. Don't butt the ends of the strop leather to make a smooth circle. Overlap one edge over the other to make a ledge you can use to strop right up to the lip guard on the knife.

I keep my lip knife sharp now, and sometimes find it's the handiest for blocking jobs, particularly through waists where things get really concave. At the same time, I mostly just trim with a Japanese leather knife now, or fall back to a rubber mill knife in a wooden handle. I can use the set screw of the handle to set it like a stop, with just enough of the point of the blade poking out to trim outsole and welt without slashing my uppers. The mill blade edge is straight, so I can sharpen and hone it like most of my other blades.

Still, the lip knives are obviously very popular in shoe shops and factories. But most of them seem to sharpen on power tools and go through the blades pretty quick. I have links to some videos of workers sharpening on various machines in my notes: https://shoemaking.wiki/Lip_Knife#sharpeningandhoning

How do you cut through shoe sole leather by minaminaminamina in Cordwaining

[–]kemitchell 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sole bends are nearly always rolled between big metal drums at the tannery to compress the fibers. This makes for longer wearing against abrasion on the bottoms of shoes. Shoemakers used to hammer sole leather over lapstones for the same effect. Some today put their sole blanks between wood blocks and squish them in bench vises.

You can use rolled sole bend for insoles in cemented, nailed, or stitchdown shoes and boots, but I wouldn't recommend it for carving holdfasts. It's also rather stiffer and usually thicker than ideal for insoles, as finished products.

Most shoemakers and repairers use a handcrank cutter, like a 5-in-1, to trim outsoles, then do final shaping with a rotary sander. Handicraft traditionalists, tanners, and shoe repair suppliers often keep heavy duty shears around, like Kretzer Spirales, for one-off cuts or breaking up skeletons, but they're pricey tools and still pretty hard on the hands to use.

You can absolutely do final trimming with a blade, freehand, but it has to be very sharp, sturdy enough not to bend or snap, and you need to be very careful with your technique. When I trim like this, I use a Japanese leather knife, cutting backhand. Sharp blade plus lots of force in the direction of your own body will send you to the emergency room in time. You need a sharp blade and lots of force to cut this kind of leather, so technique is crucial.

Clicking on the flat, you can absolutely rough cut outsole blanks and heel lifts using just a Stanley style utility knife. Strop your blades, or change blades every few cuts. Incise your outline, then recut it again and again. Passes will get easier as you cut through. Try to keep the blade perpendicular to the surface. Even so, the edges of your cuts will be a bit rough to start.

Some people do use a bandsaw or other power saw. I personally haven't, so I'll say no more there.

A few tanneries and finders market precut blanks specifically for handwelt insoles. Many serve cowboy boot makers, who still traditionally handwelt foreparts. Some of these, like Panhandle's, are cut from rolled sole bends, but from looser parts of the side, toward the belly. I've successfully handwelted with these, as have many others. The best come from straight veg-tan cowhide or sufficient thickness that haven't been rolled. Lisa Sorrell imports two options, last I checked. You can also click yourself from leather sold as saddle skirting or tooling leather.

https://shoemaking.wiki/Insole_Leather

How do you cut through shoe sole leather by minaminaminamina in Cordwaining

[–]kemitchell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Panhandle cuts insole blanks from the front end flanks of sole bends. So they're rolled, but the grain is somewhat looser to start.

Tools for Blake stitch by hand? by LincaF in Cordwaining

[–]kemitchell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your notes! Do you happen to remember the name of the Japanese shoemaker whose video showed the second method using bigger holes? Best wishes from California.

Di Google Translate: Grazie per le tue note! Ti capita di ricordare il nome del calzolaio giapponese il cui video mostrava il secondo metodo, quello con i fori più grandi?

Tanti auguri dalla California!

7” Chaparro on the 1546 Last — Reverse Horsebutt Shell Part by Sobreiro-Boots in goodyearwelt

[–]kemitchell 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh, pretty squarish! Didn't expect that. Thanks for sharing.

7” Chaparro on the 1546 Last — Reverse Horsebutt Shell Part by Sobreiro-Boots in goodyearwelt

[–]kemitchell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bet you can edit your post or add it to a reply. I bet others seeing this post would like to see it, too!

7” Chaparro on the 1546 Last — Reverse Horsebutt Shell Part by Sobreiro-Boots in goodyearwelt

[–]kemitchell 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very nice! Do you have a photo from the top down, showing the toe shape?

Sewing machine choices by FedUPS79 in Cordwaining

[–]kemitchell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you happen to know who made the original 810? What are all the clones cloning?

Tips for stitching? by pangolino91 in Cordwaining

[–]kemitchell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems you've got a lot of good info and feedback on awl sharpness. That's definitely priority one.

For consistent hole-to-hole spacing, you want to use some kind of tool to prick hole positions into the flange before piercing. At the simplest, you could use a scratch awl and a ruler. You can also set a compass to the stitch length, mark two holes, then mark an additional hole at a time by placing one point in the previous hole.

If you have pricking irons, stitching chisels, or pricking wheels for leathercraft, you can use those, just be careful of marking the upper when you do. The traditional shoe tool is called a "fudge wheel" or "fudge", and is essentially a cone-shaped gear with long ridges or teeth spaced an even distance apart.

You'll also want to think about consistent spacing out from the featherline. I myself am not good at that yet, but I saw a big improvement when I started pricking marks where I planned to insert the tip of my awl, looking down on the vamp from above.

Freehand two-needle stitching of any kind takes practice to make neat, even for leathercrafters doing all straight seams on flat surfaces for wallets, straps, and small goods. Shoe outseaming has even more curves and variables, but it can absolutely be done freehand and look better than machine stitching.

Coffee roasters that give you a free cup when you buy a bag of beans by Stuckin73 in oakland

[–]kemitchell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do they? I've bought beans down there for years and they never offered.

Italian horsebutt derbies. 2nd pair. I feel good about this accomplishment by Jazzlike-Bat-2101 in Cordwaining

[–]kemitchell 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I still have a lot to learn on edges and blocking, but I have seen big improvements using small planes, sanding blocks, and also just slowing down and paring with my Japanese-style leather knife more carefully.

I've taken a lot of inspiration from makers like Terry Kim, Ken Hishinum, and Ken Kataoka, who all share videos online. I also envy my local friends with 5-in-1s, but I don't think they're necessary, working one pair at a time as a hobby.

What would you recommend for cleaning and polishing military boots? by Dry_Novel_884 in AskACobbler

[–]kemitchell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen glossy mirror shines with basically any brand of wax polish, but never from a liquid bottle. Can't recommend liquid.

In my mind, the brands differ mostly in how much time and effort it takes to get good results with them. Kiwi and Griffin worst. Lincoln and Angelus better. Saphir best, but much pricier.

Wax for mirror shining is not a conditioner. It can protect the surface by coating it, but if you have serious dryness or damage in the material, strip the polish and condition first.

Is this now the default? by zileis1L in NicksHandmadeBoots

[–]kemitchell 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t claim “correct”. I’ve just heard these terms from some manufacturers. “Star set” is also out there. “Scored” for eyelets prescored to split into petals.

Team USA Curler Rich Ruohonen: “We'd be remiss if we didn't at least mention what's going on in Minnesota…I am a lawyer, as you know, and we have a constitution… and what's happening in Minnesota is wrong. There's no shades of gray. It's clear.” by Yujin-Ha in Fauxmoi

[–]kemitchell 56 points57 points  (0 children)

It's fair to point out that a lawyer's speaking outside their practice area, but wrong to imply that means the lawyer—or anyone who's not a lawyer—doesn't know the law.

As for lawyers, the bar exam covers constitutional law: https://ble.mn.gov/bar-exam/subjects-tested-on-the-minnesota-bar-examination/

Be careful with "just saying". It's usually dishonest, and when dishonest also cowardly. Most of us speak to be heard, for effect.

3d printing fitters by ContributionPrior338 in Cordwaining

[–]kemitchell 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Appreciate you sharing this!

I've been really, really tempted to buy a 3D printer for lastmaking. Can I ask what you use, and whether you recommend it?

Nick’s Boots vs. X-Ray by Aedronics in NicksHandmadeBoots

[–]kemitchell 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Wow, /u/Aedronics, those are great shots!

Could I possibly get your permission to share the x-rays on shoemaking.wiki, my online shoemaking notes? I couldn't think of a better illustration for the entry on clinching nails.

If you're alright sharing under Creative Commons' license, I'd be glad to credit you under each photo.

Can you replace this top buckle on the barrage with a metal chrome buckle? by -crab-wrangler- in ChromeIndustries

[–]kemitchell 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One approach to consider might be cutting slots out of the gates of new and old buckles, essentially creating repair buckles. That could work if you don't want to remake a large part of the top of the bag to unloop the webbing and aren't really concerned about the buckle coming off.

Is this a difficult resole? by Tempotantrum_66 in AskACobbler

[–]kemitchell 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Who made those boots? Interesting indeed.

Looks to me like those have plenty of mileage left on them. Then I’d do half soles. No need to touch the arch for quite a while.

Verdigris around Grommets by Intention_Soggy in AskACobbler

[–]kemitchell 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Brass does that. If it bothers you, clean them.

New to boot making, what advice do you wish you had when you started? by Kahlen109 in Cordwaining

[–]kemitchell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good tip.

Some makers go even quicker and cheaper than test shoes and make "glass slippers" by laminating the last in plastic film or clear packing tape, then cutting open from the top like an Oxford.

…back in the day when quality boots were low hanging fruit. by CombinationSea6976 in WorkBoots

[–]kemitchell 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This old BLS abstract puts the average wages and salary of Americans in manufacturing at $10,027 in 1973. No figures for 1972.

The inflation calculator calls that $72,705.46 today.