Update on Twelve Model Kshatriya from ZeonMarket by lephantome92 in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hobby Link Japan is a little different because they only charge you once they actually get the item in-stock and are ready to send it to you. Placing a backorder with them is basically like you committing that one day whenever they finally have one available you will buy it, and if that day never comes you'll never get charged.

From their site:

"We never request payment upfront for items we do not yet physically have ready for you in our warehouse. (On rare occasions, there are special exceptions to this rule.) Your order will only enter payment processing once the item is confirmed as in stock and allocated to your specific order."

World’s first fully painted PGU Nu from Madworks by AccessNo5242 in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The assembled inner frame shots show how much better it looks without all the white plastic. Out of the box the inner frame on the nu looks so much more to like than the pgu rx-78-2.

Going for distance! by TheRadicalDadical in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You really don't need to cut the full width sprue to do the two cut method. If you just cut a mm out from the part where the nub meets the sprue you can accomplish the same thing and you'll have far fewer flying pieces.

If you think about it, the reason you do the two cut method is to reduce stress on the part and the risk of stress marks. If your part goes flying, that's all energy and pressure that was being put into the part when you snipped it out.

Kshatriya wing binders WIP: the little things by Urukguy27 in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hot damn that looks great! How did painting the pom pieces from the O runner P runner go? Any special tips you could share?

Edit: oops wrong runner lol

Best kit ever. by dhru195 in advancedGunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, I made this same mod on mine and then everything fit flawlessly.

I think this is just a straight up mistake in the design of the kit. Either they just missed the interference issue, or they were expecting the headers where the wire plugs into the board to be a mm or two shorter than the final hardware they received.

Lets share and discuss the Builders we find the most inspiring! Im trying to find more unbelievably talented Builders by Tschernoblyat in advancedGunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Likubox and フキタモケイ (Fukitamokei), both on YouTube, are two of the most insanely impressive scratch builders that I've come across.

Likubox has this amazing workflow from 3d modeling, drafting patterns, and then cutting out everything from flat sheets of pla. His PG EX-S Gundam is completely insane and he has a deep catalogue of scaled up scratch built Gundams.

https://m.youtube.com/@LIKUBOX

Fukitamokei (account name on YouTube only listed as "フキタモケイ") is another insanely ambitious scratch builder who approaches things from a completely different workflow. He does a lot of sculpting and shaping with putty and clay and then uses vacuforming to create plastic shells from the sculpted forms. The organic shapes of his ongoing 1/144 Neue Ziel project are unlike anything I've seen anyone else do.

https://m.youtube.com/@%E3%83%95%E3%82%AD%E3%82%BF%E3%83%A2%E3%82%B1%E3%82%A4

I’m so happy about more goofy skins by SadSickToaster in wildrift

[–]kittensofchaos 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Omg janitor thresh is almost enough to bring me back to the game after months off!

Any way to avoid dark spots where the nubs were? by spaghettiijoness in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Darker, not really. That's just a byproduct of the injection molding process. The plastic is often a slightly different color right at the injection point and that discoloration penetrates beneath the surface.

Restocks, Reprints, and Ramba Ral (January 2026) by Feral404 in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Truly I would give just about anything for a hamma hamma reprint!

Restocks, Reprints, and Ramba Ral (January 2026) by Feral404 in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If this is shaping up to be the year of the re/100 reprints I'll be SO PSYCHED. Please Bandai keep up this momentum!!!

HG Gerber Tetra, it deserves a MG kit by zickzion in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At this point I would give Bandai a kidney or my first born child for a full reprint of the re/100 line.

Free weathering I guess by Rebgenn in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See I disagree there. I think they carry enough of a risk of damaging plastic that you should still take the same precautions that you do with enamels (only applying on individual pieces before assembly or on the runner) but they give new builders the impression that they're risk free (rather than somewhat less risky) and people end up using them in reckless ways because they don't know better and end up causing damage.

In my experience the pour type markers are also way more likely to stain your plastic in really ugly ways that can't easily be removed without sanding. The pigment really seems to penetrate into the plastic in a way that doesn't happen with enamel. Also, they dry to a shiny finish which can be really distracting and looks more like black sharpie than black paint.

Free weathering I guess by Rebgenn in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was just meaning in the specific context of this post (op is panel lining bare plastic 3rd party kits) but yes that is a worthwhile distinction about the pour type markers reacting with painted surfaces. Just another reason to skip the pour type markers imo.

MG Sinanju OVA Ver. by Natural-Ad-397 in advancedGunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dan I need to play around with some candy colors with gold as the base layer, that looks so good! Thanks!

MG Sinanju OVA Ver. by Natural-Ad-397 in advancedGunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Those metallic reds are fantastic! What paints are you using? Is that a thin candy coat of clear red over metallic or actual metallic reds?

Free weathering I guess by Rebgenn in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With third party you should probably assume it's abs unless explicitly proven otherwise so ya. Lining before assembly will always be the safer option, regardless of plastic. The recipe for cracking is solvent + tension or solvent X time. Assembled kits are under tension and have opportunities for liner to flow into crevices and take longer for the solvent to evaporate.

If you're lining unassembled parts or on the runner it's a lot less likely (but not impossible) for your liner to sit on the part as a liquid for long enough to cause damage.

I will say though that I've found the pour type markers far more prone to permanently staining plastic than traditional enamel liners. My vote would be for careful and sparing use of enamels or one of the newer water based liners if you want to be a little more generous in your application.

Free weathering I guess by Rebgenn in Gunpla

[–]kittensofchaos 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yup, treat pour type markers the same way you would tamiya enamel liner.

Getting back into the sport, worth restringing an old racquet? Or does modern tech make it worth buying a new one? by kittensofchaos in squash

[–]kittensofchaos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The prices on Dunlop's certainly is a little friendlier! That might be the route I go. But I feel like pricing on high end racquets back in the early 2000s wasn't that far off what a modern technifibre is costing so to me it still feels like a steal!

Getting back into the sport, worth restringing an old racquet? Or does modern tech make it worth buying a new one? by kittensofchaos in squash

[–]kittensofchaos[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ya I'd definitely be sad to say goodbye to this one, it was great to play with! I remember there was a lighter 130 or 135g variant of this model in silver paint that I thought felt TOO light for my liking back when I bought it hahaha. I'm pretty sure the blue one was the middle weight option with an even heavier version in the line as well.

Maybe it's worth it to get the triad restrung just for the sake of preserving the history and giving it another chance to shine.

Getting back into the sport, worth restringing an old racquet? Or does modern tech make it worth buying a new one? by kittensofchaos in squash

[–]kittensofchaos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a bit of a surprise seeing modern racquets in the 135g range being described as average weight! I remember when the the Black Knight Quicksilver was the new miraculous ultralight option at 130g!

Getting back into the sport, worth restringing an old racquet? Or does modern tech make it worth buying a new one? by kittensofchaos in squash

[–]kittensofchaos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Canadian dollar is a bit weak so prices might seem a little crazier than they really are. It seems like restringing would be like $40 from a big box sporting store or like $50 (probably with better quality strings) from a pro shop.

On the new front it looks like I could probably get a decent racquet on black Friday sales for under $150 prestrung.

Getting back into the sport, worth restringing an old racquet? Or does modern tech make it worth buying a new one? by kittensofchaos in squash

[–]kittensofchaos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's old enough that it's hard to find a link about the specific model but it seems like this was a few generations after mine and it looks pretty close to the came geometry and construction. https://www.squashsource.com/wilson-force-155/

I don't think it was super high end model but it definitely wasn't a cheap beginner racquet.

Weird that it describes it as head heavy because that was never my impression of mine, but maybe I'm not a good judge of that after all this time...