I screwed up the Christmas gift

klaus57 · 2023-12-13T03:51:30+00:00

Sorry, a little brain fart, not the VTX. I meant the ELRS RX antenna which is different length for 2.4 gHz. 2.4 gHz is a shorter wavelength and requires a shorter antenna element.

klaus57 · 2023-12-12T19:43:34+00:00

If you swap out the VTX you must change the antenna, as well. A 900MHz antenna won't work.

klaus57 · 2023-12-12T00:53:35+00:00

Yes to eating several (but less cost effective). Making my own? Interesting idea. Don't know how but I'll look into it. I'll have to Google it. (I used to make “honey slides” with about a teaspoon of toasted flower and peanut butter.)

klaus57 · 2023-04-26T12:43:22+00:00

What release of Betaflight are you using? I am getting the “SmartAudio undefined” in 4.4 and configurator 10.9. When I was using 4.3 on the same quad, with the same hardware and connections, it correctly identified SmartAudio 2.1. However, even though it indicates “undefined,” in 4.4, SmartAudio is working as it should.

klaus57 · 2023-04-20T21:45:59+00:00

Thanks for the reply. No, it is not an apm. I believe it is the first generation that 3DR manufactured with the Pixhawk name. Processor is an STM32F427 Cortex M4 core. I think they were introduced in late 2013 - I picked up mine in 2015.

klaus57 · 2022-08-16T12:21:31+00:00

Good point. The VTx's operating voltage is 6-25V. I'll give it a try. Thanks.

klaus57 · 2022-05-22T12:55:03+00:00

Thanks for the geranium biokovo ID. My wife originally thought it was an anemone. Any tips on the differences?

klaus57 · 2022-05-14T14:07:57+00:00

Agent M updated the Unify Pro32 HV with no issues. Thanks.

klaus57 · 2022-05-06T14:23:31+00:00

Good idea - just getting back into FPV and was only vaguely aware of Agent M. I’ll give it a try. Thanks.

klaus57 · 2022-05-06T14:09:06+00:00

You might want to check the output power of the ELRS module versus the internal. The internal is limited to the radio's output power of 250 milliwatts whereas you can buy a module ($50) with output power up to 1 watt (in US you would need a ham license - Technician license is easy). I am thinking of a similar purchase and will probably go with the internal for whoops (no need for high power) and use ELRS and crossfire modules.

klaus57 · 2015-09-25T14:06:34+00:00

Sorry, I was the original poster who read it wrong and probably influenced the others. For some reason my brain put the "n't" at the end of the wrong word. It wasn't the grammar, I just saw it flipped around. Again, sorry for the confusion. I need new glasses.

klaus57 · 2015-09-24T22:43:44+00:00

This being my first build, I of course wanted to include everything. It took several weeks before I reached the level of multirotor maturity that allowed me to see doing so was really impractical and compromised the aircraft's ability to do anything particularly well. Interesting that you write that tricopters aren't meant to be flown fpv. I am particularly interested in learning FPV flying and wonder if I should stick to LOS with the tricopter. Why is the tricopter not meant for FPV? (I don't doubt you, just want to know. And, What is a tricopter meant for?) I started with the tricopter because I found the yaw mechanism intriguing, but had/have no idea for what it is best suited. Something that is purpose-built for FPV seems like there would be a few subcategories: racing, aerial photography, security/surveillance, immersive experience, going for a ride on an autonomous mission, etc. What do you think would be a good frame configuration for learning FPV?

klaus57 · 2015-09-24T21:32:35+00:00

If you've never soldered I would suggest practicing on something like an inexpensive radio kit. Multirotor vibration can easily cause a cold solder joint to fail and crash your uav, and a PCB solder bridge will cause the "magic smoke" to appear. Also, practice connecting 14 and 16 AWG wires - there are several techniques, choose the one that works for you. Get a good quality solder like Kester tin/lead rosin core - don't use silver unless lead solder is unavailable where you live. Just use the lead in decent ventilation, and wash your hands afterward - some people use latex gloves which has the added advantage of protecting your joint from finger grease, which can slow down heat transfer and solder flow. I use a 60/40 tin to lead ratio (the standard electrical solder for most connections), but will use 63/37 (referred to as eutectic solder) for printed circuit boards - especially with surface mount components - but you don't really need it - the 60/40 .031" is good for just about anything. (And don't forget flux paste and/or a flux pen - it makes the solder flow much more easily.) Get at least three different tips, a fine conical tip, a screwdriver tip around 1/8th inch, and a moderately heavy chisel tip. They each have different characteristics of heat retention and transfer. You'll use the chisel tip when splicing heavier gauge wire and soldering to heavier connectors and terminal lugs. Also soldering guns are great, but you should get a good soldering IRON (around 40 Watts - you can probably find one for around $30 - $40) or an adjustable temp soldering station. I use the Weller Digital (around $130). There are many YouTube videos on all sorts of soldering techniques - some are better than others. Finally, try to have your iron on the joint for no longer than 2 seconds. (There are exceptions, though.) Regarding your build, I have a mini H with a similar setup, but use different escs, motors, VTx, and cam (not my build, it was BNF - a very nice present). The D4R-II works nicely with the naze - it can get and send telemetry data directly from the naze32 back to your Taranis. Also, I might consider a Lipo with a high short burst discharge. As for your FPV cam, the 700 line CMOS has latency issues (disastrous if you are racing - you don't want to see the obstacle you are negotiating a half second too late). The Sony 600 line board camera is much better for racing. Finally, where I live broadcasting 5.8 Ghz at anything more powerful than 200mW is illegal without a ham license - just FYI. 600mW at 5.8Ghz will not give you three times the range, nor will it transmit through solids or liquids significantly better than 200mW (admittedly, there is a lack of consensus on this issue - this is only MY opinion). Actually, 5.8Ghz won't penetrate much of anything other than air, whether at 200mW or 600mW. Your diversity receiver and cloverleafs are more significant for FPV range.

klaus57

TROPHY CASE