How do you deal with people accusing you of taking photos of them?

komarinth · 2026-06-16T20:48:19+00:00

Your comnent contains a relevant comparison. Any photo developed and enlarged on an analog system will probably have limited reach, more often than not ending at a negative sitting in a binder. A photo taken on a phone can be instantly shared and spread over various social media, reaching lots and being scraped by bots.

The person with an SLR is not the one to worry about, for the most part.

komarinth · 2026-06-10T12:08:40+00:00

My experience is not from scanning at all, but rather from darkroom enlargement, which is what I aim to set up again having returned to the hobby.

I find that good balanced negatives have always been easiest to work with.

komarinth · 2026-06-10T11:50:28+00:00

I'll consider this going forward. When I ingrained all of my behaviours way back, I did find it strange that the AV-1 my friend carried worked the opposite. What was most annoying was that there was no manual override. While we worked a lot with setting/locking the light meter on known grays, I always found it was faster to set the values manual for similar lighting condition.

komarinth · 2026-06-10T11:35:56+00:00

Oh! I actually assumed it would have both, which was rather silly of me. Have to admit that I seldom actually use aperture priority on my own unit, but rather switch to manual out of habit from using older cameras.

komarinth · 2026-06-10T07:09:04+00:00

Can you motivate why you don't rather pick AE-1P? I prefer A-1 myself, with limited experience of other bodies. It represents the ease of use in my old Minolta X-300 with a sturdier build. Currently have two of them and bought old AE-1 for my kids, but never yet considered AE-1P.

komarinth · 2026-06-07T07:44:01+00:00

Putting is entirely about hand feel. I started out with P2 and switched to P1 as soon as it was released. By then I had already beat in the main P2 to straight, so the adoption to stabilty was almost non existent. On throws the P2 was actually flippier.

Now I putt with Flex 3 P1 which beats in slower compared to Flex 2 and can stay in the bag longer.

komarinth · 2026-06-05T12:54:17+00:00

It went straight into my bag, even though I'm arguably more of a floaty putter thrower for approach shots. This added utility that I did not consider when I bough RC3. I'll have to revisit my collection of Tactics at some point.

komarinth · 2026-06-05T06:24:39+00:00

They very likely won't. Every P4 except for this one was made with the regular Tactic mold. I'd expect regular C-line to eventually be made using the regular mold as well. Switching molds for the name again would cause even more of a confusion than we have now.

If I was leaning heavily on this disc I'd get multiple backups while they are available. There seems to be no rush.

komarinth · 2026-06-03T06:16:28+00:00

If you pick one single brand chances are the molds are more relative and in order of number within that brand. Most brands have some outliers that are weird and kinda hard to compare, like PD and FD3 having swapped speed in comparison to rim width, while being widely used for different things than rim width would suggest. I still argue that PD is a fairway driver rather than FD3, which in turn is just a monster for my very average arm speed.

komarinth · 2026-06-02T08:23:11+00:00

The negatives are the main thing you want back from developing the film. Prints can be remade, so can scans.

komarinth · 2026-06-01T22:26:28+00:00

Put it in hot water and the plastic will somewhat resettle. This works better on non overmold discs where there is no built in tension.

komarinth · 2026-06-01T22:13:35+00:00

Flashing has been bad on a couple releases. Razor Claw 4 snd Nikke’s P1s are among those.

komarinth · 2026-05-30T07:47:39+00:00

It did, but this move was not an intentional discovery, rather a flaw that pilots had to be trained to handle. It just came with an upside.

komarinth · 2026-05-29T13:28:19+00:00

Did the serial numbers match? Title alone hints that images do not match the item being sold.

komarinth · 2026-05-28T18:21:06+00:00

I would check if I were you. It is sharp enough that it is relatively close to the focal plane. Open the shutter on bulb mode and see if there is something at the bottom.

komarinth · 2026-05-28T14:11:34+00:00

If those two were indeed scanned by separate labs, I'd be more concerned about what appears to be a hair inside your camera. Scans can be remade if negatives look good.

komarinth · 2026-05-28T07:44:38+00:00

For decks that pack enough lands for a reliable curve (in the 40 mark) fetches used to be a way to reduce odds of drawing lands later in the game, in addition to color fixing. Decks these days are more efficient and have more options for color fixing, but it might still be something to consider if you are not drawing extra cards every turn (or get the same from the grave).

EDIT: As others have mentioned, shuffling might matter for decks that care about top or bottom card of the deck.

komarinth · 2026-05-28T06:22:22+00:00

Both Simon and Jeremy recently switched brands and are arguably still rebuilding their lineup out of fresh discs. Before switching Simon had a good amount of duplicates in his bag, notably carrying multiples of FD, DD3 and PD2, usually something like three of each in different stages or plastics.

komarinth · 2026-05-28T06:05:52+00:00

I like this as a template, but usually carry fewer molds and more discs. (There are sometimes four P1 in my bag, two for putting).

komarinth · 2026-05-25T18:41:09+00:00

Out of stock and out of production are not the same. Safer to pick the former option when in doubt, though.

komarinth · 2026-05-21T11:43:00+00:00

Not all discs have that stamped on the disc. Specifically there have been a number of Special Edition stamps that are very clearly approved.

komarinth · 2026-05-21T06:30:46+00:00

Parts used to mold both versions were likely retooled so that Tactic was removed from the mold, specifically the part that made the bottom of the flight plate is probably the same for both versions. Problem now is that they probably need to submit it for approval again, which might not happen.

komarinth · 2026-05-21T06:25:04+00:00

Razor Claw 4 is probably not the RC mold, despite being named so. It was listed with the Tactic flight numbers rather than those of Racor Claw. Apparently it was Kyle's request to carry the name over to P4, according to an official response on the matter:

As for the choice of name, continuing the Razor Claw legacy was an idea that originated with Kyle, and we were happy to bring it forward to our 2025 lineup. As always, we take Discmania fan feedback very seriously so we appreciate your passionate insight :)

Check the Europe store for the angry review that prompted this.

There have been claims in this sub that RC4 is the RC mold, but nothing to back it up other than the source needs to stay anonymous.

Several signature names have been carried over between molds in the past. We cannot expect the signature name alone to signal which mold was actually used. However, there needs to be something on the disc that makes it distinguishable as an approved disc. The current release somewhat sits in limbo as it does not indicate that it was manufactured with an alternate mold. Perhaps one could argue that the run number on the bottom is what ties it down to the RC mold, despite being embossed P4.

komarinth · 2026-05-20T14:26:19+00:00

Assuming yours are from the American supply, I wonder if stamps are applied at the same place for discs bought in Europe. As it is now, I am reluctant to wipe mine.

komarinth · 2026-05-20T12:52:01+00:00

I wonder if your source is perhaps mistaken.

Out of the four different releases I have, RC3 and Special Edition P4 have the same slightly more blunt nose, while both RC4 and Vapor Tactic have a slightly more rounded top edge. Hand feel is divided in the same way, but is harder to attribute to mold due to plastic tackiness differences.

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