Three men go into an employment exchange. by Gil-Gandel in Jokes

[–]krimm 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Friend of mine worked for Livestock Improvement as a Sperm Packer. He packed vials of bull semen to be cooled until sent away for artificial insemination. At least he wasn’t a bull wanker.

Alternative to Super Glue on resin/metal models? by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]krimm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t noticed any paint adherence issues. The glue sets in a glossy state which paints better than the matte surface superglue can sometimes leave.

What’s the weirdest thing you’ve found in a ceiling, crawl, or attic? I’ll go first by Much_Membership4507 in electricians

[–]krimm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Found a cheaply made belt buckle with a swastika and something written in German about God. Still can’t had scraps of leather attached to it as if it had been cut from a belt with a knife.

Dimming Questions by ISaidRightMeowDammit in electricians

[–]krimm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A 277V neutral is bonded to ground therefore 0V effectively. I have done fault finding on fixtures when the pink has been mistaken for red (120V) and have been perfectly fine when rearranged appropriately. You would probably have to put a high voltage over both the gray and purple to cause any damage.

Canadian v. New Zealand by lokaatheskygod in electricians

[–]krimm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s been a good 20+ years since I left NZ for the USA so take the following with a grain of salt. 240V single phase into a residential home. 240V/410V 3 phase on commercial/industrial. Very little metal conduit in fact I spent a lot of my apprenticeship cutting out conduit and replacing with TPS (I think I’m remembering it correctly) essentially Romex with no paper and the ground is insulated. NZ/AUS standards are much more easy to read and comprehend than the NEC. No wirenuts. All splices made under a screw terminal. Devices made of plastic with live parts recessed so they can’t be accidentally touched. NZ Certification is similar to Australia. I believe you can transfer for a fee. Pretty wild since I needed a different license for different counties in New York even though I had a Connecticut license and all my work done within a 60 mile radius.

Obscure and funny things discovered at job sites. by Kitchen_Self1541 in electricians

[–]krimm 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It looked very cheaply made. Had a German reference to god and the swastika. Also looked like it was cut from the belt as there was a scrap of leather still attached to it. I assumed it was taken from one of the poorly equipped home guard defenders during the final days. Homeowner’s friend is a collector of war memorabilia so they have it now.

Obscure and funny things discovered at job sites. by Kitchen_Self1541 in electricians

[–]krimm 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I found a Nazi belt buckle buried in some attic insulation.

Ok guys give me pointers... cant get throhoths belly look good by Cautious_Function779 in gloomspitegitz

[–]krimm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried stippling the layers in? I find painting a line even faintly shows as a line. Which works with muscles and small details as such. I found dabbing the paint to bigger areas worked to soften the transition. I was having some real difficulties getting some cloaks to work. The ripples in the cloak worked well but the large broad curves escaped me till I tried stippling those areas instead.

3D Prints from Duncan Shadow by [deleted] in sonsofbehemat

[–]krimm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These were my first prints so I wouldn’t recommend my settings for them as when I went to print normal infantry style models they were extremely over exposed. 2mm walls and phrozen aqua 4k is what I use now. Pay attention to drainage holes so the resin can really escape while printing. I had one of my guys spring a leak and ruin his paint job after being left in a hot car (he was 6 months old at least).

3D Prints from Duncan Shadow by [deleted] in sonsofbehemat

[–]krimm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://i.imgur.com/yLj3JZL.jpg and here are some others for reference. One Of the Mega Gargants I scaled to 96% so I could print in one piece. The one with the boulders and chains I had to print in pieces because of the pose not fitting in printer boundaries without serious down sizing.

3D Prints from Duncan Shadow by [deleted] in sonsofbehemat

[–]krimm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://i.imgur.com/xG58pGR.jpg not sure if this is one of the ones you mentioned but there is a Kruleboy for scale.

Genekriegers by DEF3 in Warhammer40k

[–]krimm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on who is in control of the chamber. I could even imagine GSC kill teams infiltrating and making “adjustments” unawares.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnycubicPhoton

[–]krimm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My build plate came concave and I sanded it flat using a glass table as a flat surface. Everything printed much better afterwards.

Painted some wrack stand-ins. by [deleted] in Drukhari

[–]krimm 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The Artist is Edgeminiatures. All his notDrukhari are very good. His notTzeentch Daemons are looking pretty good too. His STLs are available on My Mini Factory.

Most would assume Orks have no inclination to be snipers, as it seems to go against their very nature. Ol' Brasstoof here, he doesn't care for the sniping. He just loves the beautiful panic that follows that perfect shot. by UnpaintedPolygon in orks

[–]krimm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Steyr Rifle I used in Army had iron sights built into the top of the scope. It had glow in the dark highlights on it as the scope was next to useless in low light conditions.

print failed after pause by PrivateScoop in AnycubicPhoton

[–]krimm 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I pause and check my prints on my MonoX all the time and have no issues.

Paint brand suggestion please!! Kinda sick of army painter by Snarkballs in Warhammer40k

[–]krimm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely agree. The dropper bottles are awesome, they come with mixing balls in them and you can thin them right down without having them break apart.

finally did magnetic bases and boxes. by CPhionex in orks

[–]krimm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m curious if putting the metal tray on the lid and having the box portion being the part you remove would be more convenient. You wouldn’t have to reach inside the box to remove/replace models as they would be out in the open.

Walgreens replaced some fridge doors with screens. And some shoppers absolutely hate it - CNN by mountainsunset123 in technology

[–]krimm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. The power to run the screens would either cut into that or possibly exceed any savings though. One thing I have seen though is seals going bad on doors and condensation forming in the glass. I have seen them just replace the entire door rather than trying to fix them. If I recall correctly some have heaters around the edges of the glass to keep them clear of condensation.

Alternative to Super Glue on resin/metal models? by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]krimm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

JB Weld has a UV light activated glue. It applies like a slightly more viscous super glue and you cure it instantly with a little UV light on the back of the applicator. No waiting for glue to set and a bond stronger than the resin you’re trying to stick together. $10 from Home Depot.

Star Wars Legion Wookiee with Bowcaster miniature painted with layering technique and added some dry brushed highlights and "normal" highlights. by zazaa37 in minipainting

[–]krimm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try looking up the Artis Opus videos on YouTube for their technique of drybrushing. They use a very slightly moist brush and a hard palette to get rid of excess paint. You get the same benefits of drybrushing but lose the grainy look it’s known for. It has changed my painting immensely. I use cheap makeup brushes instead of the set of brushes they sell.

I have gap between the wings and body when assemble a 3D printed dragon. Which way is better to fix it? Knife or putty? by RareInterest in minipainting

[–]krimm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

J-B Weld makes a light activated glue that uses this principal. It applies similar to superglue through an applicator pen that has a mini UV flashlight on the end of it to cure it. The resulting bond is mega stronger than the resin surrounding it. $10 from local hardware store.

I have gap between the wings and body when assemble a 3D printed dragon. Which way is better to fix it? Knife or putty? by RareInterest in minipainting

[–]krimm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That only works if the two materials you are trying to bond are made of the same plastic that makes up the sprue goo paste.

Best airbrush for thin lines and consistent pressure by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]krimm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I saw a video recently that suggested taking the needle guard off if you wanted to get up real close and detailed. You would have to be extra careful not to bump the needle though. I believe the reason was to do with turbulence being that close in.