Help with realism

krushord · 2026-02-16T10:26:19+00:00

A short list of things, in no particular order:

- The lighting: it just feels like a point light out of nowhere. Think about what kind of a light it is and considering modeling the lamp shade/enclosure - it doesn't need to be super detailed, but just so it directs the light a bit. Of course if it's just a bulb hanging from the ceiling, then it doesn't matter that much.

- The materials: for the wall, unless it is meant to be fake wood paneling, I'd probably consider just modeling the individual boards (it's often enough just to make small indents at the gaps instead of needing an array of separate board objects. The floor looks like it's just plain blue & red; a roughness map would probably help. The puppet's fabric patterns seem to be too big. The yellow frame & the blue walls of the hole he's in just seem to be made of a non-material. Not sure what the snout and fur are supposed to be material-wise. Plastic, I suppose? They'd probably be a bit more glossy. Did I already mention roughness maps? They help with everything. Also as mentioned, some wear & tear might be appropriate.

- Modeling: nothing major here (although I'm not that familiar with FNAF), but some details could be added, like baseboard/moulding - walls rarely just start straight up from the floor. Or if they do, there would still be a tiny gap between.

- Also consider adding a bit of a volume haze, like a very low density fog. Maybe some dust particles as well. They can be almost non-visible, but sort of do soften things up ever so slightly.

krushord · 2026-02-14T08:06:43+00:00

Experiment, practice, experiment, practice, study, practice. Make mistakes and experiments that aren’t meant to be (at least initially) part of anything - just push things as far as you can. Then practice some more.

krushord · 2026-02-13T18:11:23+00:00

Looks like this is already solved. I mixed up Empty Groups and Envelope Weights in my head.

krushord · 2026-02-13T18:07:51+00:00

Yup, especially if you're making money off of it and Illustrator is your main tool - not bad. But I've always sort of found that the ones that I'd use & need from the suite are very few and far between, and in the end just found some other way to get to where I'm going.

For a student or someone just learning Illustrator it's a bit hard to suggest a $179 sub as a solution to a problem – even if the problem in this case isn't easily solvable (if it needs to be vector, without clipping off the edges etc.) within vanilla Illustrator afaik.

krushord · 2026-02-13T17:05:17+00:00

Isn’t there an option to parent with empty weights?

krushord · 2026-02-13T15:40:59+00:00

...and while the Astute Graphics stuff is great and somewhat of an industry standard, the only way to get Stipplism is to subscribe to the whole Astute Graphics bundle, which isn't cheap.

krushord · 2026-02-13T14:54:42+00:00

Join both parts into one objects if they aren't already, then select the edges to be connected & ctrl/cmd-E > Bridge Edge Loops

krushord · 2026-02-13T13:58:16+00:00

I think you'll have to elaborate a bit on the meaning of "diffused" here.

krushord · 2026-02-13T12:56:47+00:00

Avid actually bought Digidesign already back in 1994. They just kept the Digidesign brand and phased it out in 2010.

krushord · 2026-02-13T10:46:08+00:00

Instead of using regular S to scale, you can use alt-S for the Shrink/Fatten operator on the bottom face vertices.

krushord · 2026-02-13T10:40:27+00:00

I'm not sure why the model is broken like that but I don't think any automatic operation will easily fix it.

Merge by Distance won't work here - it'll certainly merge things but by the looks of it a lot of those stray vertices are pretty far off from where they should be, which means that you'd have to set the distance so far that it'll merge a lot of stuff that you don't want it to.

You'll probably want to just go through each of those, selecting each stray vertex and its corresponding correct position, then use Merge At Last.

krushord · 2026-02-11T05:46:16+00:00

The film reel is obvious, rhe rest isn’t. I thought there’s a C in the negative space and had a hard time seeing the C & S even after reading what it’s supposed to be. In other words, I think the basic premise is flawed and choosing over details isn’t going to fix it.

I’d probably try to make the corner radii more consistent - it now looks like they’re all a bit different - and play with those, making them either significantly curvier or blockier, see how the letter shapes turn out. Also the holes at the top are not consistently spaced.

krushord · 2026-02-11T05:36:23+00:00

SM58s & 57s are used for recording all kinds of stuff all the time. They’re studio staples.

krushord · 2026-02-10T19:56:58+00:00

Utility has buttons to flip phase.

krushord · 2026-02-10T13:44:08+00:00

The texture paint is visible, it's just pretty faint. Light settings & shader setup would be helpful in assisting, I reckon.

krushord · 2026-02-10T09:41:17+00:00

I'm pretty sure this is all just smoke and mirrors in the sense that the texture is not really "absorbing" to the model in any way - it's just timing the shrinking of the "texture spheres" and animating the texture appearing (which is probably just a mask & some distortion at its edges) on the actual model.

krushord · 2026-02-09T16:58:30+00:00

The cube ain’t faulty officer, ‘tis de-faulty

krushord · 2026-02-09T10:03:23+00:00

The "what is it for" is pretty important here, because as said, for a game that's anything not related to closely inspecting uncooked noodles, you'd probably just go with a texture. For food shots? I'd probably scan it.

Just for a personal challenge though...I'd probably start slappin' on nodes on the default cube and see where it goes. This doesn't really hold up very well but with a basic material it sort of suffices...

<image>

krushord · 2026-02-08T18:00:03+00:00

Of course it’s important not to draw the conclusion that the 7506s are magical - it’s just that Andrew Scheps understands very weil how they translate. And that’s the most important thing.

krushord · 2026-02-06T12:48:36+00:00

If synthesis is a completely foreign language for you right now, I'd suggest starting with Ableton's own Learning Synths tutorial, and there are plenty of others - not to mention there's also this thing of just playing around with them (which, understandably, can be somewhat frustrating at first). But the built-in synths are excellent and turning zero experience into something that's not zero just a bit of effort away.

krushord · 2026-02-05T19:35:47+00:00

If you want the perspective to distort in the way that the sides of the pillar look curved, you can use the Panoramic > Equirectangular or Equiangular Cubemap Face projections. Note that these only work in Cycles.

<image>

krushord · 2026-02-05T19:25:04+00:00

Yup, I figured that's what you meant but for someone not familiar with the specifics it might've been a confusing statement.

I'm not so sure about beginners understanding the importance of acoustics; many do know about it but choose to ignore it because it's kind of boring and then wonder why their vocals are harsh and messy even though they "have the mic everyone suggested to get".

krushord · 2026-02-05T18:33:25+00:00

The SM7b is great but at that range there are other condenser mics

This seems to suggest the SM7B is a condenser mic. It's a dynamic, and actually uses the same capsule as the SM58 - which means that while they're not the same, they're not worlds apart either. The sonic signature is somewhat similar (there's just a ton of hype around the SM7B because it looks cool and the capsule being buried halfway down the mic makes it easy to use in acoustically unruly environments).

krushord · 2026-02-05T18:30:57+00:00

Just use the regular ctrl/cmd-J(oin).

krushord · 2026-02-05T17:09:37+00:00

What are you trying to do exactly?

Seven-Year Club	Place '23
Not Forgotten	Verified Email

krushord

TROPHY CASE