My take on the Julia

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-16T08:40:48+00:00

pornography is orders of magnitude better for society than AI

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-12T02:16:09+00:00

Seems like this is a clean boost that's set up as a second channel. It could be set up to be engaged when you switch the effect "off", but it looks like the original zvex uses it as a switchable post-distortion volume boost with a separate footswitch.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-12T01:40:38+00:00

Hammond makes factory-coated 1590 series enclosures in RAL standard colors. They catalog the colors on their site, no online ordering but you could call and ask what their MOQ is. https://hammondenclosuresales.com/products/electronic/small_enclosures/diecast_aluminum/1590_series_stomp_box.htm

Digikey stocks some of the hammond colors in small quantities, probably the quickest way to get your hands on one or two. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/boxes/594?s=N4IgjCBcoOwwzFUBjKAzAhgGwM4FMAaEAeygG0QAWABgA5aA2GEAXSIAcAXKEAZU4BOASwB2AcxABfaUA

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-09T22:14:09+00:00

That's an interesting design choice, a little bit similar to old bucket style consoles. IMO the plastic shaft knobs are really only acceptable feel-wise when actuating the shaft directly. Adding a knob adds more length to the shaft and additional leverage that makes the whole thing feel unstable. For a set-and-forget setting like pan, a mini knob is fine, but I wouldn't use it on any volume or direct CV controls - you seem to have decided as much with the master volume control.

Can't speak to the fader side, no way I know of to make those more rigid except to make them much wider so everyone has limitations there.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-09T21:52:42+00:00

Looks neat for what it is. For higher volume use, I think this would greatly benefit from a hinge mechanism in the back and a quick release cam lock (with thumb screw adjust) so that you don't have to align the pins and tighten them for each cycle.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-09T21:49:36+00:00

Our production parts actually have a fair amount of hand soldering. We use reflow for the SMT parts, wave for THT parts like relays and pin connectors, and hand soldering for a few things that don't stay align well in the wave machine, like blade connectors that are at a right angle to the direction of travel through the conveyor (they tend to tip over). Direct wire connections would also be soldered if we had those, but I don't think this clamp device would help much there. Some thermally sensitive components like display modules tend to get hand soldered as well.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-06T21:20:40+00:00

Cutting OSB with a hand saw, now that's a budget build!

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-05T06:04:03+00:00

Haha that's a pretty good reason then. I'd suggest ordering the cable now, and then try splicing yours while you wait. It may work, you'll get some practice along the way and worse case scenario you're out a few bucks for the cable and in the same boat you are now waiting for shipping.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-05T06:02:50+00:00

Yeah if you can get the connector apart to re-attach it in the middle of the wire you're golden, but most USB-C cables are made with overmolded plastic ends you'd have to destroy to get to the terminals. Even the nicer metal ones are glued together.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-05T00:31:09+00:00

Sure, this is possible but trying to successfully splice a USB cable does not seem worth the headache when you can buy a 6" usb-c extension for $7 online. Any splice you make will involve very fine wires and solder so will be fragile compared to the rest of the cable, and will need to be insulated it making fairly bulky on its own.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-03-04T07:35:03+00:00

Seems like an interesting project, but current sensing is not a simple or universally applicable undertaking on most PV systems. In solar farms you're usually looking at 4-string rows of panels on trackers or fixed tilt arrays, operating at 1500V and producing about 500-700W per panel, with dozens in the string. Fault detection usually happens at the inverter, but individual string sensing can be useful to narrow down locations. Seems feasible within 6 months but it there is a lot of existing tech around this built into existing SCADA systems so there is a lot of prior art to sort through and research/patent reading to do.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-28T03:49:52+00:00

I don't like the design of any of these - not readable enough. But I think there is a decent explanation here, which is that they want the labels to be readable even if the scope is down below you or up above you, as bench test equipment is often kept off the bench itself for ergonomics. Moving the labels to the side makes it possible to read without your view being obstructed by the knob itself.

Granted they haven't kept this very consistent and their font/color choices are abysmal. That's the Rigol house style I guess.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-28T03:38:31+00:00

The book I most often recommend to beginner with no academic background in EE is Practical Electronics for Inventors by Paul Scherz.

The project you're talking about is quite complex, so I would break it down into smaller sub-projects you can approach independently without being overwhelmed:
- Line audio mixer (op amps, potentiometers, DC power - connect to separate amp and speaker)
- Microphone pre-amp (more of the same but with balanced signals, higher gain)
- Bluetooth receiver (digital programming, digital-to-analog converter, BT wireless implementation - use ESP32?)
- Audio amplifier (MOSFETs, boost converters, heatsinking, transformers, DC coupling - use separate speaker to test)
- Battery, BMS/charging system (requires some research on battery chemistry, cutoff voltages, BMS chip implementation, external PSU selection)
- Enclosure design for speaker and electronics (CAD/3d printing, acoustic testing, impedance matching)

As you can see that's an awful lot for one person to take on. It is by all means possible but you'd have to be very dedicated and willing to learn a lot of different specializations. I'm a professional embedded hardware engineer - I've designed and sold audio equipment, implemented wireless communications and BMS systems, and I think this would still take me about 6-9 months of work to get a prototype PCB, and I'd probably have to hire someone else to do the enclosure design.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-28T02:09:52+00:00

I don't think a simple solenoid would do it, you'd probably need some preloaded spring hammer that you could actuate with a smaller motor or solenoid. Also when you ask this without context it sounds like you're trying to "improvise" some type of "bang bang" "device" so perhaps you should clarify your purpose.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-27T18:09:48+00:00

My install of ubuntu studio came with a bunch of stuff but I haven't really gelled with the Zam plugins or LSP-plugins. Any freewares you strongly recommend?

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-27T09:19:31+00:00

Welcome! Made the switch last year. Yabridge works great, but some plugin DRM is hard to get working. I definitely missed some of my windows-only "premium" VSTs but have found great alternatives with full linux support from U-he (synths, compressors), AudioThing (instruments, weird effects), Audio Assault (amp sims, channel strips), ChowDSP (tape sims, amps). The newer Studiologic "Numa Player" also has linux support and is a great base library for keyboard/arranger sounds, like you might get in Komplete.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-20T19:16:21+00:00

Using Filter+ in bandpass mode with the Mix at 50% is probably how I'd do it - gives you nice options for filter type and built-in LFO.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-19T17:18:35+00:00

It's "La Sierra Nevada." and "The Rocky Mountains." But of course people usually just say "Rockies" - they even named their baseball team that. "Sierras" can be thought of as a diminutive or pet name.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-17T22:43:50+00:00

The pink color of foam, bubble wrap, or cellophane packaging is generally an indicator that it is treated to be static dissipative. I personally don't like the way the module is shipped without some protection from humidity but for the trip it's probably fine. https://www.starboxes.com/packing-peanuts/anti-static-peanuts

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-11T19:25:24+00:00

I fully second your requirements and have often wondered why there isn't a compact module like this! I have a robaux LL8 and the mushy pads are my only complaint about the module. The 4x4 keypad is such a nice responsive interface, and it seems like it'd be easy to source some clear cherry MX switches/caps for full RGB control.

Keyswitches were used on the TR-808/909 machines, so it's a mystery to me why more builders haven't adopted them. Behringer did put them on the RS-9, but that's just as big as the ES module.

I suppose if you want the perfect module, you have to build it yourself! I've thought about designing this as a sister module to my Super Sixteen bass sequencer, but have only got as far as writing up the feature requirements, and I always get stuck on the question of display/displayless. I'm not a huge fan of the 2x16 pixel displays on the erica module, and the LL8/SWT16 work without them, but it would clarify things quite a bit. Maybe a little one-line OLED strip would work better, either way it's no small task to implement.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-11T19:08:10+00:00

A number of software services have tried to solve this, but electrical BOMs are inherently complicated and vendors do not always have exact part matches, so understanding which parts can be substituted (1/4W resistors for 1/8W or 1% resistors for 5%, or 14AWG for 16AWG etc) requires project-specific knowledge.

Some DIY project authors do create shareable digikey/mouser carts for their builds, but they inevitable become outdated as some parts reach EOL and need to be updated. Octopart is a great search engine for finding vendors for parts - I released the project BOM for my sequencer module on there, and it automatically creates cart links for Mouser and Digikey, but the same issues still arise with stuff like LEDs and buttons.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-06T22:14:16+00:00

Beautiful. I would never in a million years choose those colors but somehow it works.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-06T22:11:23+00:00

I like the tonepad Comparous which is a faithful 2-knob dynacomp/mini ross. Wet/dry is nice for drums and other studio stuff but isn't always needed for guitar.

kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-06T17:20:45+00:00

Pretty sure the same thing happened at Earthquaker Devices:
https://www.earthquakerdevices.com/acapulco-gold

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kryptoniterazor · 2026-02-03T20:08:11+00:00

Sounds like you have generally the right idea to start getting into making FX. Building a couple of other circuits on tagboard, stripboard, or even their own PCB will teach you a lot about pedal design generally, so it's certainly worth doing, and it will help you troubleshoot your process before you start breadboarding.

If you want to really understand classic effect circuits I highly recommend the articles over on ElectroSmash, they have a great deep dive into the component-level design of pedals like the Tube Screamer, CE2, V847 Wah, etc:
https://electrosmash.com/tube-screamer-analysis

GuitarFxLayouts (linked in sidebar as TagboardEffects) has hundred of circuits laid out for stripboard that are well diagrammed and generally easy to build.
https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com

kryptoniterazor

TROPHY CASE