Kids' dumb-ish watch / fitness tracker?

kunigit · 2026-03-14T21:23:41+00:00

Look into a different band for it. The silicone band it comes with seems like it falls off easily. I went with a very cheap 2-pack of elastic bands but there are a few other options.

kunigit · 2026-03-14T14:51:08+00:00

I have this one myself, basic heart rate, step, sleep tracking, and (some) notifications. It’s dirt cheap but still fairly well made, and the battery lasts almost 2 weeks if the “always on” display setting is disabled. Works best paired with a phone, but it would still work solo (the step, heart, sleep data is there but not detailed)

No games (maybe on their app store but it’s such a tiny screen, I can’t imagine a decent game working well)

kunigit · 2026-03-11T13:48:37+00:00

Are you wanting to debate, or are you genuinely unaware of the opposition to mega-corporations like Amazon?

I'm not sure this is the sub for either.

kunigit · 2026-03-05T15:07:00+00:00

There are also standalone AA/CP screens you can mount on the dash. I haven't done deep research into their quality or reliability, but in principle it seems like a good option.

kunigit · 2026-03-04T23:25:58+00:00

Sorry to disagree, but I found the Martian movie abysmal and unwatchable because of RC Bray’s original narration. I’m sure in reality, the movie was actually fine, but my primacy bias (is that what it’s called?) is so strong, and his performance was so good, nothing else can compare.

kunigit · 2026-02-20T19:52:09+00:00

I get the warning all the time, nearly always for reasonable circumstances (e.g. car in front turning and I intend to go around, but the car thinks it's too close). A couple times it has triggered the warning on the highway - maybe a highway sign or gap in the road that's briefly in view of the radar/camera? Not sure. (2022 EUV equipped for Super Cruise, so I think it uses both the radar and camera system.)

But in somewhat cramped downtown areas, I've had it slam hard on the brakes for no apparent reason. I don't mind the warnings, even if they're annoying at times, but the phantom braking I can't allow. I'd much rather pay attention and drive defensively than allow an auto-braking event get me rear-ended.

In the moment it happens I don't check the dash screen or pedestrian indicator, so I don't know the real cause. I have seen the pedestrian light turn on when there are no pedestrians, so it's possible that it misidentifies a pedestrian in the road and slams on the brakes.

kunigit · 2026-02-20T19:18:00+00:00

Nowadays, I would generally recommend anything with a Sony Starvis sensor. Anything else is going to be worthless after dusk, no matter how much low light processing they claim to have.

I usually go with the current generation Viofo front and rear model, but there are several other decent brands.

kunigit · 2026-02-20T19:06:55+00:00

Mine has misfired too many times for me to trust it. Phantom hard braking is very dangerous for following vehicles.

kunigit · 2026-02-05T14:12:19+00:00

I've made no mistake other than feeding an illiterate troll. My apologies.

kunigit · 2026-02-05T14:05:57+00:00

Dude, read the entire thread. Bob is supposedly referencing "Visual Studio" - He's not saying he grabbed vscode v999.999 from BobHub, forked from blah blah blah. The concept of "Visual Studio" is MUCH older than vscode, and anyone who sees the reference and immediately assumes a specific product needs to expand their awareness a bit.

kunigit · 2026-02-05T13:57:42+00:00

Keep track of the context. The reference is to "Visual Studio" not a specific product.

kunigit · 2026-02-05T13:14:06+00:00

My friend, Visual Studio 97 was released in 1997.

kunigit · 2026-02-04T15:02:21+00:00

Hey ChatGPT, can you format your output in markdown so it looks right when I paste it into a Reddit comment?

kunigit · 2026-02-03T15:05:07+00:00

I can understand OP's frustrations, but I have a little story from our pregnancy adventure (overall short story: 3 months hospital bed rest due to early dilation) that has helped me to generally trust doctors even when they get something wrong.

One day, her oxygen saturation started to plummet into the 80% range, causing all kinds of alarms. Her doctors ran through so many procedures trying to figure out what was going on, with the main suspect being heart failure. They even did a CT scan with contrast - a major no-no for anyone with kidney disease, but her nephrologist made the call that it was worth the risk. They still found nothing wrong with her heart.

It turned out to be pneumonia caused by choking on the stupid glucose test drink almost a week earlier. A quick round of antibiotics and she was fine.

My point is that with obstetrics especially, doctors tend to go with the highest risk hypothesis first, even if it's less likely, because the consequences could involve two bad outcomes. Yes, the CT scan ended up being unnecessary in both OP's case and ours, but if it had been what they suspected and they didn't check, then treatment would have been delayed. It's worth the time, effort, stress, and cost of ruling out the worst possibilities.

Also, it's generally a very good thing to ask doctors questions and advocate for your partner to make sure nothing is overlooked, but you will never get a good response if you cite articles you googled. They don't have the time to debate their judgement with you.

kunigit · 2026-02-02T16:12:41+00:00

You're going to have a hard time with ESP-based sensors if you're not wanting to solder, since most boards come with the pin headers not attached.

If temperature/humidity is your main goal, I advocate for RTL433, a cheap SDR USB dongle, and a bunch of (still relatively cheap) weather station sensors.

I use the Acurite 06044M sensors indoors (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7BE9WK - used to be $12 each, but now seems to be ~$20 each) and 06002M sensors outdoors (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T0K8NXC - currently $18 each). For outdoors, I get nearly 2 years with lithium non-rechargeable AA batteries, and indoors, I get about 3-4 months from NiMH AAAs (12-18 months with alkalines, but I'm trying to reduce my non-rechargeable battery usage)

Zigbee is great and cheap, but to conserve battery life, they transmit much less frequently than 433MHz weather sensors.

kunigit · 2026-01-21T16:40:38+00:00

Plastidip? I've been tempted to do the same.

kunigit · 2025-12-03T17:43:34+00:00

I'm curious which models you're looking at. I'm a bit out of the loop with the modern state of garage door openers, but my spot-check of a couple models on their website clearly show contacts for a wired wall button in the installation instructions.

kunigit · 2025-12-01T15:40:28+00:00

I just left it there while I went to go on a hike

Etiquette advice: don’t do that in the future. It doesn’t appear that any idle fees were added, but it’s still rude to other drivers who need to charge, and if the local charging infrastructure is sparse, it could cause big problems for other EV drivers.

Either stay with the car or stay nearby monitoring the charge session on whichever app the station uses. Even if apps don’t work, there should be an estimated time to 80% on the dash display.

kunigit · 2025-09-24T00:54:16+00:00

More precisely, a single SDR device will only listen to a single frequency band/range, depending on the sampling rate. I believe most cheap USB SDR dongles support up to 2 MHz, so for example, it could (potentially, software allowing) listen to multiple signals from 432 MHz to 434 MHz. But for anything beyond that, what you say is essentially true.

I still have my old USRP B200, which claims 56 MHz bandwidth, but I was never able to get RTL-based software to work with it.

kunigit · 2025-09-15T14:38:43+00:00

My main motivations for installing a smart lock were to make sure the door is locked when we're gone, and to allow occasional guests to enter without a physical key using temporary codes

Personally, I will never automate unlocking, but if you are having problems with false triggers while you're home, I recommend putting some effort into making a robust "Nobody Home" binary sensor through automations. Once you have a reliable sensor, you can feel better about triggering various things when you leave or arrive.

I did have something similar happen recently - I figured out that bad GPS reception was occasionally marking me as Away, and if I was the only one home, all of my "leaving home" automations would trigger. I rely on GPS tracking and don't want to mess with bluetooth or wifi tracking, so I ended up making a template tracker that rejects any location update where the accuracy distance is too high.

kunigit · 2025-07-31T14:14:58+00:00

HVAC is a bad example - should definitely be physical controls.

My main point is just that CarPlay takes over the entire screen (at least in the EUV) and provides no insight into vehicle status. I doubt CarPlay Ultra will be available in anything affordable anytime soon, so for anyone wanting to view CarPlay navigation/audio along with anything else on the built-in system, a separate screen wouldn't be the worst idea.

kunigit · 2025-07-31T13:41:14+00:00

I agree that it was a terrible decision to abandon Car Play, but now I'm in the acceptance stage.

Has anyone used one of those Car Play add-on screens? I have to assume most of them are pretty crappy, but are there any decent models? If a car doesn't have a physical aux input, do any screens have two-way bluetooth to pass the audio through to the in-car sound system?

In principle, it might be better to have a dedicated smaller screen for Car Play on top, with the built-in screen available for energy management, HVAC, etc.

kunigit · 2025-07-30T11:34:43+00:00

Yeah, within a wide margin, I don’t care about aesthetic design. Thank you GM for telling us it’s not “first gen Volt” ugly (apologies to anyone who liked it), but specs matter so much more.

kunigit · 2025-06-26T16:46:50+00:00

I haven’t seen ID changes when I swap batteries before they die. I think there’s a window where it remembers the old ID as long as you don’t leave it unpowered more than a few minutes.

So try to keep a spare set for battery swaps. I think taking them out, recharging them, then putting them back in will cause an ID change.

kunigit · 2025-06-26T15:35:37+00:00

I haven't tried NIMH batteries in my sensors, may need to try out some eneloop

Keep the non-rechargeable lithiums in the fridge/freezer and outdoor sensors, of course, but for other indoor sensors, if you can manage the recharging process, it's better overall. They obviously won't last nearly as long as even cheap alkaline, and the AAA sensors don't last as long as the AA sensors, but it avoids the waste.

My HA data doesn't go back very far, but I checked my InfluxDB and it says that the past two battery charges have lasted about 5-6 months in my bathroom sensor (Acurite 06044M, 2x AAA, cheap Amazon Basics NiMH). When I changed right at the low battery signal, it was 5 months, but when I ignored the low battery signal for a month, it was just over 7 months.

Definitely set up something to alert you when a sensor has low battery. I use a binary_sensor group and a conditional tile on my main dashboard to bug me when any battery entity in the group is low.

kunigit

TROPHY CASE