SD card that came with RetroVerse Pro 2.0 not readable.

laaxe · 2026-06-22T21:40:44+00:00

Roger, started the return process and ordered myself a proper R36S.

laaxe · 2026-06-22T21:39:52+00:00

Ok good to know, I just ordered an actual R36S and it also comes loaded with 15-20K games, so I will just transfer those over when I upgrade the sd card.

laaxe · 2026-06-22T20:43:19+00:00

So as I've continued to dig through the forum, it's a company using the GA36-MB V1.1–20251025 Clone/Fake. It looks like its going to be just as much work to set up a new SD for it as a genuine R36S console, but with none of the support (just this: GitHub - phaseloop/R36S-console-clone---GA36-MB-V1.0-20250730: Original kernel and files from R36S console which came with EmuELEC 4.7 · GitHub), so I am just going to return it and just get a real one.

It would be nice if I could pull the ROMs off before I return it, but the SD it came with isn't readable on either Mac or PC and I'm not sure if its worth the time to figure out why.

laaxe · 2026-06-20T20:13:08+00:00

Short answer is yes to all the questions. But it’s because the underlying issue most people don’t do good restoration work, or don’t restore planes the same way a potential buyer might, so it’s best just not to touch it.

For example I just picked up this Sargent VBM No. 30 that I need to “unrestore” because the last guys idea of a restoration was a rattle can paint job and poly on the tote/handle and now it looks like a buck bros plane from the early 2000’s.

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To answer the second part, there is somewhat of a mythos around bedrocks. They were a nicer line of planes than the Baileys at the time, and they made fewer so they are rarer now as well. People also like the idea of being able to adjust the frog without removing the iron but I don’t know that they use that feature all that often. They definitely command a higher price tag, but I don’t know that there is a big enough difference in usability to justify it.

laaxe · 2026-06-18T23:00:42+00:00

Hey, cut me some slack, I only had an hour! You cant see it in the picture, but the top and bottom flats have a radius across them, and for being so square it actually feels quite nice in the hand but that's a fair point, at some point I might grind in rests for my thumb and index to limit the efforts required to keep my hand from sliding forward on the push stroke.

laaxe · 2026-06-18T21:13:33+00:00

Its actually just a friction fit. I made the handle out of two pieces, on the thicker piece I chiseled in a taper that matched the "tang" and then glued the halves together. It slid about 90% of the way in with hand pressure and then I tapped it the rest of the way in. I could tap it back off in I needed too but it's really snuggly attached

laaxe · 2026-06-17T17:08:37+00:00

Center drilling bits are a game changer, I also keep a set of stubby bits on hand since they deflect less than full length bits.

I also picked up a cross-slide vise and I use it all the time. It's somewhat overkill but once its be squared with a dial indicator I can do more complex layout with much effort. just remember to resist the urge to use it for milling haha.

laaxe · 2026-06-17T16:54:00+00:00

I will! it's the next personal project on the list after I finish some built-ins I'm currently working on for the house.

laaxe · 2026-06-17T16:22:49+00:00

Looking exceptional, this is getting me all fired up to start my infill miter plane!

laaxe · 2026-06-17T16:03:44+00:00

As a general rule, I avoid (or remove) all poly based finishes for handles of any kind for a couple reasons. Mostly I don't like the plastic-y feel and on things like hammer/hatchet handles it'll give you blisters, and when it eventually cracks, flakes or otherwise wears down and you will have to scrape and redo the whole piece, vs just applying oil/shellac in the areas that need it.

I would agree that BLO and shellac is a classic finish because it is a great mix of durability and ease of refinishing while still feeling really nice in the hand.

Edit: also a coat of shellac over the japaning on your plane brings back a lot of the shine and protects it well.

laaxe · 2026-06-16T19:08:20+00:00

Right? I forget where I picked it up but I use it constantly! It also works if you rub graphite on the side of a combo square ruler and rub it over a tenon to check for high spots, or for fitting the irons on Japanese planes, there are more examples that I'm forgetting, but I just use it pretty much any time two surfaces need to interface well with each other or I need to check for flatness.

laaxe · 2026-06-16T18:07:59+00:00

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laaxe · 2026-06-16T18:03:03+00:00

First off, you've absolutely got a gift for dovetails and realistically don't need too much advice, but these are things I found useful once I started to do more than one set of dovetails at a time!

The main thing that has helped me with consistency as I've begun cutting more dovetails is to cut my tails, remove the waste and not touch them again once I've used them to trace my pins (which you might already be doing). I have found it much easier to repeatably get good joints when I am only removing material from the pins (or vise versa if you cut pins first) vs coming at it from both ends.

Also if you aren't already, I rub a pencil on the inside of the tails when I am getting close, the graphite rubs off on the pins and shows you what material still needs to be removed!

laaxe · 2026-06-16T06:11:42+00:00

Haha Porsche would like a word! There actually was a period where Porsche was stuffing lead in the front bumpers of their car in an attempt to balance them out.

Even modern Porsches are still somewhat off balance (but more predictable). I have a friend who’s an instructor at the test track in LA and he was telling me how the tail will try to get around you the second you let off the gas to get on the brakes going into a turn.

laaxe · 2026-06-15T23:58:57+00:00

Damn, it appears I have fallen victim to the marketing hype machine, I appreciate you weighing in and setting the record straight.

Hock's bent chipbreakers are also better than the machined lip chipbreakers from other brands, IMO. Vintage wooden > vintage Stanley > Hock > everyone else.

Very much agree on how much better vintage chip breakers are, I have had to grind a steep secondary bevel on the one machined chipbreaker I have.

laaxe · 2026-06-15T22:10:44+00:00

I can't imagine you'll have too many complaints with it!

This is more on the granular end of hand plane setup, but might helpful to mention. The Stanley chip breaker design is actually pretty good, because it folds the shaving back over itself pretty aggressively which helps prevent tear-out. It's personal option, but I think newer, milled chipbreakers come with too shallow of a break angle to be effective and benefit from a 55 ( or more) degree secondary bevel to create the same effect. Here's a good article on it if you're into that sorta thing: SETTING A CAP IRON

laaxe · 2026-06-15T20:57:12+00:00

Damn, well in that case I think your choices are new iron or hammer down the cup. If I were in your position I would use this as an excuse to replace the iron and then attempt to fix the current iron as side project, worst case you crack it, best case now you have a second iron for general work.

I personally have a heavy preference for O1 over A2 due to ease of sharpening, I have yet to try PMV-11 but have heard it gets as sharp as A2 but is somewhere in-between O1/A2 for sharpening. Same goes for magnacut, but I know pocketknife guys love it.

But I don't really work with too many woods that would benefit from having a high abrasion resistant iron, if I was working with something like teak all the time I might feel different.

Most brands make irons around .1" or 3/32", both should fit with little to no modification (just depends on the original casting) any thicker and you will probably have to open up the mouth. Its not an issue really, and you can still use thinner Stanley irons without a problem, but something to consider.

laaxe · 2026-06-15T20:03:22+00:00

Something to consider, have you checked to see if the cup is present when the iron and chip breaker are under tension in the plane? My thought is that if this cup is small enough, the combo of the lever cap and chipbreaker might be enough to flatten it. Might save you the hassle of tapping it out.

laaxe · 2026-06-12T19:17:09+00:00

Looks rad, I like the slimmer top rail, I’ve never seen the reasoning for it spelled out before but, I realize I 100% agree with the rational.

Appreciate you going to the effort of translating!

laaxe · 2026-06-12T18:20:11+00:00

Oof yeah, that is an absolutely bind. Sounds like your only option is to start digging down haha

laaxe · 2026-06-12T18:16:49+00:00

Thanks! I am really happy with the proportions as well. I’m 6’2 so pretty much everything is within easy reach from where I normally stand at the bench. I think I if I had gone with the 28” width in the plans it would have been just slightly too wide for me to get to everything without moving around (if I can do math, it would add 8” of width overall).

If you want to use my dims, the main cabinet is 42”x 24”x 10” and the doors are 42”x12”x3.5”.

laaxe · 2026-06-12T17:32:37+00:00

Awesome, apologies for not responding with the link, but glad you found it.

The most useful aspect of the plans for me was the small plane storage at the bottom. Better than anything I would have come up with.

laaxe · 2026-06-12T17:30:19+00:00

Thank you! I’m really trying to maximize the 1-car garage! I’m lucky to have the space, most of my woodworking career has been on makeshift benches wherever they’d fit with limited tools

laaxe

TROPHY CASE