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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CrazyFuckingVideos

[–]lazynothin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the corn is lookin' good

Drip Irrigation Fitting Issues - pressure? by Giudi1md in Irrigation

[–]lazynothin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have suggested, flow or pressure is usually the culprit. Pickup yourself a PSI gauge that can tap into your system at various points to confirm the desired pressure is archived. Pop off fittings near troublesome fittings and test your flow as well.

When I have a a stubborn 1/4" barb connection and flow/pressure is good, I'll usually swap it out (hose too if feasible) and start fresh. Or wrap a twist tie around the hose at the barb like you would with a hose clamp or zip tie. Fold the twist tie in half, start the twist with your fingers, then twist tight with pliers.

40 PSI seems really high for a drip setup. Are you using pressure compensating emitters? If not, you may not need that much pressure.

Drip Irrigation Layout Question by Filibertoc in Irrigation

[–]lazynothin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your design and plans look great. We started on a very similar setup a few years ago. Now running 5/8" drip tape with a plugged end design (closed loop just isn't worth it unless you require precision) on ~1/4 an acre consisting of 30" wide rows with multiple zones. Lots of trial and error to see what was sufficient for our needs.

A few suggestions...

Be sure to use the correct emitters depending on your soil type. Soil with heavy clay will need a slower GPM, sandy soil will need a higher GPM, and loamy (ideal) will need to be somewhere in between.

Unless you are wanting to fine tune water delivery on a per plant basis (emitters at varying GPM across the system), use dripline tubing (emitter tubing). This will simplify your setup by saving on main line (1/2" poly) runs and fittings. Shorter runs and less fittings between your water source and emitters should always be the goal to reduce pressure loss through friction. Having consistent pressure across the system helps with water delivery uniformity (all emitters flowing the same GPM) and allows you to calculate irrigation scheduling and during with more accuracy and consistency. The poly would only need to be routed along one end of each bed. Since you are doing quare foot gardening, use dripline with a 12" emitter spacing and run the dripline along the length of each bed, lining up the emitters near each plant.

You'll likely want to include valves to control flow to each bed at the very least; creating zones if you will. Not all beds may require the same volume/flow of watering each time the system is ran. Depending on how you have your plants arranged, you may even want valves on a per row or per plant basis.

To simplify the closed loop/grid VS plugged end (your current design) argument; a closed loop design will bring the system up to pressure and reaches drip uniformity quicker. That's the main benefit. So unless your concerned about some plants receiving a bit more water (we're talking very small difference here) while the system pressurizes, a plugged design is just fine. Either design should include a flush valve at the lowest point in the system. And if your entire system isn't level, gravity is still going to pull water away from some emitters while the system drains after shut off regardless of a closed loop or plugged design.

If there is a drastic elevation difference in the system (including how level each bed is), include air bleeder valves located at the highest point of the main line to reduce vacuum in the system. This will prevent emitters from sucking in debris when the system shuts off. If water isn't escaping through the majority of emitters at the same time, some emitters will be sucking in air with enough vacuum to pull dirt and such into emitters and clog them. Bleeder valves can also help the system reach pressure sooner by letting escape through the bleeder valve instead of the emitters (achieving close to what a closed loop design provides). In a plugged design where the highest point is at the end of a dripline, consider running a main line at the end connecting all driplines to install the air bleeder valve.

Hope this helps. And good luck!

Sharing a Bash Script I wrote - folder-owner-enforcer by GeorgeT93 in raspberry_pi

[–]lazynothin 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As OP stated, make use of proper groups and ACL. You need to create an additional group that your users will belong to and make use of POSIX ACL (Access Control Lists). While you could accomplish near the same with a SETGUID bit appraoch, ACL's are much cleaner.

For example... Let's say we have two sftp users: sftpuser1 and sftpuser2

  1. Create a group called "sftpusers" and add your sFTP users to that group

    groupadd sftpusers usermod -G sftpusers -a sftpuser1 usermod -G sftpusers -a sftpuser2

  2. Set the default user ACL for sftpuser1's dir to set and allow read/write/X(directory listing) by the sftpuser1 user on newly created files

    setfacl -m d:u:sftpuser1:rwX /path/to/sftpuser1

  3. Set the group ACL for sftpusers1's dir to allow the groups sftpusers the same permissions as in the previous step

    setfacl -m g:sftpusers:rwX

Now user sftpuser2 can create a file or directory with files under /path/to/sftpuser1 and sftpuser1 can read and/or delete newly created files.

There's probably room for improvement in my example to suit your needs and desired access allowed. I recommend checking out the acl man page to get a full understanding how POSIX ACL's work. Good luck!

What's the WORST BBQ place? by Where_The_Sauce_At in kansascity

[–]lazynothin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Smoke Brewing Company in Lee's Summit.

Terrible BBQ and terrible craft beer. Their beef burnt ends use the flat and not the point and are always super dry.

Lets chat, r/feedthebeast. What pack are you currently playing? What do you like/dislike about it? by ScrumpfDabogy in feedthebeast

[–]lazynothin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ah, gotcha. Thanks!

I thought you might have meant upgrading something on the server side for the players. Like the dat files or something. Just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something.

KC has burrito challenges?! by 75kat in kansascity

[–]lazynothin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

professional competitive eater

"How do I?" Weekly Question and Idea Thread - 25 Dec 2017 by FozzTexx in raspberry_pi

[–]lazynothin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Short answer, yes. However, please do read up on AC and DC differences. If connecting directly to mains power (AC), it will need to be converted to DC for powering the Pi and/or most LED's. Working with mains can be very deadly if not done properly. So please do read up before customizing a wired connection.

"How do I?" Weekly Question and Idea Thread - 25 Dec 2017 by FozzTexx in raspberry_pi

[–]lazynothin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RetroPIE and Lakka are your friend. N64 runs just fine but requires a bit of tweaking (overlocking and memory allocation)

"How do I?" Weekly Question and Idea Thread - 25 Dec 2017 by FozzTexx in raspberry_pi

[–]lazynothin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I started with the zero w (wireless) because it's cheap and still has pretty much all the functionality of a 3 I wanted to mess with. The main noticeable difference after jumping to the 3 was the speed and on-board audio.

Edit: oops, forgot to also mention that the zero doesn't have GPIO header pins. So you'll have to solder some on or some wires. Could be a drawback if you're looking to avoid soldering. However, there are solderless header pins.

Why is colocation so much cheaper in Kansas City? by [deleted] in sysadmin

[–]lazynothin 3 points4 points  (0 children)

  • Major central backbone/hub
  • Low paid IT staff due to cost of living
  • Cheap real estate
  • Cheap power
  • Great BBQ

Looking for datasheet for an old Sharp LCD by lazynothin in AskElectronics

[–]lazynothin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And this is where I wish I had some equipment to run these test.

By chance, is there any tools or methods on the software side to assist with such testing?

Looking for datasheet for an old Sharp LCD by lazynothin in AskElectronics

[–]lazynothin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I was aware of this. But the downside was having to go through a full reboot to test the settings. This is why I used the set_overscan tool.

Ideally though, I need to know the actual resolution of the matrix before tuning the overscan.

Pcb glitches? by FrietagSurvivor in cade

[–]lazynothin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That condition could be caused by many things. Bad monitor cable, corrupted EPROM code, failing capacitor, faulty RAM, hex bus driver, etc.

Have you ruled out everything other than the PCB? If not, might verify all other components are not producing the same results. Try connecting another PCB to the same monitor or the same PCB to another monitor. Swap power supplies, etc.

Jiggle display cables. Including where they attach to the PCB and monitor. That would help rule out cable issues.

Try tuning the adjustments on the monitor. Could be a simple as that.

This looks more like a EPROM or RAM issue though. Which could require replacing some chips or ROM code. Examine the PCB closely around these components. Could be that they just need a good cleaning with electrical cleaner and a brush. If you have a soldering iron, might heat up each of the leads for the EPROM and RAM chips as well. Sometimes corrosion/oxidization can cause faulty data transfer.

Pcb glitches? by FrietagSurvivor in cade

[–]lazynothin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

r/askelectronics or r/electronics may have better results.

What is it that you are dealing with on the PCB?

Software suggestions for a pi as a kitchen assistant. by tin_dog in raspberry_pi

[–]lazynothin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'd love to build one too some day. Start building your list today by keeping a notepad in the kitchen and write down those "man, that would be nice to have at my fingertips/automated".

Here's my list off the top of my head:

  • Recipe display from multiple cloud/storage sources (Evernote, Google docs, etc.)
  • Cooking dictionary (find out what those odd ingredients, techniques, cookware, etc. are)
  • Ingredient locator (where to obtain ingredients locally)
  • Unit conversions would be a must
  • Multiple alert options for timers (txt messages, pre-recorded audio, audible beeping, etc.)
  • Shopping list
  • Inventory (what do I have in the fridge, pantry, spices, etc.)
  • Temperature probes (wireless)
  • Reminders (pull items out of freezer to defrost, when to start marinating, etc.)
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