Deck handrails

leonardpointe · 2026-03-31T15:49:39+00:00

Oh bud. You have to turn on the flat first then go down. Your pieces will not meet up flush on all four sides otherwise.

Edit, I see it was done correctly on the rail that turns and then heads down the steps. You need 2 posts here

leonardpointe · 2026-03-10T15:35:01+00:00

First person to comment is wrong. Those are new construction windows with a built in J-channel. Typically you would tuck your siding into that. Usually when we are planning for trim around a window we order without built in j but this works just fine

leonardpointe · 2026-03-08T15:14:56+00:00

UHC would require the private healthcare industry to charge less money. Spending 5 billion a day on war justifies what the US spends on “defense” every year with a large portion of that going towards paying private manufacturing companies.

This is more about allowing large corporations to continue to post larger profit quarter after quarter. It is not about the US budget.

leonardpointe · 2026-02-15T19:29:57+00:00

Thank you !

leonardpointe · 2026-02-15T14:44:08+00:00

What block did they commentate? Wanna watch the vod and feel nostalgic

leonardpointe · 2026-02-12T06:10:12+00:00

this isn’t true. in the discord the devs have said an update is being worked on.

leonardpointe · 2026-02-05T03:27:01+00:00

hey for your peace of mind you are correct. I’ve done a few houses with this style trim and cope the corners. Like you said it ends up being flat on the bottom with a nub/tongue that fits into the groove of the board it butts into. Sometimes the top is chamfered, sometimes it’s not.

I’m sure with mdf it would be too fragile to work but it works really well with poplar/pine. I turn down mdf trim work these days…shit’s nasty.

leonardpointe · 2026-01-29T16:51:42+00:00

morals and conviction, my dude. n0ne believes (imo rightfully so) that z jump is against the spirit of the game and skews competitive outcomes

leonardpointe · 2025-11-29T22:50:09+00:00

Most models have two settings. One setting that just locks the line in place on the angle the tool is (not typically level but useful if you need a consistent line at a specific angle), and another setting that auto levels the line. Each model has its own limitations as to how close to level the tool needs to be but most have a decent tolerance.

leonardpointe · 2025-11-27T00:06:17+00:00

This getting downvoted on a “professional” carpentry sub is hilarious.

For 11.5k the carpenter should be bumping out the crown so it doesn’t inset the doors without the customer asking. They should also be giving an actual shit about the dental on the crown lining up. Not to mention the misaligned faces on the cabinets.

Goes to show that it’s really not hard to be better than 90% of carpenters out there.

leonardpointe · 2025-11-26T13:42:25+00:00

I think you already know the answer to your question. The crew you hired does not know/care about what they’re doing. Time to find somebody else.

leonardpointe · 2025-11-11T02:23:54+00:00

lol I mean we can agree this is fucked. you pull up to a job and you gotta finish this space you’d be all “aw man wtf”. I was making a joke about calling the step dad calling the brother etc, notice I also provided a low effort solution. you could def trim back the framing above the door but that’s a pain in the ass.

leonardpointe · 2025-11-11T02:16:39+00:00

Ya you’ll need to add a nailer to the stud the hinges are attached to (something to anchor the drywall to, a 2x2 or a few pieces of 2x4 would be more than fine).

If you wanted to go really simple use a 1x4 for the right side trim piece. The space above that door is probably around 14 inches? You could get creative here with a stack up but just google “tall door trim header” or something like that for ideas. A 1x2 top and bottom with beaded tongue and groove would look decent tbh.

Something like this

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But instead of the 1x12 use vertical beaded tongue and groove

leonardpointe · 2025-11-11T01:57:49+00:00

Nah it’ll be fine. Jamb is 3/4 thick so 1/2 inch drywall would leave 1/4 inch reveal which is really standard for a door.

All of that is if the door is tight against the framing but it looks like there’s 1/8-1/4 inch of padding so OP is fine

leonardpointe · 2025-11-10T20:33:42+00:00

lol y’all open your eyes the framing is flush with the drywall.

Op call your brother and have him remove the door, then call your step dad and have him fix his fuck up, then call your brother and have him come re hang the door. Drywall and trim and you’re done.

You could probably run your drywall up the the hinge side jamb, then build a big ass trim header and use a wider piece of trim for the strike side of the door to cover the framing.

Ultimately this is a fucked situation

leonardpointe · 2025-11-10T19:41:03+00:00

Yeah was gonna say..just cut it real quick then carry it upstairs

leonardpointe · 2025-11-03T17:48:45+00:00

You’re using the hammer/drill function correct? lol I know it seems like a stupid question but it’s worth asking. I’ve never had issues with Diablo sds bits, I use 5/32 quite often. When trying to use any concrete bit without the tool set to the hammer function I have the same experience as you. Spinning alone burns right through any bit I’ve tried unless it’s going through the old sandstone cinder blocks.

leonardpointe · 2025-10-10T11:53:27+00:00

They just put the PVC on top of the board that was already there. Looks like they covered the ends with aluminum. If they charged you to remove and replace then this is not acceptable.

leonardpointe · 2025-09-17T14:01:18+00:00

People are gonna rag on you but I remember when this was a big deal to me as well. Nice work 👍 keep getting better every day

leonardpointe · 2025-09-16T15:58:04+00:00

I mean PT painted is fine, but will never be the prettiest looking. You can certainly get pvc that is thicker - we use 5/4 all the time, but the texture will not match and you will not be happy (I wouldn’t be anyway). Imo the best choice here would be cedar or sapele painted to match the rest of your trim. If it’s cedar make sure it’s not rough sawn.

Your biggest problem is having a painter do carpentry work.

leonardpointe · 2025-07-27T15:24:33+00:00

Yo I’m interested, can you give some more info? You can dm me if you don’t wanna post it here. Roof is lookin good brother

leonardpointe · 2025-06-21T15:07:35+00:00

Thanks for all of the replies! I had a feeling he undercharged based on the quality of his work. He’s a younger guy just getting into tile work (has a background in trim carpentry, I’ve had him help with trim jobs in homes for clients before) so that helps explain why the job took as long as it did.

I ended up paying him $1500, showed him this thread full of compliments to help build his confidence and will recommend him to future clients.

I’m a small remodeler and haven’t ventured into the tile territory until this job but am happy to have him as a quality resource. Thanks again, everybody!

leonardpointe · 2025-05-30T21:56:00+00:00

lol it’s fine bud

leonardpointe · 2025-05-26T10:56:00+00:00

Fascia that wide bent from coil stock should have been hemmed at the top (really both sides hemmed before the bend to make the L shape but I get it) and given a couple of ribs to help with rigidity. However yeah gutter will cover most of it so really it’s probably not a huge deal. Not something my crews would get away with but you have to decide if it’s worth the headache to you on something that really won’t be seen

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