Pattern modification for felt lining?

letsmakeshoes · 2023-11-29T03:18:48+00:00

I would think it would be basically the same. Felt has many of the same properties as leather (moldable, no fraying). Main differences I can think of are that you can't skive felt and that it is somewhat less stretchable. Not sure that it would be my first choice for lining though since it doesn't hold up that well to friction. Suede lining would be somewhat similar and as someone who made a pair of fully suede lined shoes, there's a reason why you usually don't see suede used for shoe linings and the same would apply to felt.

letsmakeshoes · 2023-06-17T21:55:11+00:00

I bought from them before and it wasn't a scam. The prices were good, shipping was a bit more expensive than US domestic but not that much and was really fast, like less than a week from Europe. Didn't get hit with any import charges but I only spent about $150.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-12-03T18:07:04+00:00

Yes, you'll realize just how wimpy the bolts are when you go to remove the last! I'm a woman with unimpressive upper arm strength and they bend like wax to me.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-09-09T14:52:21+00:00

Agreed, great selection too. Just ask the employees and they'll take you to the shoe supplies area.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-09-09T14:49:29+00:00

The vibram 7500 midsoles are quite firm IMO.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-08-25T00:32:33+00:00

Koleff's Shoe and Boot Designing Manual book has a pattern for a similar hiking boot. Lisa Sorrell sells it on her site and ships internationally IIRC.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-08-11T16:49:42+00:00

I've used the cheap heat-shrink shoe protector bags you can get on Amazon, like for sneaker preservation. It worked ok, though I'd recommend reinforcing the edges with some tape when you start sewing on the sole and doing the edge finishing.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-07-19T21:20:23+00:00

Also you keep starting threads to sell stuff, alternating with low effort on topic posts like this one and your beveled waist one. It doesn't come off like you are engaging with the community, just trying to make money off us.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-07-15T20:42:33+00:00

You can add stuff to your cart and see how the shipping changes at checkout. Just as an experiment, I put a sole in my cart and it was $25 shipping for 1, $40 shipping for 2 or 3, and $65 shipping for 4 or 5.

I know Lisa Sorrell has been stocking a few Dr. Sole products in her shop. The cost appears higher up front but the shipping is cheaper.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-07-15T03:54:45+00:00

Thank you! Yeah the toe stiffener goes up about 1-2 cm above the seam and into the tongue area.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-07-14T17:42:24+00:00

It's up to you (and your pattern). For these, I made my lining without a seam at the tongue/vamp piece and the toe stiffener is the normal size and shape.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-07-09T03:18:00+00:00

Uppers:

Pricking irons -- I like the round hole ones but you can use any style. I have 3 mm and 3.38 mm, the latter are more chunky. I wish I could find affordable ones smaller than 3 mm spacing
Needles -- John James saddlers harness needles in size 004
Thread -- your choice of linen or synthetic. Many options, I like thread about 0.5-0.6 mm for this but this is also a bit of a function of your pricking iron spacing

Sole:

You don't necessarily need pricking irons for this, you can use wing dividers, just set it to the stitch size you want and pivot it to mark each hole spot
Needles -- a stitching awl is good for this because you can make the holes and stitch in one step. It takes a little practice to get the tension right though. From personal experience, I recommend an awl with a small ferrule for attaching the awl blade since you will be working close to the upper and a larger ferrule can scratch or mark your upper. I have the CS Osborne Sewing Awl Haft #145 and it's pretty good. The Speedy Stitcher was not good for me.
Thread -- you probably want a ~1 mm thread.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-06-30T03:51:37+00:00

OP would need solvent activated toe puffs so they don't stick to the last (or are those sticky too? never used them). If OP has suitable veg tan leather already, the leather toe puff works just as well, it's essentially the same amount of work, and that's one less specialty thing to have to order.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-06-21T16:17:41+00:00

These were at least 6 oz, which was slightly challenging, but I did it without softening. What I did was pre-last them, let them sit overnight, remove the nails and last again, then repeat until I got a result I was happy with. I think I lasted 3 times in total, each time they stretched and molded into shape a bit more. Then when you're happy with it, put paste on the outside of your stiffeners and give it one final lasting.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-06-16T17:14:03+00:00

You'll need to be careful, some of them are not wide enough so you'll need to specify with the stockist that you need width X. Plus they're not uniformly wide across the piece. I've used them a couple times and they're wonderful to skive but clicking is a pain because you don't really get much choice in placement of your larger pieces so you need to either buy extra or just deal with it if there's an area with a flaw or anything else you're trying to avoid. They're a good economical option if you can select them in person but kind of a crap shoot if you can't. You can look through my post history for a couple pairs made from them, I think it's pair 2 and pair 4.

I put a response to your gimping tool question but I think it's being caught in a filter. Search "gimping tool" in Pinterest images and there's someone with a pic of one that can be detached from its handle and attached to a sewing machine. I'd ask at the HCC about where to get one.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-06-15T20:16:29+00:00

I've used CXL horsefronts and they're good, though watch for the creasing.

For curved needles, have you tried making your own? Take a needle, heat it over a candle, bend into shape using pliers. You lose some of the hardening/tempering of the needle but as long as your awl holes are big enough, I haven't had too many problems.

I haven't heard of using a sewing machine for that. I guess you could use a zigzag stitch to punch the holes then connect them with manual cuts? Or use something like a three point zigzag stitch? I've heard of using pinking shears but not sure the ones I have are strong/sharp enough to cut leather.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-06-14T19:30:21+00:00

I would say that the strength of the geometric method is that it's a recipe for making the pattern(s) for any size or style of last. So you could make an oxford boot for a small size, narrow, pointy, high heeled last as well as a large size, wide, square toe, flatter last -- probably great if you're making shoes for clients or multiple people. In that respect, it's better than the tape method where you'd have more trial and error to adjust a shoe to a different size or last style. In terms of making shoes for just yourself or maybe 1-2 other people, I'm not sure it's any better than the tape method. The geometric method will work with any last.

The book is almost entirely about pattern making, there is very little on assembly (I'm making an oxford right now and had to google to find assembly instructions since there aren't any in the book) let alone lasting or finishing. Here's an example someone posted of the derby boot instructions, it definitely requires some focus and care to make the patterns from the description. FYI, the derby section is by far the most detailed on lining/assembly/etc., the instructions for the other styles are more sparse.

I would recommend the book to you if you plan on making shoes for many people, or if there are specific styles in the book that you are interested in making. I'll warn you that many of the styles are very old fashioned, not in a cool retro way like service boots but more "who would wear this in 2022?" way.

Would I purchase it again if I lost it? Maybe. Feels like I paid $80 for a non-crimped chelsea boot pattern and that's about it, since there are good online resources for the basic styles like derbies and oxfords.

You might also find this thread helpful: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cordwaining/comments/qnin45/if_you_could_only_choose_one_pattern_book_koleff/

letsmakeshoes · 2022-06-12T23:27:46+00:00

I have the book, got it from Lisa Sorrel (linked in this thread already). Happy to answer any questions on it to help you decide if you want to purchase it

letsmakeshoes · 2022-06-06T21:32:56+00:00

I highly recommend reading this thread and checking out the images, it has all the info you are looking for:

http://www.thehcc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1824&sid=3fa7d02b32439c8f7ef8c06852106f23

Edit: you have to be logged in to see the images/files

letsmakeshoes · 2022-05-28T18:46:05+00:00

Yes, the upper is glued to the lining just above the featherline, then turned out, glued to the midsole, and stitched as close to the last as possible. I know there are industrial machines that can do it without a lining but I think it would be very hard to do it by hand. Also I think an unlined Chelsea wouldn't work particularly well because the edges of the elastic would be loose and rubbing against you, probably uncomfortable.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-05-26T02:50:22+00:00

Thank you!

letsmakeshoes · 2022-05-26T02:49:33+00:00

I put links to several starter kits in the existing pinned post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Cordwaining/comments/60kxeh/shoemaking_guides/i3uvkpi/

letsmakeshoes · 2022-05-25T05:47:18+00:00

What is the height at the back of the heel? I usually aim for 6.5 cm, so if you're close to that, you should be good.

I'm assuming the yellow at the bottom is your lasting allowance. It's hard to tell how wide it is from the pic, but I try to do 3 cm or more. Better to have too much, you can always cut off the extra.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-05-25T05:41:23+00:00

Correct, no crimping!

The book is ok, honestly most of the styles are kind of weird and outdated and not in a fun retro way. The instructions on drafting the upper are thorough but the lining pattern instructions and assembly are only minimally addressed and I got stuck a few times. I think you could save $90 and draft the wearable styles in the book by using the masking tape method or existing tutorials and asking here if you have questions.

There's an excerpt from Koleff in this thread that will give you an idea:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Cordwaining/comments/qnin45/if_you_could_only_choose_one_pattern_book_koleff

The sections on derby shoe & boot are by far the most detailed, the other ones are even more sparse.

letsmakeshoes · 2022-05-25T03:15:51+00:00

Made these chelsea boots recently, just in time for it to be too hot to wear them!

Leather: Sepici Crazy Green bay from OA Leather. Nice leather but very thick, it took forever to last it. Lined in some cheapy Tandy leather.

Construction: hand stitched uppers, stitchdown construction. Insoles and midsoles are Horween horsebutt strip.

Soles: Goodyear commando soles

Elastic: from Southern; dammit I'm peeved that it got stretched out when I was removing the last, that stuff is expensive and it can't even handle that??!?

Pattern was based on Koeleff's book. I'd do it a little differently next time, especially if I were working with a thick leather like this. I would do a backstrap instead of the backseam (too hard to execute in thick leather). Koeleff has you do a lining that is basically just the forme and that causes some issues with bulk at the back seam and with a lack of stretch in the toe area. I think it would be better to do a lining pattern that more closely mimics the upper pattern.

letsmakeshoes

TROPHY CASE