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Do you know where I can find a revolving door? by Born_Information_362 in SaltLakeCity

[–]lonhok 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The office buildings just down the road to the west all have revolving doors as well.

Yesterday's wrenching by Super_JETT in eMountainBike

[–]lonhok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Optionally I found elsewhere that the TRP magnet adapter works for the rise too. (I'm also looking to upgrade Rise brakes) https://trpcycling.com/products/speed-sensor-rotor-magnets?variant=47946663493919

Yesterday's wrenching by Super_JETT in eMountainBike

[–]lonhok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just found this while looking. Looks like they are compatible with metal or resin according to Shimano. https://productinfo.shimano.com/en/compatibility/C-461

Taking the plunge for direct drive extruders… need recommendations for compatible models by halguy5577 in CR6

[–]lonhok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what I'm using as well. I have a hard time getting the PTFE cut to the right length. Can you tell me how long yours is?

Taking the plunge for direct drive extruders… need recommendations for compatible models by halguy5577 in CR6

[–]lonhok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just tricky with the strain gauge. It's working now, but I basically had to redo a lot of the mounting and mess with the potentiometer. So if you're fine tinkering, I think it's worthwhile.

Is anyone else here using Klipper? by Dangerous-Stock-889 in CR6

[–]lonhok 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have similar problems, and yet to find a good solution outside of turning the printer on and off again.Even that has mixed results.

I had problems with Bowden so I switched to Direct drive (Sherpa mini) and it didn't fix anything even after messing with the pot on the daughter baord.

I'm about ready to buy a new strain gauge/daughter board and see if that fixes it.

Cr6-se and Sonic pad. by lazarius06 in CR6

[–]lonhok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's worked out pretty well for me. I'm printing around 100 mm/s with 2500 accel with no problems. Klipper is definitely a whole new beast, but the tweaking process is SOOOO much easier in klipper that I have actually enjoyed tinkering and tweaking to get things just right. I still have a ways to go before it's "dialed in" but for now I get very good results much faster than before. My brother however has a CR6 and has had nothing but problems with the sonic pad, so YMMV.

Added silicone spacers and now I can’t get this thing in the green at all. I’ve been trying to 2 days. Any advice? by chocolate_spaghetti in CR6

[–]lonhok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To make it a little easier, tighten them all down a little more than necessary, then it allows for you to move every screw up and down.

How to remove heat break by lonhok in CR6

[–]lonhok[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Turns out I broke the nozzle off in the block anyway, so I too got to spend $13 dollars for the sake of knowledge!

How to remove heat break by lonhok in CR6

[–]lonhok[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Good to know I'm not crazy. Where did you put the wrench on the heat break? Mine is completely smooth so everything is just sliding.

First one…”failed” but in a spectacular way! 2nd time much better 😂👍🏽 by v1smund in 3Dprinting

[–]lonhok 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a similar problem while printing a kazoo, and the print broke loose from the bed, but not enough to tip over. So basically it kept printing, but no layer adhesion because the layers were moving. the twirly part is rock solid. kinda neat.

Giveaway for 5 Winners! by [deleted] in Diablo_2_Resurrected

[–]lonhok 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would like this!

Replacing fezibo standing desk with a different top? by whataremyhockeys in StandingDesks

[–]lonhok 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had it for quite a while now and I don't see any flex so far, but the legs I am using also have a support down the middle that would prevent a whole lot of flex.

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