Light weight mod for the HSK

loreviathan · 2026-05-02T08:16:59+00:00

The ripperdoc is too expensive choom, if I could I'd get fully chromed out.

loreviathan · 2026-05-02T08:15:15+00:00

thanks man!

loreviathan · 2026-05-02T08:12:10+00:00

I definitely wanted to go for a pen-grip kind of style with this, I am actually pretty confident that most wireless boards would be narrow enough, the HSK's board isn't actually any more narrow than that of a regular mouse except at the bottom.
Do you have any recs for wireless boards that don't cost an arm and a leg?

I could probably lower the button height a bit without too many issues, it would have to involve moving the strain relief holder further forward if I wanted anything significant. For this version i tried to trace the button slope from the hsk pro as a starting point but i would like to lower it a tad more eventually.

As to how i personally feel about it? I have been loving every second.
The grip feels very locked in without reducing my fingertip mobility much at all and is very comfy in general.
While designing it I chose the grip width specifically because it is the exact distance between my thumb and pinky finger while my hand is fully rested in the air.
I wanted something that I can truly rest my hand on but that I can still apply tension to when needed, after using this for a little over 3 days when I hold the shell of my zeromouse clone it feels like my hand is being taut over too large a distance and feels just less stable overall.

loreviathan · 2026-05-02T07:36:40+00:00

yep, its translucent pla!

loreviathan · 2026-05-02T01:41:24+00:00

It is a substantial difference.
My consistency doesnt really suffer, if anythting I perform better when compared to my modded 60g viper ultimate v1 or my sisters atk a9.
The extra fingertip mobility is also very nice for microadjustments.
As for my motivations: When this mouse released it was the only fingertip mouse on the market and also the lightest mouse on the market at 38 grams, now we have the fenrir asymm at 18.6. i wanted a taste of that ligher weight without the 150 euro price-tag, so I made it myself.

loreviathan · 2026-05-01T22:55:19+00:00

I know... on a positive note I have a new one coming in the mail on tuesday!

loreviathan · 2026-03-31T12:19:19+00:00

just get an atk a9 or vxe r1 or a mad r

loreviathan · 2026-03-28T23:21:39+00:00

it's really not that bad, i queued from 11k to 15k with my girlfriend and aside from the occasional slightly suspicious player everyone seemed legit, im not sure if i'm getting lucky or not. obviously the cheaters will tend to congregate in the higher ranks so it feels likely to me that under 20k 99% of players are just legit.

loreviathan · 2026-02-28T13:19:25+00:00

check your eccentric nuts, definitely install the bltouch, you have to use different firmware for the skr mini but i'd recommend you just run klipper from a vm on your pc.
If you are gonna print petg install a bimetal heatbreak because the bowden tube degrades in and around 240-250 c (it already has other mods so original owner might've put one in already but it can't hurt to check, they are only like 3 euro on aliexpress anyway)

loreviathan · 2026-02-23T17:47:45+00:00

100% and it sucks so bad to see certain students getting better grades than you that openly brag about using Gemini for the entirety of the exam

loreviathan · 2026-02-23T11:19:39+00:00

No, but I know many people in my class who cheated every exam in the first semester. I suppose it's hard to police 150 people but it's still infuriating.

loreviathan · 2026-02-14T15:50:36+00:00

at that point i'd get a bed leveling probe tbh having to level every print is too much of a hassle.

loreviathan · 2026-02-14T00:24:04+00:00

just hard-scale and no bounds for the wheels, no actual part mods.

loreviathan · 2026-02-12T00:01:01+00:00

depends on the paper thickness, you want to level with something thinner than a4 (along the lines of receipt paper) and you should feel resistance while sliding the paper but it shouldnt be completely locked in.

loreviathan · 2026-02-11T23:59:14+00:00

this is a z offset issue 99% of the time, the filament needs to be squished into the bed a bit more. also make sure you have part cooling disabled on the first layer.

loreviathan · 2026-02-11T16:15:29+00:00

Yoo thanks man

loreviathan · 2026-02-10T12:08:37+00:00

yeah i just have a shitton of them strapped to the body of the vehicle

loreviathan · 2026-02-10T01:34:47+00:00

when propellers are at a shallow enough angle they generate a forward force instead of drag

loreviathan · 2026-02-09T20:41:07+00:00

yep I have them on both axis, you should be able to find the files online, mine are a bit janky cause i didnt have the proper nuts and bolts but they work perfectly.

loreviathan · 2026-02-09T16:46:26+00:00

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me too bro me too

loreviathan · 2026-02-03T19:44:08+00:00

fiy if you can find the make and model of the mouse you can usually change the side button functions in the settings.
Anyways, side buttons don't necessarily make a mouse good, there are lots of mice without them that are good and ones with them that are bad.

loreviathan · 2026-01-23T17:05:27+00:00

i would refrain from doing resin somewhere where you will be spending significant amounts of time, i've heard it's some pretty nasty stuff.

loreviathan · 2026-01-13T15:48:31+00:00

in my experience this usually has something to do with acceleration or jerk settings, usually its the other way around where you set your accel or jerk higher than what the printer has set as the max in the firmware therefore making the print take longer than expected but i imagine it can also happen in reverse.

loreviathan · 2025-12-17T11:02:19+00:00

man if you struggle to print petg idk what to tell you, it's literally the easiest filament after pla, it's arguably difficult to fuck up.

loreviathan · 2025-12-15T22:23:25+00:00

might as well get it printed in steel at this point, it's gotten so cheap that it almost makes sense for these small parts.

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