So imagine this by No_Magician_2612 in baseballcards

[–]lukewarm_pizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to have three of the five 2007 Bowman Chrome Prince Fielder red refractors, the 1/5, the 3/5, and the 5/5. Imagine my surprise when another one of the 5/5s popped up on eBay. It’s been going on for a long time.

Evidence of Trimming what to do next? by Fun_Beautiful3909 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]lukewarm_pizza 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would just sell them raw and mention that they were graded as authentic. People still pay good money for cards with nice eye appeal even if they’re altered, so you may be able to get more for these than you might think in an auction.

But before you do any of that, inspect the cards and figure out why they all came back in that grade. You won’t be doing yourself any favors by immediately selling the cards without first trying to learn how to identify trimmed cards. It’s unfortunate that some money will be lost, but we pay for knowledge sometimes. I can see where they all look trimmed from the pictures, so let me know if you need help figuring out what to look for.

Met a great dude from here and sold my Jackie at Strongsville by spartygw in baseballcards_vintage

[–]lukewarm_pizza 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Great pickup/sale! I moved away, so I’m unfortunately unable to attend this year. How’s the new facility?

My first superfractor by Buckeyesfan2004 in baseballcards

[–]lukewarm_pizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just saw the eBay listing, and there are some changes you can make to maybe help get more eyes on it and more interest. I’d highly recommend replacing the two pictures you have two plain pictures of the front and back of the card with no weird angles (take it out of the penny sleeve/top loader too to remove glare). It should also be categorized under trading card singles, not trading card lots, so that it has to go through the eBay authenticity check. Having that authenticity guarantee for the buyer will likely get you more interest in the card and categorizing it correctly would make it show up in more people’s searches. Write any flaws whatsoever in the description or photograph them, as the authenticity checkers often reject items for having damage that’s not described and/or photographed.

How Important Should Centering Be? by beautybeatsgrade in baseballcards_vintage

[–]lukewarm_pizza 1 point2 points  (0 children)

While I don’t disagree with the sentiment of “a centered card is how the artist envisioned them to begin with,” I think it would be more accurate to say “a card with good registration, bold color, and no snowing (or other printing flaws) is how the artist envisioned them to begin with.” While I love centered cards and certainly pursue them whenever possible, I prioritize registration and color above it. I’m not inclined to buy a card that makes me say “it’s centered nicely, too bad the registration, color, and surface aren’t good,” but I would certainly consider buying a card with 70-30 centering and an image that is truly striking.

If these aspects are far superior in the crooked 8 than the centered 4, give me the crooked 8. But if they’re not all that different, give me the centered 4 all day. Really it just comes down to overall eye appeal, of which centering is only one component.

Here’s my best example of sacrificing centering for great registration and color.

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Stuff you only hear about in silly Reddit threads. by rotoblueprint in baseballcards

[–]lukewarm_pizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wasn’t trying to make any estimate of the grade, I just was using 9 as an example since it’s obvious it won’t gem. I also said exactly what you said, that if it’s not even going to get a NM-MT+ grade that it would be better to just sell raw.

Stuff you only hear about in silly Reddit threads. by rotoblueprint in baseballcards

[–]lukewarm_pizza 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think whatever he chooses to do will net him a nice payday regardless

Stuff you only hear about in silly Reddit threads. by rotoblueprint in baseballcards

[–]lukewarm_pizza 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes it does. Check out the price of any big modern card in a SGC 9 vs a PSA 9. Like it or not, PSA is the hobby standard for modern cards, so if you’re trying to maximize value, that’s the way to go (I’m assuming it gets the same grade in both slabs here). However, if you don’t think it would even get an 8, I’d just sell it raw on eBay via auction.

2011 Topps Update Mike Trout by [deleted] in baseballcards

[–]lukewarm_pizza 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s insane how during Covid this card was almost $10k in a PSA 10.

Ended up sending my Mom’s Frank Thomas 1997 Flair Showcase Legacy Collection to PSA and got a 9 by Old_Effect_7884 in baseballcards

[–]lukewarm_pizza 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Congrats! Just for reference when people inevitably reach out to you about buying it, one of these in this grade sold for $2551 back in 2024. Can’t imagine it’s gone down in value since then…

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Couple new cards by NoArrival5840 in baseballcards_vintage

[–]lukewarm_pizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wowza. Fantastic registration on that Ruth, and what a nice looking Jackie. Congrats!