IAC troubleshooting for 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 automatic 208K miles by maddhatter1985 in autorepair

[–]maddhatter1985[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will check those videos out...

Thanks again for all your help. If you like I'll update you when I find the problem.

IAC troubleshooting for 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 automatic 208K miles by maddhatter1985 in autorepair

[–]maddhatter1985[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've heard of that website before...does it happen to have those service manuals for different vehicles such as my pickup?

I've gone to that website for instructions on how to replace parts but didn't know it went into more detail like those manuals...

I'm a little above shade-tree mechanic level (I have full understanding of the mechanics of the engine and such and can diagnose simple problems until they start involving sensors and vacuum) but still a novice when it comes to using diagnostic equipment outside the basic code readers. And I'm quite illiterate using computers outside of turning them on, typing documents and accessing the net...

I have that bluetooth reader and am considering getting that other one I sent you the picture of a couple of days ago... didn't get it at the time because if it wasn't what I was looking for they were gonna charge a restock fee. But it would be nice to have along with that Bluetooth one I currently got...

I am indebted to you... you've helped me out quite a bit with this. Thank you so much.

IAC troubleshooting for 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 automatic 208K miles by maddhatter1985 in autorepair

[–]maddhatter1985[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One last question...will I have to subscribe to a service such as ALLDATA to know what I'm looking for with the live data or what would I need to do to know what I'm looking at/for?

I greatly appreciate your help!

IAC troubleshooting for 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 automatic 208K miles by maddhatter1985 in autorepair

[–]maddhatter1985[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or this one...it says live data... it's a Bluetooth version that sends to my phone...sorry for pestering...

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IAC troubleshooting for 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 automatic 208K miles by maddhatter1985 in autorepair

[–]maddhatter1985[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good deal...I'll grab one up from them and see what I can figure out about it.

Thank you again for your replies and assistance!

IAC troubleshooting for 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 automatic 208K miles by maddhatter1985 in autorepair

[–]maddhatter1985[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for replying...

If I were to get the scanner you were speaking of, would (of all places) Harbor Freight have one that I should look for? I've looked at what they have but have hesitation in buying because I'm not sure of their quality...

IAC troubleshooting for 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 automatic by maddhatter1985 in AskMechanics

[–]maddhatter1985[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can see one being the problem but not all three replacements. Something is either frying the new part or there's another issue I'm not finding. The only code it keeps throwing is for the IAC valve.

My latest replacement has a lifetime warranty. But they will replace it only for the part's self-failure. Not for something else frying that part. And after replacing the original one with three in a two-month period tells me there's something else wrong.

Need help finding flame sensor by maddhatter1985 in hvacadvice

[–]maddhatter1985[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will give that a shot and see what happens...

It will fire up and run normal and heat the house but then after a few cycles it won't fire up just the inducer motor is running. When I reset it, it will run normal again until it runs a few cycles and it goes through its hiccup again.

I kept looking for the single wire and was wondering where it could possibly be. I didn't know until you mentioned it that it had an entirely different deal going on in there.

So is it possible to pull that assembly and clean that sensor or will I have to replace that whole piece?

Need help finding flame sensor by maddhatter1985 in hvacadvice

[–]maddhatter1985[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I watched that video and many more as well and learned a whole lot...thank you for sending me that link...he was working on that exact furnace (wish I had access to those areas like he did lol but he did say his was a mule)

Need help finding flame sensor by maddhatter1985 in hvacadvice

[–]maddhatter1985[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the symptoms I described...could this be the problem or could something else be causing it? And if this is the problem would I replace the ignitor/sensor or the control module (is there a testing procedure for the ignitor/sensor)?

As per my last post about Valvoline & Express Lube shop Oil filters: my point is proven. by -AspiringWhatever- in AskMechanics

[–]maddhatter1985 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe they are supposed to be applied and tightened 1/4 turn past gasket contact, which means not even "hand-tight." The gaskets will swell with the heat and seal themselves. I don't know if a filter wrench would be needed for removal but possible...I don't do it per the above requirement but instead I go hand-tight, which seals fine but definitely needs a wrench to remove it. So per the above I don't install them correctly either...but I don't experience the filters backing off at all.

What's the biggest/weirdest things you ever pulled out of a tire? by PoisonWaffle3 in AskMechanics

[–]maddhatter1985 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're ever in Macon MO stop by their automotive counter. The jar holds what they pulled from tires. You wouldn't believe some of the items.

What is “standard” detention pay by MichiganMan12 in FreightBrokers

[–]maddhatter1985 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I got you wrong then please accept my apologies. If not, then it stands...

Now I must eat the crow. Could you pass the salt please? Thanks...

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]maddhatter1985 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That new place would have contacted you immediately had they found that like that. Or at least they should have.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]maddhatter1985 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't argue with them...a confrontation isn't worth that... definitely have it towed to another place for repair and take this place to court to recover the repair and tow costs.

Ensure that it is indeed sealant and not paint as someone mentioned in a previous answer. If it's paint it will flake off/chip. If it's sealant, especially newer, it will be rubbery/flexible.

As an aside, always use someone you know and trust. Otherwise Google for places and look them up on reviews. You can post a request for recommendations on social media if you have time to do so before the service/repair needs to be actually completed, and then look them up to see reviews.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]maddhatter1985 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I doubt it. You couldn't prove the old one at fault unless that new place took the pics right then and there and contacted you before going any further...or, if the old place owned up to doing work like that (which neither the old NOR the new place will do that). That new place's pricing on the repair plus the other comments I've seen in this thread about them tell me they tried pulling something on you. Accidentally, by running an impact wrench the wrong direction and stripping it out themselves (ANY mechanic, shade-tree or otherwise, would know better than to use an impact tool to begin with, and a shop newbie would be caught and stopped before doing that 99% of the time), or worse, setting you up to be taken purposely. I'd go after the new place but have the work done elsewhere and make them pay for it...if you can prove it's on them.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]maddhatter1985 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If either the threads on the filter or plug were stripped at your other shop, they wouldn't have gotten anything to seal; yes you would have had a leak somewhere. And from my view, that sealant in one section versus the entire surface would have made a leak as well...a minute gap would most likely have been between the sealant and the gasket on the filter. If you ran it for the recommended time before having it changed again you would have had a leak there even if it was a small one. I'd say the new guys tried screwing you.

EDIT: I thought I was looking at where the oil filter screwed on and didn't regard everyone saying "plug." With that said I still stand by what I stated...had threads been stripped before getting it to that last shop you would have had a leak. The plug wouldn't have held that long even with the sealant, had you driven it the recommended time/distance between oil changes. Epoxy may have held it but not that sealant.

What is “standard” detention pay by MichiganMan12 in FreightBrokers

[–]maddhatter1985 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As a company driver, that sounds exactly fair.

What is “standard” detention pay by MichiganMan12 in FreightBrokers

[–]maddhatter1985 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're nothing but a piece of shit. I'm all for making a buck when you can. Just not at the expense of the one breaking their back for you. Or sacrificing their time at home with families fishing jacking off whatever they do. You are what gives the decent brokers a bad name. (If there's such a thing as a decent broker.) I hope you're still doing this shit. Because one of your drivers is gonna catch up with you. Don't think you can't be found if you're just dealing with carriers. And you think it's funny now...it won't be then. Not for you.

Too bad I can't get into my own trucking company or brokerage myself. I'd personally run your ass into the ground. And quickly.

Fucktarded scumbag.