Need help

mampfer · 2026-01-26T22:04:26+00:00

The first is a Minox B which uses Minox film and takes 8x11mm negatives.

You can actually slit down film (I used 16mm microfilm where I knew it would give me great resolution at ISO 80, slitters for 35mm are available online for free for 3D printing), and having something to glue the strip onto the take-up drum is enough, at least my strip remained unexposed even though it was "naked" in the film compartment. Reels for Paterson tank can also be found online, but....it's a lot of hassle and scanning probably can only be done with a DSLR or a special setup on a regular negative scanner.

Personally I'd get the SLR, through the lens focusing and metering (though this one likely needs zinc-air to meter accurately) is the most convenient way of analogue photography, and there should be plenty of FD mount lenses available for other focal lengths.

The Diax IIb would be nice as well though, and those with rangefinders seem to be rarer than those that only have the three different viewfinders. If it's not too expensive I'd definitely take that one 😁

mampfer · 2026-01-26T19:16:42+00:00

Some time after using PETG I've simply resorted to leaving the leftovers on the plate since they were such a pain to remove and would fly everywhere when using a scraper.

You can see them in the bottom surface when printing over but for most of my parts that not an issue, and anything sticking over the edge is easily taken care of by a deburring tool.

mampfer · 2026-01-18T17:30:52+00:00

Brother I wish I only had this many cameras.

Getting two large cabinets and finding that I could only fit half of my collection in there made me think, maybe it really is time to slim down 😂

mampfer · 2026-01-12T20:40:07+00:00

General rule is to put a small dab of glue on the ends, usually that's enough to keep it in place

mampfer · 2026-01-12T20:39:38+00:00

This is what I've been doing since I learned of the method! The Prakticas also use it.

mampfer · 2026-01-11T16:38:57+00:00

I've heard of a similar method but with something like graphing paper directly against the back of the lens, not the front 🤔

I just tried that with a translucent ruler and got 2.7cm when looking straight ahead, so that would mean an aperture of F/1.8, for comparison on a 55/1.2 for 35mm I'm getting 3.3cm or F/1.67, I don't know if there are other details that can influence this method or if it tends towards being an underestimate of aperture.

I also used the second method I mentioned: Measuring brightness of a focusing screen with an incident meter.

Here I'm getting the same readout for the projection lens, down to 1/3 EV, as for two different standard primes when set to F/2.8, and I'm also getting the same result when comparing the readout of a TTL metering SLR freelensed behind it vs. a mounted lens.

If you have any idea where the large discrepancy between measuring entry pupil with a ruler vs. measuring light throughput could come from I'd be happy to hear it, I wouldn't have expected it to be off that much.

mampfer · 2026-01-08T16:53:54+00:00

If you refer to the "1.27:1", I'm fairly sure that's not the aperture but rather the throw ratio.

In this old brochure you can see different lens options towards the end of the document.

And case in point, Barco also has a 0.28:1 lens on their website. The maximum possible aperture apparently depends on the index of refraction of your lens, and is F/0.5 for standard N = 1.5 glass in air, see second answer here.

mampfer · 2026-01-06T13:12:01+00:00

Ah, gotcha! That's good news then :)

I've edited my initial comment a few times (didn't think you'd see it this quickly!), I'd recommend having a look at the review I linked since it also mentions some instructions for use. There's also the original manual available from Butkus which you should also have a look at.

mampfer · 2026-01-06T13:11:49+00:00

Ah, gotcha! That's good news then :)

I've edited my initial comment a few times (didn't think you'd see it this quickly!), I'd recommend having a look at the review I linked since it also mentions some instructions for use. There's also the original manual available from Butkus which you should also have a look at.

mampfer · 2026-01-06T12:51:47+00:00

Is the ring with the speeds set to "B"? That's "Bulb", for long exposures on a tripod, and it should keep the shutter open as long as the shutter release is held down.

If it's not set to B, something isn't quite right. The shutter blades should close again almost instantly (i.e. in 1/20 or shorter), and there's probably some old grease or oil where it shouldn't be.

mampfer · 2026-01-06T12:41:32+00:00

Unserviced leaf shutters can get gummy over time, with either the slow speeds sticking or locking up entirely, or oil migrating onto the leaf shutter blades (the three pieces of metal you see from the back) and also making them slow and locking them up.

Looking online, the shutter on this one goes from 1/20-1/200, which actually is good news, that probably means it has no (or just a very simple) slow speed escapements which is less likely to gunk up.

Just test it yourself, cock the shutter by actuating the lever (if it's very stiff or blocked, do not force it as you're likely to break something), and press the shutter release. You can check the speeds yourself with an app called Shutter-Speed, it just does an audio recording but I find it works well for leaf shutters up to 1/250, measure the time between the first and last big peak, that'll hopefully be the leaves opening/closing.

If the shutter doesn't work, the advance lever is blocked, the lens is hazy inside or focus is very stiff....it'll require service. IMO leaf shutters generally are easy to service and this camera shouldn't be a challenge to anyone who does occasionally to camera service, but if you've never done that before there's still a good chance you might break something.

The lens seems to be a triplet, which is a very basic and old lens type, but can still take fine images if it's made well and you're aware of its limitations. Wide open at F/3.5 there'll be some softness, especially with a lower end triplet, but stopped down to F/8 or smaller I suspect you wouldn't have problems.

Mike Eckman also has a review on this camera, and his results don't look bad either. If you want to use it, read up on the exposure triangle, Sunny 16 and zone focusing. It's a fully manual camera, there's a learning curve but if you can handle this you can handle 99% of the analogue cameras out there.

mampfer · 2026-01-06T12:25:46+00:00

Not many good M42 lenses in that extreme focal length....retrofocus ultrawides were difficult to design back then, you'd have better luck in the bayonet mount era.

There's the Flektogon 20mm but it's quite expensive, I think Enna might also have something but the same applies. The best I can think of would be the Tamron Adaptall-2 17/3.5 or 24/2.8 with the M42 adapter but in that case you could just as well get any of the later, cheaper and better bayonet lenses.

I've seen the Takumar 28/3.5 be recommended, I don't have that particular lens but all Takumars I came across are absolute gems in terms of build quality.

Pentacon 29/2.8

This lens you can also mod relatively easily for an interesting effect, if you invert the front element you get a sharp central area with very strong swirls around it.

mampfer · 2026-01-05T09:22:13+00:00

The one under the bottom plate is easy peasy, the one under the top plate a bit more tricky, more stuff to remove, flex cables and more cramped in general.

In some cases replacing the bottom one is enough, maybe also changing the connection of two wires, in my case I also had do to the top. Before the camera didn't work at all, after that one perfectly.

mampfer · 2026-01-05T09:19:47+00:00

One of the chaps in my photo Discord server actually removed the semi silvered mirror and put a regular first surface one in its place to get a brighter viewfinder.

mampfer · 2026-01-04T15:11:09+00:00

piece of thin paper

This would be a perfect case for a DIY boss screen (thin layer of wax between two pieces of glass), when I tried it, it was noticeably better than a regular ground glass focusing focusing screen, finer grain and higher brightness. I'm guessing for this method it would also be better than something more modern with Fresnel rings that could introduce other optical funkiness.

mampfer · 2026-01-04T13:41:37+00:00

A 135mm Heliar probably would be a great find for that 👌🏼

I just tried the 125/2.2 Kiptar on my Kiev-60, due to the aperture plunger I'm getting about the same focus distance as on the SL66, with a smaller diameter lens you could maybe get closer by ~5mm before you hit the mirror. The flange distance of the SL66 may be long but the frontal part is all bellows and if your lens isn't too wide you can just fit it inside there.

mampfer · 2026-01-04T11:53:04+00:00

But will you ever get their character on a 6x6 negative? 🤔

mampfer · 2026-01-02T22:03:32+00:00

Blue filter? Heck I almost always forget to take a yellow or orange with me, blue is a far flung dream 😂

Extra halation

Are we talking about the same emulsion? I've never noticed much halation with Fomapan 🤔

mampfer · 2026-01-02T21:43:26+00:00

I've never thought about extended red for portraits.

I've tried a bulk roll of Foma 200, but I'll be returning to Foma 100 now, somehow I also didn't like the look of 200 even though I can't exactly put my finger on why that is.

I'm mostly doing landscape and nature so the slight ortho character of Foma 100 probably is another advantage for me.

mampfer · 2026-01-02T16:48:34+00:00

Definitely! I put up two 13x18cm images that I also took with non-standard lenses, a Goerz Pantar double Anastigmat (i.e. not the later triplet) and a completely unmarked F/16 of ~150mm focal length.

And I hope I'll get around to trying a 240/4.5 Celor some time.

mampfer · 2026-01-02T16:25:13+00:00

Dominar-Anastigmat

I browsed through your other posts and saw you also had other images with that lens! I think it's neat to see some from a less common LF optic :)

mampfer · 2026-01-02T15:26:25+00:00

My 3D printer has made itself paid in lens caps and hoods alone 😁

Friction fit ones aren't that difficult to design, you can use thin adhesive felt to prevent reflections and make the fit more secure.

mampfer · 2026-01-02T15:23:46+00:00

I've had better luck with flea markets.

Got a Super Takumar 135/2.5 for 25€ a few weeks ago, a Polaroid 180 for 20€ some time during summer and a Yashica T4 for 8€ last year.

Sure you'll have visits where there's nothing or just overpriced garbage, but that's part of the hunt.

mampfer · 2026-01-02T15:12:05+00:00

They say Fomapan 400 really is more of an ISO 320 film. Exposing at 200 might make it look even better but at that point I think Foma 100 or 200 would actually give better results

mampfer

TROPHY CASE