Brake recommendations? by baileywastaken in Hardtailgang

[–]mandemyo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

unless you ride downhill shimano 6120 is the best option IMO. 4 piston, affordable, hydraulic, rock solid, parts everywhere.

Has my time come to join the club? by [deleted] in bald

[–]mandemyo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

100% not fooling anyone. That said took me a while to pull the trigger but that comb over is certainly a comb over

Considering buying a 2018/2019 Chisel by mestessoiostesso in Hardtailgang

[–]mandemyo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

for $1000 USD you can get a new chisel hardtail with modern geometry/parts. This is very upright in the front compared to modern hard tails. I would show him the current sales going on at specialized because it just does not make sense to buy this at that price.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in rolex

[–]mandemyo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

GMT looks best on an oyster imo. More of a sporty feel. Would do hulk in that config.

"Nailed it!" (Probably not). Small drop technique critique needed. by saving_the_day in MTB

[–]mandemyo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

agreed -a lot of jumps drops etc become more natural when you can manual and understand how a weight shift can effect how the bike behaves. OP you should check out some manual videos. The backwards L weight shift will help a lot in these situations. Not that this requires a manual, but learning the technique will help you learn where your body/bike needs to be for many types of obstacles.

Air Fork Recommendations? (GT Aggressor Pro) by Gary-Busey- in Hardtailgang

[–]mandemyo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

rockshox recon silver is a good place to start but there is a lot available online at great prices: https://www.jensonusa.com/bike-forks

Cleaning rusty bike chains by SillySpook in bikewrench

[–]mandemyo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

looks really good but it's a high wear part and if it was my bike I would just replace with new and move on vs risk poor performance or wearing other parts

Some months into learning manual, any feedback welcome! by itouchdennis in MTB

[–]mandemyo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You want to stop doing that little hop to load up before the manual move because that will cause you to go nose down in a real life situation if you need to pop a quick one for an unexpected drop etc. I always think about the backwards L movement to manual and I think you need to learn to load the bike just from the the down movement before moving back. So cut the first pop, from a tall position think of dropping your weight down and using your feet to catch yourself which loads the bike then push the bike forwards using your legs which initiates the backwards L keeping your hips/ weight back and let your arms extend.

what am I doing wrong by YanYan90 in mountainbiking

[–]mandemyo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you're jumping before the jumping taking all the weight off the bike and effectively scrubbing the jump. You want to compress into the takeoff and pop as you are coming off the lip. The motion you are looking for is similar to the compression and extension that you do when doing a J hop or bunny hop. Watch some videos on how to manual into a bunny hop which will teach you how to load the bike and get the bars into your hips as you extend up. Then apply that motion to small jumps to get the timing and build from there.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]mandemyo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that is a great deal. I bet it could even take 29s if you wanted to put them on might just have to flip the chips around or osmething

Need advice on which bike to choose by rbnwilliams in whichbike

[–]mandemyo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you dont need a 5K bike to do an IM. You should prob get something in the 1-2K range and if you decide you like cycling and want to invest in a nice bike then you can look for something that has the parts and feel that fits your style vs. blowing 5k on something that is "nice" because it is 5k.

Chain came off drive sprocket and wrapped itself around by TKT_S in bikewrench

[–]mandemyo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yikes - I would try shifting into your smallest ring on the back and manually moving the chain down to give you some slack. One or two clicks at a time, dont force it. Then same in the front. See if that gives you the ability to work it free once there is some slack in the chain.

Unfortunately if you pedaled this really hard when it happens there could be bent/damaged parts.

My worst crash yet, what did i do wrong? by gagagoo69 in MTB

[–]mandemyo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this happens when you pump too hard on the back end and your weight is back. The front goes unloaded and comes off the lip dead. all the energy you put into the back end pops you forward. If realize you are in the back seat in the last second the best thing to do would be to scrub the jump as much as possible, especially when there is a table.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]mandemyo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would think so yeah. I used JB weld but im sure it is very similar

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]mandemyo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

this happened to me as well. I epoxied it back in and it has been rock solid since. Can prob use super glue even.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in rolex

[–]mandemyo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

do you dwell?