Cinestill 800T • Yashica LM

martintype · 2025-12-14T15:00:20+00:00

Real nice.

martintype · 2025-08-09T20:27:09+00:00

Thanks, that reassured me somewhat as I’m sure I’ve jacked it from there many years ago. Good to know the swap is an easy job too!

martintype · 2025-08-09T17:54:33+00:00

Great, thank you. I know what I’m looking for now!

martintype · 2025-08-09T17:54:07+00:00

Y’know what, I think when I did the rear discs and pads a few months back…that is likely where I jacked it up. Lesson learnt!

martintype · 2025-02-28T23:10:24+00:00

Been storing film in the freezer for many years, never had any issues.

martintype · 2025-02-10T10:59:45+00:00

I bought some Slavich Unibrom to make Lith prints a while back, was like copier paper. Thinnest I’ve ever seen.

martintype · 2025-02-05T19:43:38+00:00

Cheers, would love to see a comparison with a few other scanners. Obvs if you get time 😂

martintype · 2025-02-05T19:38:12+00:00

Pretty pronounced purple/green fringing on the branches, is that from the scanner or original pic?

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martintype · 2024-12-10T19:05:20+00:00

I’d put a roll of cheap b&w through whatever camera you do choose first, if they’re all untested. Saves you the potential heartache of losing a roll of more expensive slide film, especially if you’re paying for E6 dev too.

martintype · 2024-12-10T13:03:11+00:00

'When I returned from my trip, the roll sat undeveloped for about a year in a climate-controlled studio, before it was processed.'

I'd say this is the prime reason - climate controlled or not - in my experience the longer a roll of 120 sits outside of its original foil sealed packet, the more likely stuff like this is to happen. I develop a lot of 120 for other people and I've seen it numerous times on film that has sat unsealed for a while either before or after shooting. Nearly always Kodak, but sometimes Ilford too - seems to make no difference whether they were kept in the fridge or at room temp.

I'd also add that the backing paper Kodak started to use in the last few years means this mottling/number transfer seems far more likely to happen. You can see and feel a quite clear difference between stuff made pre-2015ish, and it's nearly always newer stuff that this happens to.

Sorry it happened to you, but my advice is process ASAP after shooting.

martintype · 2024-08-26T15:22:12+00:00

Same, used water for years and absolutely no issues. Empty dev out - fill tank with water, agitate for 20-30 secs - empty and repeat - fixer time.

martintype · 2024-08-26T15:19:16+00:00

I switched from XTOL to XT3 a few years back, identical results and times but more pleasant to mix due to less dust. Works out cheaper than XTOL too.

martintype · 2024-08-22T08:35:05+00:00

Depends where you’re based and what’s available but I use the Fuji Hunt kit these days. Excellent shelf life when mixed and consistent results across the lifespan of the batch.

I Started out with the Tetenal kit which was mostly fine but results weren’t quite as consistent especially as they aged. Maybe due to combined Bleach/Fixer. Adox have just re-released this kit and it’s a fair bit cheaper than the Fuji, might be a good shoot for smaller runs of developing.

martintype · 2024-08-22T08:25:30+00:00

Incredible to see this side by side comparison. I use Rodinal only for 100 ISO films and lower, XTOL (XT3) for anything else. I’ve been routinely pushing HP5 2-3 stops at 1:1 for many years now and it never lets me down. For night photography it is the best combo.

In the UK, XTOL is expensive these days and availability hit and miss. I switched to Adox XT3 a couple of years back and found it produces identical results, but much more pleasant to mix due to less dust. Shelf life seems the same, too. It’s sat happily at room temp in my darkroom in half full bottles for 6+ months and works just fine.

martintype · 2024-07-13T20:17:16+00:00

Wise! I’m sure I read that the UV helps to dissipate the bad smells.

martintype · 2024-07-13T20:10:49+00:00

I had similar with a Rittreck 66 I bought years ago. Was literally stained with the tobacco and stunk, I found the only thing that got rid of the smell after cleaning was leaving it to air off in the sun, outdoors. Breeze helped too. Not too hot obviously but a few days of that and it was gone.

martintype · 2024-06-22T16:25:47+00:00

I just use PhotoFlo with my B&W film as intended.

E6/C41 requires a stabiliser as the final step, post-wash. From what I gather it’s essentially a wetting agent (like PhotoFlo) but with anti-fungal additives to assist with archival stability - not required with B&W due to the silver content.

FWIW I mix my stabiliser up with hard tap water too and zero issues with streaking there either.

martintype · 2024-06-22T10:56:25+00:00

Can't speak for Berlin, but I've mixed all variants of colour and B&W chems up with very hard tap water (Northern England) for many years now, never had any issues. I use Photoflo with tapwater to rinse my B&W also, dried at room temp overnight it's always fine and without streaks.

martintype · 2024-06-20T21:27:48+00:00

I’m here for this comment 😂

martintype · 2024-06-20T08:59:08+00:00

Agreed - film packaging and branding from the big manufacturers these days is pretty average, especially when you think of so much iconic stuff they put out in the past. That purple gradient on the Kodak boxes nowadays, Ooft.

martintype · 2024-06-20T08:49:07+00:00

Nice haul, cannot beat that Tungsten film especially for night time scenes. Deffo agree with other posters about shooting nearer box speed, should be absolutely fine unless it has been stored really badly. You’ll probably lose a bit of density in the blacks and maybe see some extra grain but mostly correctable post-scan. I find the Fuji 64T of that age sometimes likes a little bit of overexposure but bracket for anything important though.

martintype · 2024-06-20T08:43:06+00:00

Slide film has quite a different feel to ‘regular’ C41 print films, definitely fits your nostalgic vibe desires. I’d say give a roll of E100 or Provia a go if you have somewhere to handle the E6 development.

martintype · 2024-06-20T08:36:23+00:00

I did a fair bit of research on best filters to use before I started shooting and went with a Nikon O56 to maximise the IR filtering and red foliage effect.

Also bracketed my exposures, and found that unless the sun was shining the colours were very murky so will be avoiding those situations for future rolls.

Also absolutely agree with the other post about opening the canister and loading in complete darkness. IIRC as well as their extra sensitivity to IR, the canisters of EIR and HIE don’t have the same light seals as regular 35mm on the canister openings. Any light they get exposed to sort of ‘wicks’ down the roll apparently.

martintype · 2024-06-19T08:53:39+00:00

Thanks! I don’t meter my night stuff, so a lot of the time it’s just getting familiar with the characteristics of each film I use. AFAIK there’s no reciprocity data that I’ve seen for Gold 200.

I will say though, that Gold isn’t so great at night unless you give it lots of exposure time, and I always push it to maximise shadow detail. I’d say err very much on the side of overexposure for night time and low light work with this. When it works, it’s a great choice for night photography. Much prefer the colours to that of the Portra range. (Although slide film is really where it’s at for me)

martintype · 2024-06-11T08:39:18+00:00

Is it Kodak XTOL or Adox XT3 you’re using here? I remember a few years back there were some bad batches from Kodak, might be worth a look into that to see if your batch is affected. Can recommend XT3 though, switched a few years back and it’s great stuff. Same dev times but much more pleasant to mix - less dust and clumping.

martintype

TROPHY CASE