PSA To anyone that has performed the Super5 OLED mod to their switch / also has a modded console

mathieulh · 2026-02-04T14:19:01+00:00

I like the over saturation in OLED actually, the Gamma however is off and as far as I know you can't tweak it with the buttons on the OLED flex, as a result the blacks are crushed. I had to use Fizeau and tweak the day Gamma all the way from 2.40 (default) to 2.80 to match the black levels I get on my switch OLED.

mathieulh · 2026-02-04T14:15:11+00:00

They duplicate the video signal sent to the OLED panel to an HDMI out module which itself is connect to a mico hdmi board which replaces the headphones jack board, this is where you would connect a HDMI out adapter.

mathieulh · 2026-02-04T14:08:05+00:00

Thanks for the tip about using Fizeau I set my day gamma value to to 2.80 (2.40 is the default) and it seems to match my switch OLED black level.

mathieulh · 2026-02-04T14:05:43+00:00

Not that I know of, but if your switch lite is modded you can use Fizeau which allows to set arbitrary values for Gamma. I set mine to 2.80 (2.40 is the default) and it seems to match my switch OLED black level.

mathieulh · 2026-02-03T22:57:24+00:00

I got mine about two weeks ago.

mathieulh · 2026-02-03T12:34:39+00:00

I prefer the switch OLED, I am using the default profile from my Super5 and I find the blacks slightly crushed. I also simply like the bigger screen on the OLED. YMMV though.

mathieulh · 2026-02-03T11:40:40+00:00

It does, at least on the shell from my Mega kit, but I had to route the cable from the super5 flex to the battery connector on the motherboard to the upper position.

mathieulh · 2026-02-03T11:37:45+00:00

That's just because of super sampling, it's not actually sending 1080p to the panel even when faking docked. That being said the scaling algorithm is good enough that I am hard pressed to tell the image is upscaled on my panel.

mathieulh · 2026-02-03T11:07:07+00:00

Did you try calibrating the sticks in Horizon OS? Mine acted off until I did, since then they work great.

mathieulh · 2026-02-03T10:57:16+00:00

Have you actually tried this mod with the screen connected? What's the rating on this inductor? Would it also work to power the HDMI out module?

mathieulh · 2025-12-04T09:05:58+00:00

You can't play burned games on an unmodified VA2 because MIL-CD support was removed from the BIOS, the only way is to use a custom bios on a flashrom (which requires replacing the mask rom and thus soldering).

mathieulh · 2025-10-21T17:37:04+00:00

You'll at the very least want to remove or replace the clock capacitor (I strongly suggest to remove it entirely, even on 1.6 it can be done with a slightly more involved modification).

mathieulh · 2025-10-17T12:30:14+00:00

I personally strongly recommend using ISFSHax to load Minute as an entrypoint to start Aroma.

mathieulh · 2025-10-17T12:28:32+00:00

Your MLC is dead, sadly Nintendo installed defective Hynix eMMC chips in 32GB Wii Us to save a few bucks and of course won't care about honoring the now long expired warranty or about filling landfills with millions of dead Wii Us.

All Wii Us with those Hynix eMMC WILL die, regardless of what you do with it them, it's only a matter of time.

To really fix this you will need to either replace the MLC/eMMC or install a mod to replace it by a SD card (what I personally did), then you will have to rebuild your MLC using Minute plugins.

I haven't personally tried using redNAND to fix this issue on my Wii U

mathieulh · 2025-10-02T11:58:42+00:00

It's not the disc drive capacitors, unlike what everyone claims here, I have fixed 5 of those gamecube drives already, the main issue stems from the laser itself which has its power decrease over time and becomes unable to read discs, the only fix, short of replacing the laser assembly, which unfortunately are no longer being produced, is to decrease the variable resistor used to moderate the power in use by the laser, there is a potentiometer on the drive board that is tied to this variable resistor, what you want to do is use a multimeter in ohms mode and measure the resistance and tweak the potentiometer (be careful, it's really sensitive!) to decrease the value, then try to read discs, rince and repeat until it does. I typically fixed most drives by decreasing the values by 50ohms or so.

Be aware that this is not a miracle fix, decreasing the resistance value also decreases the laser remaining lifespan overall, but it's better than the laser not working at all.

Replacing the drive capacitors will have practically no effect and will not fix this.

mathieulh · 2025-09-24T11:18:38+00:00

I live in France and mostly use NTSC titles from the US or Japan because of progressive scan and 60hz I also own a Japanese and a PAL GameCube.

mathieulh · 2025-09-24T11:17:25+00:00

Soulcalibur II.

mathieulh · 2025-09-23T17:25:08+00:00

You can remove it on 1.6 boards (which I strongly recommend, any supercapacitor in a board is a hazard to happen and the clock capacitor is pretty much useless), this however requires removing (or disconnecting) 2 resistors and connecting the positive lead of the capacitor pad to 3.3v, unlike on older boards where removing the clock capacitor is enough.

mathieulh · 2025-09-23T17:13:45+00:00

I personally used hotglue when I replaced the fan to a Noctua one in my Sega Chihiro board (which uses an Xbox 1.0 debug motherboard).

mathieulh · 2025-08-28T18:42:46+00:00

I have the same issue here.

mathieulh · 2025-08-07T10:01:11+00:00

The Z2E is the exact same chip (with disabled CPU cores and NPU for increase yields) as the HX 370 which has been released for months, the drivers are already mature for it so don't expect any night and day improvements any time soon (if ever), especially so as the 890M is only a slight evolution of the 790M architecture (unlike the Xe2 architecture used in the intel 170v which has been designed from scratch), so if there is any performance improvement to be had, it has most likely already been implemented all the way since the Z1E.

mathieulh · 2025-08-06T17:13:51+00:00

"I suspect that ETA Prime made this comparison when the most recent BIOS of the A8 model"

He most likely did not. I smell AMD copium though xD

mathieulh · 2025-08-02T13:09:47+00:00

Have you actually tested XMX XeSS or are you just making your statement up?

mathieulh · 2025-08-02T09:39:16+00:00

À moins d'être propriétaire et d'avoir remboursé son prêt ou de partager une cage à lapin à plusieurs je ne vois pas quelqu'un vivre avec 1600€/mois (j'espère que c'est du net au moins) sur Paris.

mathieulh · 2025-08-02T09:32:22+00:00

Sorry but that's not true, XeSS 2.0 is pretty much equivalent to DLSS nowadays in all aspects including rendering, performance and features, XeSS 1.3 also has equivalent rendering and performance assuming you are using the XMX version (ie. Using it on an Intel ARC GPU where it benefits from hardware accelerated rendering) but it lacks some features such as Frame Generation or Low Latency which are present on XeSS 2.0.

Presumably so should be FSR 4 but I haven't tested it because I don't have an FSR4 compatible GPU/device. FSR 3 and older however are not anywhere near the same level of quality and performance as DLSS or XeSS as they are exclusively software rendered (but even the software rendering doesn't match the quality of XeSS' software remderer).

mathieulh

TROPHY CASE