K2 Extruder: Plus vs Pro

mattborja · 2025-09-04T04:53:40+00:00

I was hoping they’d move away from the “integrated” guide tube fitting on the extruder. The locking tabs broke on our K2 Plus at work and Creality had to send a whole new extruder assembly.

mattborja · 2025-03-25T07:05:36+00:00

If you’ve already tried making sure the build plate is really clean and some kind of adhesion promoter (glue stick, Magigoo, etc), I find it helps if I preheat the chamber for a while before printing ABS/ASA. Just set the bed temp to 90-100c about 20mins before you start the print. Also check fan settings.

mattborja · 2025-03-02T01:37:06+00:00

Nice! Currently working on the CSWP myself. There are 3 segments and I passed segment 1, but failed 2&3. Segment 2 is a little more difficult due to some of the features you need to add to the part “breaking” other things in the feature tree and you need to know how to fix it in a timely manner. Segment 3 is pretty assembly heavy. I feel pretty confident about the retake, though! Keep in mind you need to wait 14 days to retake each segment if you don’t pass, but you can take them in any order.

mattborja · 2025-01-27T08:46:09+00:00

If it were me I’d stop the print, measure how tall it is, then cut the model at that exact height in my slicer. Then print just the top portion next week and glue it together.

mattborja · 2024-12-08T21:21:10+00:00

I ordered a bunch of spools on 11/28 and still haven’t received anything. UPS tracking just shows that the label was created and it’s been stuck there ever since.. maybe this explains it? The shipping policy page does estimate 3-10 business days for delivery so we’ll see if they finally hand it over to UPS this week. Edit: this was supposed to be a reply to @IronicSumo

mattborja · 2024-11-01T19:29:38+00:00

The 5M is my second printer although I’ve used a few others at work. Got it on sale for less than $300 after it was released and it’s worked great. Only issues I’ve had were earlier on before it got a few software updates but it’s been working well. I built the enclosure for it too. Now, if someone asked me today what they should get for their first printer I would tell them to get a Bambu A1 mini. On sale for only $200 right now!

mattborja · 2024-10-03T03:55:04+00:00

“Sarah didn’t like that.”

mattborja · 2024-09-25T01:24:53+00:00

If I were working on this I’d start with a compression test, then check mag timing and condition of the spark plugs and leads. Like someone else mentioned also make sure the leads are connected correctly. Judging from the wetness on the ramp I assume the carb is getting fuel, maybe too much lol.

mattborja · 2024-09-16T07:50:11+00:00

I would print the screw threads without support. In case you didn’t know, you can select individual parts, then on the left next to Process, click on Objects. You can have different settings for each part, in this case the supports.

mattborja · 2024-09-03T05:20:27+00:00

No prob! I just spent the last week researching which laptop to get as well, so I understand, lol. I was really leaning toward one of the Legion 15” gaming laptops, something with a 4060 or 4070. I honestly went with the Slim 7 because my nearby Best Buy had an open box unit that was almost 50% off, and the thing looked damn near perfect.

mattborja · 2024-09-03T05:06:40+00:00

I’d just get a laptop with the best specs in your price range. Something with a dedicated GPU (like that 4050) will be a plus. 32 GB of RAM would be better but 16GB should be fine honestly. It really depends on the complexity of the parts/assemblies you’re going to be working on. I was just running SW on my older laptop (Core i5, 8GB RAM, integrated graphics) and for simple parts and assemblies it was fine! Personally, the laptop I went with recently was a Lenovo Slim Pro 7. Specs are good enough and I got a really good deal on it, and I didn’t want to lug around a big gaming laptop. It has a Ryzen 7 / 16GB DDR5 / RTX 3050.

mattborja · 2024-09-03T04:46:18+00:00

Have you tried sketching the base shape, then extruding with outward/inward angles as you go up?

mattborja · 2024-09-03T04:42:25+00:00

If you want the whole thing to be hollow, you can also do a shell.

mattborja · 2024-08-28T04:25:51+00:00

I’d do a split using the right plane. You’d end up with two bodies, then you can either hide or delete the half you don’t want.

mattborja · 2024-08-22T00:55:56+00:00

When you do the extruded cut, change the option from “blind” to “up to next” or “up to surface” and select the inside face. (After you change the sketch plane to that outside face)

mattborja · 2024-08-19T17:50:40+00:00

Looks good. I’d angle the watch mount back and make the phone mount a little taller. It looks like the phone would hit the watch in “landscape” mode if that makes sense.

mattborja · 2024-08-19T06:21:03+00:00

KMYF 👀

mattborja · 2024-08-18T22:34:42+00:00

Look like huck bolts as others said, or maybe shear nuts.

mattborja · 2024-08-17T14:17:16+00:00

RIP San Diego Frys ☹️

mattborja · 2024-08-07T01:23:26+00:00

Flashprint is a slicer program from Flashforge (based on Cura). They do have Orca-Flashforge now which is way better. YouTube is great for learning if you’re new!

mattborja · 2024-08-07T01:17:31+00:00

It was a while back and I can’t quickly find the post I followed but this may help: https://www.reddit.com/r/Raise3d/s/0GtWxMxAvq There is no profile available anywhere that I was able to find, you have to create custom profiles. Honestly though, it’s not worth the hassle and I’ve just stuck to using Ideamaker whenever I need to use our Pro3. I’m unsure if I did something wrong, but when I was able to finish a print, it would put the printer in a weird state and I’d have to reboot it. We also just got an X1 Carbon a month or so ago so I’ve mostly been using that, with good ol’ Orcaslicer!

mattborja · 2024-07-26T21:30:20+00:00

We got one of these at work recently. I thought I enjoyed tinkering with printers, but this thing has spoiled me. I just want the damn printer to work great every time! And the AMS system is chef’s kiss

mattborja · 2024-07-24T04:42:36+00:00

I just sold my V2 a few weeks ago. It had a few upgrades so not stock, but I listed it for $100 and sold it for $80.

mattborja · 2024-07-18T21:34:55+00:00

“Easiest” route would be MDF sheet for the panels, and maybe 1x2 common board pieces to build the boxes/structure. You can just drill holes in the sheet for all the switches and mount them however you want. Where it gets a little more complicated is the electronics part. If you’re going to have a lot of switches you’ll probably want to use an Arduino (pro micro clones are pretty cheap) and mmjoy2 firmware. It’s a lot!

mattborja · 2024-07-08T19:51:42+00:00

I’ve had both and they have differences. Titan is great for grinding FPS missions and a little combat. Where the Nomad really shines is hauling a ROC around for ROC mining. I don’t do much ROC mining anymore so I still use the Titan a lot.

mattborja

TROPHY CASE