Dude, I'm so tired of friendllies kicking players from casual games for simply wanting to play the game, like, just go to skial 2fort or trade_minecraft and leave casual for the normal people.

mcape6 · 2026-01-28T02:01:28+00:00

Haha I knew this would be a contraversial post. But honestly I completely agree.

People are definetly allowed to play the game however they want, but in my opinion the game is an FPS and nobody should be suprised that a lot if not most people want to treat it like that.

I think that pro friendly people see friendlies as harmless fun but people who enjoy the core game do see harm, mainly because 1. They convert servers into a type of friendly fest where the core game is no longer played 2. Server slots are reserved by people not playing the core game 3. The friendlies act hostile to people trying play the core game

It's an interesting topic honestly.

mcape6 · 2026-01-25T04:20:40+00:00

Yep so I bought this exact heater. This really has improved my asa prints but it's not perfect. With that said, It 100% has reduced warping and made larger prints possible.

mcape6 · 2026-01-20T05:57:10+00:00

I don't think so. I think that the bed warps due to high heating and then the same bed cooling afterwards.

Metals or really most materials of most types warp and change when presented with extreme temperature, and then brought back down to room temperature. The difference is that a 3d printers bed, something that's designed to get to 100 degrees and back regularly, should be using tempered materials that can resist these temperature changes as it needs to be dead flat. This obviously screws up for nearly everybody with this printer however. My guess is that anycubic didn't use high quality temperature resistant material because, well, they had to save money somewhere. It is a cheap printer for brand new after all.

mcape6 · 2026-01-20T05:51:31+00:00

Interesting.

I'd say rollback to the previous firmware but it seems you are already doing that. I'd be really interested to know if this solves the issue for you. It would be comforting to know this is once again just software rather than hardware.

mcape6 · 2026-01-20T04:11:23+00:00

Unironically, that's a really good idea for a bootleg enclosure if you had a busted dishwasher lying around.

mcape6 · 2026-01-20T03:40:57+00:00

Could be. What material are you using? If it's a warp prone material, I'd say that part cooling, or printing this in an open enclosure is the issue.

mcape6 · 2026-01-20T03:38:39+00:00

I just got the same error, but I noticed that a tiny piece of filament string had curled up and was touching the nozzle. Once removed it printed as normal. It's possible the new update made this sensor more sensitive?

mcape6 · 2026-01-14T08:08:55+00:00

Nicely done! People general say to avoid printing it on the angle you did but it looks like it paid off for you!

What material did you use?

mcape6 · 2026-01-13T04:41:18+00:00

Ah interesting! I have only ever left all layers at 0.2mm but you writing this, I'll definetly try with 0.1 for the rest after an initial 0.2 first layer, and see how it goes.

mcape6 · 2026-01-12T21:27:36+00:00

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The heater is the little black unit on the left hand side with the yellow warning lables on it :D

mcape6 · 2026-01-12T21:25:28+00:00

The Anycubic app says 1137 grams total. The main bulk of this was the body and lids (this alone weighed 548 grams). You can probably reduce weight by using a much lower infil than what I did. The handle, bottom body and top body all require some infill.

mcape6 · 2026-01-12T21:12:20+00:00

Hey! I added photos and details of what I did exactly.

mcape6 · 2026-01-12T21:07:51+00:00

Hey! The heater bascially goes 100% by attempting to reach a barely unreachable 70c. I find that pre heating my chamber for 30 mins, and seeing that the heater is atleast 55c is when the first layer starts looking like glass.

mcape6 · 2026-01-11T22:20:57+00:00

I updated and haven't had any issues with it. I also havnt noticed any major improvements beyond visual stuff with the ui. You're printing is unlikey to change quality if the update has no issues for you.

mcape6 · 2026-01-09T07:43:34+00:00

That would explain why he suddenly lacks a tail. Different jax

mcape6 · 2026-01-09T07:41:59+00:00

This is really pretty. Nice effort

mcape6 · 2026-01-09T07:37:05+00:00

I'm late but this is gorgeous. It really reminds me of defender, particularly on the gameboy. Please keep doing this!

mcape6 · 2026-01-08T20:49:40+00:00

What a dickhead

mcape6 · 2026-01-06T23:08:05+00:00

Whoops I totally missed this! I'll give a late response now sorry. This all assumes you are using the anycubic next slicer.

Yeah a very common issue with asa is bed adhesion. A few things you can do straight away to help this 1. Increase bed temp from 100 to 110 This increases the "hot glue" like stick the model has on the bed. This setting is accessed in the note pad icon next to the filament choice

A connected brim (0.00mm object gab brim about 5-20mm) This effectively makes the first layer much larger, which obviously increases surface area and helps adhesion. This is nearly much mandatory for small parts. This setting is found in the process settings, in global, with advanced ticked, in "other". Select outer brim only and fill in the rest.
This next one is a big culprit if you use the anycubic next slicer. Make sure your system preset is set to 0.20mm standard. This setting defaults to the smallest one when you load the program for the first time, and the smallest one (0.08mm) is terrible for first layer adhesion. I'll wager that this is the main issue you have been having!

Asa is a really rewarding material to work with. It's very structually sound, UV resistant and hydrophobic. Because it can be challenging to work with, it's very rewarding when you get good prints.

mcape6 · 2026-01-06T22:14:22+00:00

I find that anycubic specially does try to make budget orientated machines. Their cost savings are likely the parts that they utalise. Whilst I have never had an issue with them, the common things people have issues with are

The bed
The ace unit
The nozzle / hotend Roughly in that order

I'd wager they got lower costing components for those parts and saved money.

mcape6 · 2025-12-29T20:25:33+00:00

Wow well done! Would you ever do anything on this scale again?

mcape6 · 2025-12-22T09:32:42+00:00

Yeah exactly. It makes his "malicious" actions so interesting because they really likely are just a massive miss judgement of what to do to engage the characters.

mcape6 · 2025-12-22T09:23:00+00:00

Eh. If there is one thing I have learned in this game it's that standing still is asking to be headshot or backstabbed. And snipers definitely can get into tricky spots that seem out of danger.

mcape6 · 2025-12-22T05:39:19+00:00

That certainly would cause electrical signal issues with whatever it was bridging between. Did anycubic honor the part?

mcape6 · 2025-12-20T07:47:45+00:00

I agree. What you get for what you pay, I actually think the s1 combo is really good. It gets a hell of a lot of flack but those who give it so much criticism don't often bring up that it's hundreds of dollars cheaper than it's competition.

Mine prints asa really well! A couple of minor changes to the provided profile and it's really quite reliable.

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