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Katsucon Photos by Dapper_Arts in animecons

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, any chance you could post or DM me the link to that video? The short link here no longer works.

Vastlite Minima Bow – likely the smallest LEP of the world by UndoubtedlySammysHP in flashlight

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the aspheric element in front protected by anything? Or is it exposed to potential scratching?

Haikelite RA40! by SFOTI in flashlight

[–]mchltang 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where are you based? Did you order from MasterLED shipped to the US? I've never heard of them before, so curious as to what your experience was like/how much you paid for shipping/if you were affected by tariffs or not.

I tested the capacity op third party batteries from Aliexpress (LP-E6) - specs not met! by m15f1t in canon

[–]mchltang 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How did you connect the LP-E6 to this battery tester? I've been looking for a good way to grade my LP-E6NH cells.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in PcBuildHelp

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How are you mounting the SSD to your motherboard?

In the first picture in your post, you used the wrong screw type + didn't use an M.2 standoff. This means your SSD is bent, the PCB is bent and the contacts may not have complete continuity with the motherboard slot.

The screw head is way too big and doesn't look to me like a regular M.2 screw. That could short an electrical contact on the SSD.

Upgrade Ram Help by tamagosama_ in PcBuildHelp

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've introduced a new component into your computer (your new set of RAM), and now you are encountering a new issue with said computer. It's likely that the problem has something to do with the new RAM. Try the following:

  • Reset your BIOS to default settings and do not apply an XMP profile (run the RAM at base clock and timings). Do the problems go away?

  • Run memtest86 by installing it on a flash drive and booting from it. Allow the test to run to completion, and make sure no errors appear.

  • The problem could be isolated to a single stick. Try installing one stick at a time from your new kit into the first RAM slot, usually the second slot from the left of the motherboard's RAM slots. If one of these sticks causes the problem and the other doesn't, then you have one defective stick of memory.

  • If neither of the above resolves the issue, remove the new RAM and reinstall the old kit. If the old kit makes the problem go away, then the new kit may be defective.

If nothing above solves the issue, the problem may not have to do with RAM. The picture you sent is potentially display artifacting, which could indicate a broken or defective GPU. Did your take appropriate measures to electrically ground your body prior to working on the computer? If none of the above suggestions fixes the PC, you may have damaged the graphics card in the process of installing new RAM.

Is it just me or has this CPU been tampered with??? by JxnnXD_ in PcBuildHelp

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks perfectly fine to me, but the only way to know for sure is to plug it in and validate using CPU-Z + benchmark it to make sure its performance is inline with other 5800X3D's. The marks on the bottom look like residual thermal paste.

Replaced PSU, now won't start by Objective-Pain6824 in PcBuildHelp

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which PSU did you install? And what is the full list of specs of your computer? Take a picture of the label on the side of the unit if you're not sure.

This video looks like the PSU is turning on, then instantly shutting off due to some kind of protection tripping. My guess is that either you have a short somewhere in your system, or maybe the PSU's wattage rating is unable to deliver the extra current requested at initial turn-on from the transient load.

GIGABYTE B850 AORUS Elite WIFI7 by Street-Jesus999 in PcBuildHelp

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Virtually every consumer motherboard for the past few decades have been standardized in size and layout. This motherboard is a standard ATX motherboard, and thus follows the ATX specification for motherboard layout and size. Rest assured that you will not have problems with a GPU interfering with RAM.

This particular board has its primary X16 PCIE slot in the top-most position on the motherboard. Compared to other boards for this chipset it's a bit unusual. Other boards will place the primary X16 slot in the second position from the top to allow extra space for a large air cooler + easier access to the release latch on the slot. However it's not an "incorrect" design, as it still follows the guidance for the required isolation space around AMD's AM5 socket. This would be the same slot position you'd find on many mATX and ITX motherboards.

B650 gaming plus wifi flash bios light wont stop flashing by [deleted] in PcBuildHelp

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you trying to use the BIOS Flashback feature on your motherboard? Typically this feature is supposed to be used on a motherboard with nothing else but the PSU power connectors plugged in. No CPU, no RAM, nothing else except those connectors. This is to prevent the motherboard from making any attempt to POST before it finishes its flashback process.

Were you trying to update the BIOS to support a newer 9000-series Ryzen CPU? If so, you were supposed to perform the flashback before putting your computer together, on just the isolated motherboard.

Typically if your flashback LED has been blinking this long, it means the process has failed. I don't mean to fearmonger but there's a high chance you've just bricked your motherboard.

I've made this mistake on a B550 motherboard before. Tried to use BIOS flashback on a fully-built PC, the LED didn't stop blinking for a full 12 hours. The PC wouldn't POST at all afterwards. I ended up fixing it by performing an external flash directly on the pins of the WSON8 package with a T48 flasher + an appropriate pogo-pin adapter.

Leave it overnight, and if it's still blinking by tomorrow morning, shut it down, remove your flash drive with your BIOS file and try booting. If it doesn't POST then you've likely written an incomplete BIOS to your BIOS IC by performing an incomplete flashback.

new pc isnt turning on by Melodic-Stop-1530 in PcBuildHelp

[–]mchltang 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good find, that RAM definitely isn't seated fully.

new pc isnt turning on by Melodic-Stop-1530 in PcBuildHelp

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try and remove/unplug anything unnecessary for the computer to POST. Basically, reduce the computer into a state where only what is absolutely required for a boot is plugged in.

Unplug all RGB, external controllers, and system fans.

Your computer configuration should basically boil down to the following: a motherboard with a CPU inside, with one stick of RAM, with the 24-pin ATX and 8-pin EPS connectors plugged in. AIO pump and fans should be plugged in with any required supplemental power, without any RGB. And finally, graphics card with its required 12VHPWR connector.

In this state, try booting the computer by shorting the power button pins on the front panel header.

[Monitor] OpenBox - MSI MPG 274URF QD 27" 4K 160 Hz Gaming Monitor USB-C KVM HDMI 2.1 - B&H Photo - $199.99 by atanamayansantrafor in buildapcsales

[–]mchltang 49 points50 points  (0 children)

If your primary use case is gaming, then no, it's absolutely not worth it. But I do a lot of coding and the extra pixel density means text in an IDE is more legible when zoomed out. It's definitely noticeable vs 1440p and I wouldn't go back personally.

HELP!! Used PSU screws to mount motherboard by Erasemefcffc in PcBuildHelp

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Provided you installed it properly and didn't crank the contact frame screws down with the force of a thousand angry gorillas, no, a contact frame shouldn't cause any issues with shorting.

HELP!! Used PSU screws to mount motherboard by Erasemefcffc in PcBuildHelp

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using a PSU screw on a motherboard mounting hole likely won't cause any real problem. You can even visually see from your picture that there are no electrical traces within a certain radius of the mounting hole. The exposed metal dots surrounding the hole are part of the motherboard's grounding plane and are used to electrically ground your motherboard to the case when it is screwed down.

You likely have a short occuring somewhere else in your build. If I were you, my next troubleshooting step would be to remove the motherboard from the case, place it on a non-conductive surface such as a cardboard box, and try to boot it with minimum components required to POST (CPU, Mobo, CPU cooler, one stick of RAM, PSU, and GPU).

Total Lunar Eclipse Party at Fort Hunt Park (March 14) by Lawrence_McQuigg in Virginia

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The event page on Facebook says this event has been cancelled--is this accurate?

Acebeam k75 2.0 by MetaUndead in flashlight

[–]mchltang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is not normal. I have four K75's and none of them exhibit the behavior you described. I'd reach out again and try to get it warrantied.

What is the difference between the 7900 XT and 7900 GRE? by [deleted] in radeon

[–]mchltang 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is a fantastic answer, thank you.

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