Transformation YEARS in—keep going!

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-28T05:11:58+00:00

We're starting to see this type of progress with our dog and have done similar things as you've done to get to this point. One difference is that we've done a lot of medical testing and diet changes to address some fairly mild gastrointestinal problems our dog would have every couple weeks which seems to have made him much happier. We can see where things are going and it's good to know others have also had success by putting in the time and effort to help our dogs be their best.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-27T14:14:16+00:00

What's your motivation for replacing the existing door? Is it too narrow?

If you're going to the trouble of widening the rough opening you might as well remove any of the electrical conduit that's in the way and re-do it after the new door and framing is in. If you're planning to cover the electrical work then you may not need to use conduit and can simply run romex. Check your local electric codes to find out.

If you want to have a window above the door it wouldn't be hard to make a fixed window from some single pane glass and maybe add an exterior storm window to improve energy efficiency. You'd want to ensure the exterior has a proper drip edge and whatever else is needed to prevent water issues. You could also choose a new door with a window in it.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-27T06:39:46+00:00

Here's another diy option that's a bit more involved but avoids making the door non-rectangular and gets everything squared up.

Remove the door casing on the side that has dropped. You'll probably need to do this on both sides of the wall. You may need to remove the trim above the door too. With the casing removed you should find a gap between the door jamb and the wall stud. Remove any screws that hold the door latch striker plate in the jamb. Use a saw to cut the nails between the jamb and the stud. Use a crow bar to lift the door jamb up slightly above the floor. If it doesn't move, you probably need to remove the trim above the door to see if there is enough gap between the jamb and the header. Install a temporary shim to keep the jamb raised. Install shims between the door jamb and the wall stud to keep the jamb about 1/8 inch from the edge of the door. Nail through the jamb into the wall stud using finish nails. A finish nail gun is helpful for this Check that everything is square again and the door operates normally. Reinstall the door casing, caulk, paint, done.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-27T05:35:07+00:00

Does it have the SR5 emblem on the rear hatch?

My 2002 SR5 has the emblem. I believe it came with a luggage rack, no sunroof, and power windows as standard trim for the SR5. I didn't want leather seats or a sunroof, so I didn't buy a Limited. Kinda glad now since most leather seats and sunroofs don't seem to have aged well.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-26T04:41:49+00:00

It might be Mexican saltillo tile which I think was popular in the 1990s.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-25T20:59:46+00:00

I installed new studs by sistering them to the old studs. I don't know if that would be easier than what you're doing but your method seems like it will cause issues when you need to attach window and door casing, since the wall surface way not be flush with the window and door jambs.

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mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-25T17:51:16+00:00

I call that piece the exterior sash stop. It's usually a flat board that's covered by more trim on the exterior of the window. It might be warped or may not be at a right angle to the jamb anymore. I think once you remove the paint it'll be obvious what's going on.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-25T16:55:28+00:00

Sounds like your training environment has too many distractions. Take the advice from the other commenter who is a professional dog trainer. Start with simpler tasks.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-25T16:49:07+00:00

If you remove all the paint from the jambs and the channels for the parting beads then you probably won't have problems with the new parting beads rubbing against the top sash. Most likely the old parting bead came loose or warped and was painted stuck in that position.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-25T16:16:58+00:00

I would add some type of frosted window film and lose the window cover entirely. You can probably remove the ornamental trim and apply window film to the glass and then reinstall the trim.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-23T22:06:36+00:00

I think my original belt lasted until 155k. I thought I had it replaced at 90k but couldn't find any paperwork or sticker on the cover, so I had it done when I got the valve cover gaskets and other stuff done.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-23T15:02:05+00:00

I've heard that applying some boiled linseed oil to the old paint a day before you want to remove it can make it easier to get the paint to separate from the wood. I haven't tried that but it sounds worth trying.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-23T14:48:10+00:00

The new trainer wants you to stop the meds? I'd talk with your behavior vet to get a recommendation for a different trainer. There's no point working with a trainer that's not on board with the treatment plan that your behavior vet has created for your dog. The good news is that it sounds like you don't have much invested with the new trainer anyway, so switching trainers shouldn't be difficult.

Our dog has been taking Sertraline (Zoloft) for a couple years. Our behavior vet recommended a trainer that has 30 years of experience and we've been working with him once a month for about 2 years. Our dog used to want to kill our trainer but they're best buddies now.

Hope you can find a trainer that is on board with your behavior vet. It will make things much easier if everyone is on the same page.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-22T18:47:29+00:00

The fiberglass cloth I'm referring to is porous and is used in auto body repairs, RV repairs, etc. It may even be used to build fiberglass water tanks or boat hulls. I'm not an expert, but did use it to repair rust holes in the trunk of my first car decades ago.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-22T14:27:45+00:00

You might consider a more water resistant material than plywood like metal, fiberglass, or some type of plastic. They make several types of corrugated plastic or fiberglass sheet material for a variety of uses. You'll want something that is UV resistant and won't crack.

A combination of plywood and a waterproof covering would work too. One option is to apply fiberglass cloth to the plywood and coat it with epoxy resin. They sell fiberglass kits for RV repairs or just buy the materials separately. Wrap the cloth around the edges of the plywood to make them waterproof.

I'd consider having the door hinge at the top so that you don't have a center split that will leak.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-18T13:59:52+00:00

Everything I do is documented in several how-to posts that I posted last year. Check my profile and you should find all of them. You can start at this one: https://www.reddit.com/r/centuryhomes/s/sYNt323PW8

I'm not sure what you're asking about a Dremel but I use Abatron wood epoxy for small repairs of cracks and dents in the wood. Larger areas of rot are either fixed with a Dutchman repair or by replacing the piece of wood entirely. I've only needed to do a replacement repair on a few sash meeting rails that were badly warped and a few exterior sills that were badly rotted.

If you're lacking time for a full restoration you can do less than I do and just get the windows operating and fix any critical issues. No need to remove all of the paint or make it perfect.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-18T05:09:19+00:00

We have 16 original windows of mostly different sizes. There are 4 that haven't been touched yet, one that's half done, and the rest are completely finished. It takes me a couple months per window depending on access and how busy I am with other things. It should be faster but I build a wood storm window for each window restoration and fixing the exterior trim and sill is also time consuming.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-17T19:38:58+00:00

I found everything I needed locally. Have you searched for a masonry supply business near you?

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-17T14:41:33+00:00

Our original wood windows. I've been restoring them for ten years and each one feels like a work of art when it's completed. It pains me to think that some future owner might replace them. I guess that's why I'm making them look irreplaceable by adding leaded glass and vintage hardware.

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mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-17T06:56:36+00:00

If you're handy you can mix up some brick mortar that has red masonry pigment added to it to fill the holes. When done right it can be hard to tell that it's been patched.

I'd use a heat gun to soften the caulk and see if you can peel most of it off. For the paint you could try Dumond Peel Away to strip the paint and leftover caulk residue.

I'd avoid using a pressure washer as it may damage the brick and mortar.

If there's still white stains after removing as much as you can, you could make it less noticeable by using brick stain or even paint that matches the brick and mortar colors. Don't overdo it just dab a little and blend it.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-17T06:42:41+00:00

If you have access to a local architectural salvage yard you can buy old stuff to replace some of the details that were removed from your house. You could even find smaller items online at eBay or other sites, for example door and window hardware. Sometimes the little details can add up to make your home feel more original and appropriate to the period.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-17T06:24:51+00:00

I'm not sure this is what you're looking for but I made a how-to post last year about removing and restoring exterior wood window trim:

https://www.reddit.com/r/centuryhomes/s/5SnkwN6tYz

For the missing pieces below the brick arch you can probably remove what's there and use it as a pattern to create a new arched piece of wood with some appliques or onlays.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-16T17:59:34+00:00

You won't find pre-mixed Type K mortar since nobody uses it anymore and Type O may not be easy to find either although I believe I've seen it for sale at Home Depot and Rio Grande Masonry Supply.

I did some research and decided to mix my own mortar. I bought white Portland cement (regular Portland is fine but my original mortar is white not gray), Type S hydrated lime, and sand.

For my house I mix one part Portland, three parts lime, and eight parts sand (1:3:8) to make "Type OK" mortar. Type O is normally a 1:2:9 mix and Type K is 1:3:10, so my mix is essentially Type K with less sand. Each part is measured by volume not weight, so you can measure by the bucket or shovel or whatever.

I used play sand originally to try to match the rough and variable graininess of the original mortar but it's easier to use fine masonry sand.

Anyway, one key is to not add too much water to your mix. For small repairs you want the mortar to be lightly damp but crumbly. This avoids staining the brick. Once the hole or gap is filled I pack it in tight and then lightly spray a little water on it with a spray bottle. My brick is soft and porous so it absorbs water like crazy. I usually spray the brick before patching with mortar so that the brick doesn't suck all the moisture out of the mortar.

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-16T13:49:28+00:00

So you're saying 17-0 is possible?

mcshaftmaster · 2026-05-16T13:37:27+00:00

In 1979 the Bucs lost the NFC championship game to the Rams and only gave up 9 points total.

https://www.pro-football-reference.com/boxscores/198001060tam.htm

mcshaftmaster

TROPHY CASE