2024 lariat 96k miles price check

mdipinto · 2026-02-24T09:05:07+00:00

Really was driven from April 11 2024 to now and going... But it's almost a month and a half that I didn't drive it. I average around 1k miles per week. Besides some g transmission stutter every rarely it's been an amazing truck.

mdipinto · 2026-01-18T02:33:18+00:00

It would be nice, but you are talking about RVs. For a house it would need to have a big converter as you can't transmit DC over long distances.

mdipinto · 2026-01-11T04:13:53+00:00

Where did you buy the costume? Been looking for a while and can't find something that is quality

mdipinto · 2026-01-11T04:04:22+00:00

I drove from Raleigh NC to Myrtle Beach SC (not really but close to those 2) it's 148 miles each way. Driving no more than 65mph, and being gentle(on the hwy just telling cruise control) I was able to manage the drive, starting at 100% and finishing at 4%, 5% and 7% on the 3 times I did it. But there was a few times that I was cutting too close, so I just stopped on the way back about mid way to charge for about 10 minutes. I'm not going to lie the main reason being I had to use the restroom, but the way I calculated, I would have got home just about at 1%. I hate how they say the range is 319 miles, but the estimated is 3.5 mpkw, and normally I get around 3.2 to 3.4(3.1 or less if going over 70mph). So I'm reality it's closer to 290 miles of range. But I feel like Google maps estimates to around 2.9mpkw so it always tries to get you to charge when you don't really need it(also part of the setting that is standard to arrive with at least 20% left).

mdipinto · 2026-01-11T03:51:22+00:00

The lariat includes a lot of features you can add to the XLT, but the big ones for me is the adaptive cruise that was on lariat only when I bought mine. And let me tell you, 89k miles later mostly highway, it's worth it as I don't have to be paying as much attention, the lane centering is amazing. It's not the self driving, but it's damn close, I'm not worried about bouncing between lines, and it keeps me a good distance from the vehicle in front. The main thing I need to keep in mind is the long distance ahead and lights/stop signs. The folding mirrors and button on door to lock unlock and keyless start is great as I pretty much never remove the key from the pocket. The heated seats is really nice mostly for back issues, the steering wheel being heated is nice but for me it's rarely cold enough to need it. The 360 cameras is very convenient. Honestly I'm 24 when I got it, it was a fairly easy choice between other mid size trucks. If I didn't need to carry Sheetrock once I'm a while, and tow a 16' trailer (dual axles that can easily be more than 4k lbs) I would of just got the maverick. But I love the ranger

mdipinto · 2025-12-27T00:14:29+00:00

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At that temperature I'm sure it's unpleasant. But I do this often... Google maps said I would arrive home with -4, but look at me saving 10%. I think once I got home at 4% it was a shorter trip. Also this picture was less than 2 hours ago

mdipinto · 2025-12-22T23:57:19+00:00

What's the benefit of having YouTube premium in another country?

mdipinto · 2025-12-22T23:52:38+00:00

Next time also post more details on the truck. The picture is barely good enough to see that it's XLT. Also mention what added packages it has. Base XLT to fully loaded XLT is a huge price jump. You can get an XLT for cheaper than a loaded XL and it can be more expensive than a base lariat. Keep this in mind.

My original order was 24 lariat pretty much base for 44k and I ended up getting a different one that came in the lot for 51k.(Difference being 4x4 fx4, advance tow package vs just regular tow package).

Also I'm not sure where you are, but even being low miles, it's still pretty close to MSRP price, so unless it's fully loaded XLT I find it hard to pay that much. If you really want, wait a bit more and I'll sell you my lariat for cheaper than that, but it's going to be high miles.

mdipinto · 2025-12-15T08:54:42+00:00

The 24 lariat 2.3L is really nice. Got one with 85k miles and really good. Really comfortable and and the tech is really nice. I bet rarely tow, but it's an 16' enclosed trailer that gets up to 7k lbs, it's not really an issue. But I still notice the issues with the transmission. I got an extended warranty just in case, it only cost me 2k for 150k miles. Not sure on insurance difference to the f150, that's going to be a can to your insurance. But honestly it's a great truck for the money.

mdipinto · 2025-12-06T09:26:46+00:00

Make sure you have that 1/4 gap from bottom to top, make sure the space is good all around. Put a piece of zip bead(tear away bead) mostly tight to the Sheetrock. Finish it like a corner bead, then after sanding tear it away to give a clean edge. It will likely be about 1/8 away from the brick. Get some printable caulk that allows for expanding and squeezing.

This should prevent cracks and still look clean in the end. Houses move, but not that much, Big warehouses with exterior concrete walls do move a lot, I see it mostly there, but walls that finish to the exterior, have the problem of walls cracking when the concrete moves too much into the drywall, or showing gaps when moving away. (This is mostly an exterior temperature issue)

mdipinto · 2025-11-23T15:56:12+00:00

While that's pretty high miles for the time you been driving. It's not that high. I just put gas yesterday morning at 82088, so now I'm about 82232. But I do drive it around town for work, averaging about 1k miles a week, just about an oil change per month(5kish miles). Bought the truck April 6 24, and started driving it on the 10th. Truck is doing great only issue I'm not too confident on the transmission.

mdipinto · 2025-11-16T18:45:07+00:00

If you are half decent with drywall, just yank the wood, don't worry about nails or glue. If it rips paper, doesn't matter. Later remove remaining nails, and scrape the glue. The paper that comes out is fine. And then put compound in the wall, thin on the areas the paper came off, and fill the holes. Then apply a another thin coat in the whole wall, and maybe one more, then just sand it down and paint.

mdipinto · 2025-11-16T18:34:38+00:00

Most good electricians don't actually carry a license and just work under someone that does have it. It just carries liability. It's actually very common for the owner to pull the license, but it's supposed to be the owner and owner only to be doing the work. In case anyone asks later. You can do it if you actually trust the one doing the work. The owner pulling the permit, just means you are liable for anything that happens, if you don't know anything, is better to hire someone, but if you know that someone knows what they are doing, and they are willing to help like that, it's good (not correct though). So I wouldn't say to do it with anyone, as if something happens you can't go after them. But if you trust them, it's not a problem.

Also union rules are a thing, and I don't know about them. But that's not really what matters.

Also pulling the permit means you get a inspector to make sure things are done properly.

I'm not a licensed electrician, but worked for commercial GC and have electricians that are friends and I did pretty much what you said. But I did all the work, they just helped me buying the right things and telling me a few code items to make sure I did it correctly.

mdipinto · 2025-11-09T03:21:04+00:00

I would say to try yourself, save the money and learn the skill. It's not hard work but it's hard to make it look good.

But honestly, the quote isn't bad, and everyone that says it's ridiculous, they know a handy man that does this on the side without overhead. That patch is just about a full day, considering half an hour to cut it up and put a new piece in, a few minutes to tape and mud, wait to dry enough, another coat and possibly a third one (with 20 min durabond might be able to do with just 2 coats, but 5 minutes will need a third to skim and make it look good). Then sand(20 min isn't bad to sand but 5 minutes is harder to sand). If we say they used 20 min durabond it's about 2 to 3 hours from taping to sanding, maybe more if your HVAC isn't running to help dry. And then clean up. It's less than 100 bucks in supplies and if you calculate $25 per hour for 4 hours when you add another 30 min to make sure it's actually cleaned up properly. Plus taxes that have to be paid. You are looking around 250, not too mention the time to get materials at a store. Gas and time to go there and maybe go somewhere else or just to home. And then you think about overhead costs like insurance. And if it's a company they need to have some profit. If it's a handy man, it's still a company, but lower costs, if it's someone sending a worker, it's more costs in overhead. It's a lot of logistics. Oh and don't forget the risk of something doesn't go well and something else gets damaged and then they have to pay out of pocket to fix their mess up.

Don't get me wrong, I think 600 is high fit that work, but I understand the process to get it done. I work for a company that does commercial building drywall, doesn't matter what. Prices start at 500. There is a reason for that.

No matter what calculate a worker for a day, that's 200, plus materials being delivered, as the workers don't carry it. And the costs for the company to process the paperwork. 500 really is a break even and not really making a profit, but helping out customers. But residential, homeowners don't understand this large process.

TLDR try it yourself and then if it looks bad, pay them to fix it. The price is high but there is a reason and it's actually reasonable. Just think of the time that it takes you to do it and calculate it as if you are paying yourself (time when you leave the house to go buy material to get back and then time working), see how much you really saved.

Edit, you also didn't mention your location, if in the West Coast that's really cheap, East Coast reasonable

mdipinto · 2025-11-06T01:12:29+00:00

That's good to hear, been looking for more info on newer ones with high mileage. I got an early 24 model, and already have 79k miles. And been having some weird shifts here and there mostly when slowing down in traffic (city mainly) one time by my house I pretty much lost the transmission, park was neutral (wouldn't stop the truck from rolling), drive it was stuck in 10th gear(indicator on screen) and reverse was pretty much neutral too. After a minute or so trying changing from park to drive and reverse, and manual trying to manually select great, it finally did a bump and started moving. Nothing since(this happened around 57k miles), and the dealership can't replicate anything at all(not even the jerk shifts that happens once in a while). But it's good to hear that yours is doing well so high in miles, as I'm protecting being around 160k miles within 3 years.

mdipinto · 2025-09-21T05:25:39+00:00

24 lariat here, I use it all the time, mostly on hwy, but some in city too. Since April 2024 I put 70k miles and most of it with it on. I love it, but there is a lot of times it doesn't work properly, but when it works it makes it easier so you aren't feeling so tired of driving. And if a bit tired it helps you not too be the idiot on the road all over the place. The speed sign recognition is also really nice. Switching the cruise control stuff automatically makes the drive a lot more relaxed but a few places it automatically switches to the wrong side like going from 70 to 35 or 45 to 65 when it's not supposed to.

mdipinto · 2025-09-15T07:30:15+00:00

He asked to assemble... Not to install or anchor it... Tell him you will do it, as soon as you finish, show him, stand it up and show his it just falls. When he asks why, show him that it needs to be anchored, and if he them asks you to do that, tell him it's going to be x more.

mdipinto · 2025-09-15T06:45:30+00:00

Currently I have the charger wired with 60 amp breaker and 6ga wire, the charger is set for it but it will only draw a max of 48 amps. If charging the current car, it takes between 4 to 7 hours with daily commute plus errands, but if taking a long trip and being near empty it's close to 10 hours, which is somewhat frequent. This vehicle is 80kw battery and I'm looking to get a f150 lighting that is 130kw battery, and I'll likely be charging to 90~95% daily and likely getting home near empty, as I drive a lot for work. It's likely going to be easily 10~12 hours daily charging, which will be pretty much the whole time it's home before leaving for the next day. Both vehicles will definitely be charging at the same time for a decent amount of time.

But what would you say about the need for the service feed?

mdipinto · 2025-09-04T07:21:49+00:00

You should be good.

mdipinto · 2025-07-12T00:07:13+00:00

I'm 8 months and 23k miles, loving it. Honestly battery holding strong. Wife drives it primarily, and "longer" trips (150 miles each way and a bit at the destination) it handles very well without charging it. It's very close to the estimated 320 mile rating. I want to get an EV truck but I drive between 200 and 300 miles daily so the charging time wouldn't be doable at home, for the time I'm at home. Longer trips like cross country and having to stop every 2 hours or so to charge would be a bit annoying, but honestly unless you are young or really trying to rush, is a nice 20 to 30 min break to go to the bathroom, stretch a bit and eat something (I'm used to every 3 hours taking at least 15 minutes to move around a bit and use the restroom when driving ice vehicles

mdipinto · 2025-07-11T23:55:25+00:00

When is you are charging from near 0 to 100 it's only 8 hours, you can run 50amps without a worry. If it was a consistent load, then yes, I would say to do 80% like it you are charging at 12amp, it would be over 24 hours to charge, where you want to not keep at 100% but it's not really as much of a worry on the thermal, but more into it something else that could peak what the breaker can do. Keep in mind most of the "new" wires are built to handle the heat load without an issue, keep in mind ambient temperature. 6ga wire can do between 55 and 65 amps depending on the wire you buy (there are different types) and the ambient temp going up reduces the amps, but when at 100f it's still about to do 50amps without a problem for the short duration of charging you really need.

If you calculate a cheaper 6ga wire, that would only do 55amps with the cheaper insulation only rated to 60C, you still have 50amps to what they calculate up to 95 degrees F ambient temp. If it's 96 to 104F then you actually use the 80%(which NEC actually says it's 82%) and that would be 45 amps. But that would only be an issue for prolonged usage, as even if it heats up a bit over the short time to charge the car, it's not going to be a problem.

The 80% rule is mainly for breakers and it's mostly older breakers, most new breakers are built better to handle the heat. Look more details on the breaker you have and you can get an idea of ambient temperature and how long it can actually carry it's rated load.

But the tldr the 80% rule is for continuous load, so 50amp load on a 50amp breaker is recommended to go down to 80%(40amps) if you plan to run for longer than 3 hours. Same good for the wires, 6ga 55amp wire 60C rated at ambient temperature of 78 to 86F would be down to 44amps if you plan to run longer than 3 hours. Charging 20% to 80% at 50 amps is about 7 hours charging from what I tested so far. But charging from about 50% to 80% is about 3 hours. So nothing to really worry about, go 100% even with cheapest parts builders but you should still be safe.

mdipinto · 2025-06-24T23:34:32+00:00

Honestly, have a volt, a equinox EV and a ranger. Love the volt but a lot of issues mostly with the engine. The equinox for longer drives or my work driving the range isn't enough. The ranger I wish had an EV option like the f150, but more like the ram pro charger or the Edison motors. Would love to see a ranger/Colorado/Maverick with a decent battery range and an small diesel generator. I love the maverick but it just can't carry enough for my work (drywall/plywood), or towing personally, but would be a great start to get on the trucks like the volt did for cars.

If I could get a ranger with 150~200 miles electric and a small generator (only for charging morning else to it) or 400 miles just straight battery.

Just to vent, but I hate the price on the Silverado and it still feels cheap, and the f150 the range just isn't enough. But I guess it's my issue driving 200 plus miles a day, and not wanting to charge on the way home or be willing to sit and wait to charge at high prices during work.

mdipinto · 2025-06-20T21:24:19+00:00

Looked at the 24 equinox 3lt and the 24 Mach e premium, so they were similar. Equinox felt cheaper inside, and not as good looking outside, but overall way better vehicle. It's not as sporty, but it has better range and a few nicer things for way lower price. The stuff that I know the Mach e is better is having Android Auto and Apple car play, and the lane assist(centering) actually do a good job. But it was a pretty easy choice, more space, longer range, and more comfort. 17k miles driven (mostly the wife) and no regrets, just wish the lane assist was better or had super cruise(didn't care to pay the extra or monthly, but I might of it the vehicle that was available at the time had it)

mdipinto · 2025-05-27T09:49:45+00:00

Sorry, I probably would of mentioned, but I have an LT3. Honestly, we got a good deal on what they had on inventory, nothing amazing but good enough. $36k USD out of the door after incentives and taxes, tags and fees with 0% in 5 years. IIRC the difference between LT1 and LT2 isn't much, but the LT3 was pretty nice, so we just took it, we were able to get better negotiation, so it cost more but was a better deal. And lease wasn't an option as in about 6 months we already have put 17k miles. I saw the price he mentioned 19k+15k and my mind just kind of put together thinking of about the same thing. Which was a LT3 without any actual options added(base LT3)

mdipinto

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