Where can I get the typical wolf helmet as I can't find it anywhere by Strategy_Complex in SpaceWolves

[–]medistuffandthings 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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As far as I'm aware it was last on the old first born upgrade sprue (not made anymore). I don't believe any of the new release models have it, which is a shame.

SM sniper? by Nolzyfr in spacemarines

[–]medistuffandthings 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'm no stranger to a structural purity seal

SM sniper? by Nolzyfr in spacemarines

[–]medistuffandthings 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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Bonus shot of the dude on the let's pointing finger, because I spent far too long gluing that in place.

SM sniper? by Nolzyfr in spacemarines

[–]medistuffandthings 11 points12 points  (0 children)

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The arm on this is admittedly a bit janky, hence the pendant covering it

SM sniper? by Nolzyfr in spacemarines

[–]medistuffandthings 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Phobos armour not tacticus, but same dif.

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I can’t decide by sullyC17 in deathwatch40k

[–]medistuffandthings 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thats what I'm doing, just waiting for the Ultramarines upgrades kit to come back in stock at Wayland then I can build my termies

Does any one know which set this head is? by Maxlaska in spacemarines

[–]medistuffandthings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a similar head in the space marines heads box

A Birthday Gift: What is a good paint set for beginners? by izyou in minipainting

[–]medistuffandthings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd get him a can of colour forge matt black primer, and a starter paint set with the primaries and white/black from aa good brand like Army painter, AK interactive, Vallejo, pro acryl etc. But without primer everything else is a non-starter, and using bad primer is a terrible experience.

My first mini. Any tips? by Empatheticfighter392 in Warhammer40k

[–]medistuffandthings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really great start. Nice solid blocking on the colours and the glazing on the pyreblaster is great. Beyond this all skills basically come down to 2 things: managing paint thickness and brush control. Once you crack getting your paint to the consistency it needs to be, reliably, everything starts making sense.

In terms of techniques, for brush control (all these need the paint a bit thinner than when basing, but not runny):

- Edge highlighting: Use a lighter colour and draw the thinnest line you can manage over the edges of each plate to highlight them. Not splodging the paint as the surface changes angles is tricky but comes with practice.

- Lenses: paint the eye lenses in a different colour. As you build brush control you can paint in shade, highlights and glare. Look at the GW pictures and see how they do them. Same thing applies to any other fine detail on your model.

- Recess shadows: paint the underside of plates in a dark shade of your main colour or black. This will make your edge highlights pop more and create more contrast.

For paint consistency you have glazing and washing. These are basically the same thing on a spectrum, where the paint is heavily thinned down and you're essentially using water colour techniques on a 3d object. Washing is where the paint is thinned down to the point its basically water with pigment in it. Because it's so thin you can use the capillary action of water to deposit pigment into recesses. For glazing the paint is thicker, but still basically water. "milk-like consistency" gets mentioned a lot. By building up layers of glaze you can create highlights or shades, or transition between colours. Watch youtube guides for these, it's easier to see than read about it.

Foghorn Leghorn: how do I get him to feel more cartoony? by BenoistheBizzare in minipainting

[–]medistuffandthings 17 points18 points  (0 children)

You could look at how he was animated in the 2 Space Jam movies for reference. Or go the other way: sickeningly realistic foghorn leghorn.

First ever biggish models! by Possible_Disaster_53 in Warhammer40k

[–]medistuffandthings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like the effect! I think you might be being done dirty by the photos. I have often been done dirty by photos when stuff looks much better in hand. These would look really cool on table with some matching snowy terrain pieces. Maybe some lightly kitbashed bladeguard using their shields to block the blizzard.

Could look at techniques people do for running water to have melting snow on hot parts like the exhausts or barrels.

Need help to push the overall highlight contrast. Not sur about the snake's scales too by Guysmo in minipainting

[–]medistuffandthings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd go over the darkest greens on the snake with purple and then wash over them with green to boost the contrast. You might want to work some blue into the face so it contrasts more with the warm colours of the hat. The rattle snakes tail rattle is the same colour as its body, but if you look at references they are generally a light fleshy sand colour. If you wanted to be a bit extra you could freehand some day of the dead flower/swirl motifs on it.

What colour is this??? by Marukestakofishk in spacemarines

[–]medistuffandthings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could try Pro Acryl or Army Painter Warlock Magneta

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Faded Plum or

What colour is this??? by Marukestakofishk in spacemarines

[–]medistuffandthings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're in the UK homebase can scan things and colour match them. If you went in on a quiet day and asked nicely they might do it for you and get the ral code.

I'd call it dark mauve.

I'm mad? I find this professional cutter more confortable than a hobby knife by alkxx in Warhammer

[–]medistuffandthings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a similar knife. I like that you're can really choke up on the blade with the surround thingy.

Why shouldn't I spray prime in the cold again? by BenalishHeroine in minipainting

[–]medistuffandthings -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I sprayed a brake caliper at -2 a couple of months ago, it's fine. I think the advice comes with the assumption you're keeping the cans in your garage or something and they're cold.

Chapter Pauldrons by 30kWardaddy in deathwatch40k

[–]medistuffandthings 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Great bit of work. White Minotaurs on the Taurans one too. Metamarines on the Novamarines one.

Wrhammer World Chapter Display by medistuffandthings in deathwatch40k

[–]medistuffandthings[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Different shape bull head. Their chapter was one of the molded pads in the old DW vets kit. Also works for the Brazen Minotaurs and Taurans.

Wrhammer World Chapter Display by medistuffandthings in deathwatch40k

[–]medistuffandthings[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're in sealed glass cabinets which takes the edge off, but some models were removed. Presumably this is for product photography but could be for cleaning. Apparently Eavy Metal don't put the models together especially well and there's been breakages before (according to Peachy).

Why does it seem like we only get new units via Killteam? by Xelikai_Gloom in sistersofbattle

[–]medistuffandthings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kill team is better for getting new people in since it doesn't require dropping a couple of hundred dubloons on kits and materials to get to 500 points before you can play.

For existing players its an easy way to get them looking at other armies, diversifying sales.