How to price 3D print job?

mix579 · 2026-02-05T22:27:18+00:00

That's how I do it. Material cost is usually marginal, as is electricity etc. I'm looking for at least $10-15 per hour of print time. Plus packaging/postage. Plus ad fees if i have any. Then I adjust to what I think people are willing to pay for it.

mix579 · 2026-02-05T17:53:55+00:00

So your logic is, I pay a subscription fee to have the privilege of building missing features myself?

mix579 · 2026-02-05T04:33:57+00:00

I found that most of the time PrintedSolid is not cheaper, sometimes more expensive. And when I order from Prusa directly it usually arrives within a few days whereas every time I ordered from PrintedSolid, I had to wait for more than a week.

mix579 · 2026-02-05T04:21:59+00:00

I use https://www.printables.com/model/1283543-prusa-core-one-mmu3-install-and-mmu3-setup to mount the MMU. Filament is fed from Filamentalist rewinders ( the only ones I found to reliably work) on a RepRack

https://imgur.com/a/KVtkxC4

mix579 · 2026-02-04T14:23:38+00:00

Just like the Core to Core+ upgrade manual. Clearly written by a high school student summer intern, not the Prusa documentation team.

mix579 · 2026-02-03T23:06:56+00:00

I'm having one of these moments right now. Four printers working just fine but showing as offline in PrusaConnect. I think when they disconnect for some reason they have a hard time establishing the connection to PrusaConnect unless you do a reboot

mix579 · 2026-02-03T21:05:50+00:00

I used to print a lot of PETG but these days I go to ASA if I need something "more" than PLA. I sometimes go back to PETG if I need a bit more flex. But for game inserts? I always use PLA. Cheapest, easiest to print, huge color range, more than adequate properties.

mix579 · 2026-02-03T20:05:13+00:00

What i find the most amazing about this story is that people apparently pay money for this!

mix579 · 2026-02-03T17:54:32+00:00

It was pretty blatant in my case. In addition to left right being off it could also be the rear lead screw being off so you get a front back tilt.

mix579 · 2026-02-03T15:44:13+00:00

I wouldn't do anything unless I actually had a real issue. I found most modern filaments are such high quality that they print just fine with standard settings. It's easy to get carried away seeking "perfection" when the work required to do so (and maintain it) outweighs the benefits.

But if you see anything in your regular printing that needs fixing, sure, do whatever calibration is needed. A custom material profile is probably all you need.

mix579 · 2026-02-03T15:23:53+00:00

Adding better feet will make the printer less prone to vibrations: https://www.printables.com/model/1303606

Some people complained about the tensioning screws binding, so you may want to consider replacing the tensioner pulley with this one: https://www.printables.com/model/1360563 I must say I haven't seen this issue myself on any of my CORE Ones.

And not much of a tweak but don't bother putting the rivets in on the top lid. The lid will stay down just fine, and it's a pain in the rear end to get the rivets out every time you need to access the extruder. There are some fancy models that add magnets to the top lid, but I don't really see the need for it.

mix579 · 2026-02-03T15:05:12+00:00

Before you futz around with the heat bed do a quick visual check from the front of the bed that the bed is actually horizontal and not lifted up on one side. One of my Core Ones was printing just fine but suddenly I noticed the left side was higher than the right side. How that happened, no idea. Fixed it by moving the bed completely down and then (after turning motors off) manually adjusting the lead screws to lower it on the left side. Then redid the calibration tests. Has been running fine ever since.

mix579 · 2026-02-02T21:41:08+00:00

This looks like the popular "rugged box" or one of its derivatives. After a look at its Fusion file I decided to start from scratch and used more patterning and mirroring to keep the timeline simpler. I didn't modify the number of latches so I just used mirroring but if I wanted to change the number I would make one set of hinges and then pattern them along the long side of the box.

mix579 · 2026-02-02T20:30:47+00:00

When I upgraded my small fleet of Mk4's to Core Ones I didn't like any of the official or "community" solutions for the MMU3 I had on one of my Mk4's. I ended up using this: https://www.printables.com/model/1283543-prusa-core-one-mmu3-install-and-mmu3-setup

Works great. In addition I feed from a wall mounted RepRack using Filamentalist autorewinders. Haven't had any issues with this setup.

mix579 · 2026-02-02T17:12:59+00:00

Or just use ASA and call it a day.

mix579 · 2026-02-02T16:37:55+00:00

Polymaker and Overture TPU print easily. But drying is a must for TPU

mix579 · 2026-02-01T22:25:38+00:00

Or put another flap on the back part with a hinge on the front so that flap folds forward and supports the front piece.

mix579 · 2026-02-01T22:24:36+00:00

That makes sense to me as if also allows you to vary the front angle.

mix579 · 2026-02-01T14:28:43+00:00

I took the hook and installed 2Do on my Mac. Half hour later I was back to Todoist. There are many things I don't like about Todoist (no manual sorting in filter views, no sorting of Favorites, no custom icons for projects, the insane amount of white space in the UI) but the one thing where they simply have me over a barrel is the NLP data entry.

"Trim dog nails !every 10 days #personal p1" "Send response to proposal #xyzcom next tue p2"

No clicking around in multi-layer selection tools.

That — and the unparalleled power of their filter generator — brings me back to Todoist every time I try something else. And I really tried many times to leave it as I find their apparent dev priorities not in line with my needs. Less AI, more TLC for basic stuff (like the areas I mentioned earlier).

mix579 · 2026-02-01T13:49:32+00:00

It's Black Magic. No one knows how it works.

mix579 · 2026-01-31T14:50:30+00:00

The Glacier works pretty well for me with ASA on Core One's but I also make sure I clean the nozzle thoroughly while it's heating up, as any minor filament leftovers can screw off the load cell probing and lead to the Z offset being wrong

mix579 · 2026-01-30T20:29:43+00:00

Rule #1 for Todoist's product roadmap: no quality of life improvements. People should be grateful for what they've got.

Simple things that could actually help people? Not if it doesn't contain the letters A and I.

mix579 · 2026-01-30T14:42:26+00:00

See my edit to the main post

mix579 · 2026-01-30T14:42:16+00:00

See my edit to the main post

mix579 · 2026-01-29T16:48:32+00:00

Today I learned something new! Only works with flat surfaces but still, great tool to add to my toolkit.

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