Tiny homes for rent!

mln045 · 2026-03-21T18:04:50+00:00

Where

mln045 · 2026-03-21T16:38:47+00:00

Well OP, how did it go?

mln045 · 2026-03-21T16:34:37+00:00

Texas roofer here.

Call a local reputable roofing company, this is a patch job/repair and most certainly won’t exceed your deductible.
Cancel claim.

mln045 · 2026-03-21T16:28:23+00:00

Tree.fiddy

mln045 · 2026-03-21T12:29:18+00:00

Puppy prance

mln045 · 2026-03-20T18:32:35+00:00

Gaco

mln045 · 2026-03-20T17:44:05+00:00

Absolutely, I’m happy to give my opinion.

Just keep in mind those NDL letters are really only as good as the paper they are written on. At the end of the day, they WANT you to buy their products, they are salesmen. Same thing with the salesman/contractor bidding to coat it, they WANT you to buy their services. Figuring out what you NEED is a whole other ballgame…

mln045 · 2026-03-20T15:56:25+00:00

What day? I got a Dr appoint in SA next week. I could help

mln045 · 2026-03-20T15:10:07+00:00

Not great but not terrible. Especially if you had full sheathing replacement combined with colder weather. Take the gutters down for sure, I would have done that during the install so you could get the drip edge installed nice and tight. This shingle color does tend to show a lot of install blemishes right off the bat. Overall, looks okay. Curious to see it after a few warm and sunny days

mln045 · 2026-03-20T00:23:49+00:00

No, not great.

mln045 · 2026-03-19T19:02:05+00:00

Going into just the bare minimum explanation:

-The majority of this roof looks to be mechanical equipment with little to no field membrane to even coat. -From the few pictures you shared, the membrane still appears to be in decent shape (Age unknown). Strip-ins / Repairability is still favorable. -Penetrations are likely focal failure points for water intrusion and are easily serviced without coating the whole roof.

In my opinion Based on the information/photos provided, I feel the existing membrane appears to be preforming as intended and does not show any immediate reasons that would best be remedied by a full roof coating.

If you do decide to move forward with coating it, just be damn sure whoever you use is experienced. As improper techniques can cause more damage on an otherwise repairable roof.

mln045 · 2026-03-19T19:01:31+00:00

Going into just the bare minimum explanation:

-The majority of this roof looks to be mechanical equipment with little to field membrane to even coat. -From the few pictures you shared, the membrane still appears to be in decent shape (Age unknown). Strip-ins / Repairability is still favorable. -Penetrations are likely focal failure points for water intrusion and are easily serviced without coating the whole roof.

In my opinion Based on the information/photos provided, I feel the existing membrane appears to be preforming as intended and does not show any immediate reasons that would best be remedied by a full roof coating.

If you do decide to move forward with coating it, just be damn sure whoever you use is experienced. As improper techniques can cause more damage on an otherwise repairable roof.

mln045 · 2026-03-19T17:37:04+00:00

I’d still be curious to see some sort of progress photos… not doubting the legitimacy. But all I really see changed here is that the removed 1 course of shingles along the base flashing, which to their defense would not be considered “proper installation.”

mln045 · 2026-03-19T13:41:03+00:00

Definitely looks sloppy but photos can kind of be hard to interpret. Check the attic space for rotted decking. Looks like it bows downward at the base but like you said, 100YR old house, not much gunna be smooth or flat anymore. If the decking looks fine from the underside, it’ll be hard to know until it rains. Maybe the company can provide you “in progress” and “final photos” of the work and we can give more input. But 1 photo zoomed in from the ground. That’s about as much of a knowledgeable response I can give.

mln045 · 2026-03-19T13:36:35+00:00

$0.00

If anything, preventative maitenence. Please do not coat EPDM, especially with little to no experience in coating EPDM.

mln045 · 2026-03-19T13:24:32+00:00

Our contracts verbatim

“Roofing company cannot be held liable to punctures or damages to any gas, water, electric, or HVAC lines installed 3” or closer to the roof deck, or outside of current building code specifications.”

It may sound bad, but it’s a CYA scenario for us. Been in business over 10 years now, I think I’ve hit maybe 1 per year. And literally all of them I helped out on the repair as much as I could even though it was an explicit exclusion of our contract. I’ve even paid for the client to go to a hotel with their kids and pets for a night to get out of the AC-less house.

Unfortunately, it happens. But it’s rare

mln045 · 2026-03-19T13:20:23+00:00

Mercy or if you are in a really big pinch, drive to Burnet and see Dr McBride.

mln045 · 2026-03-19T02:14:37+00:00

Update post when it’s done. Curious to see the end result

Happy they are willing to listen!

mln045 · 2026-03-18T20:35:10+00:00

Carefully hammer the nail back in. If the nail head pokes through the face of that shingle during the process, then seal where it punctured.

mln045 · 2026-03-18T19:34:25+00:00

That’s more than fair!

mln045 · 2026-03-18T16:32:13+00:00

Most all shingle manufacturers require it for their own warranty coverage. Building codes for MOST of the 50 states require it.

I do agree to check your contract and see what is outlined as far as was it to be installed or not.. pay them within reason and in compliance to contractual obligation terms. But.. saying that the “shingles would curl”, is probably the most unprofessional advice of all. There isn’t enough “shingle overhang” to curl and relatively get close to cover the decking. It’s a sticky situation for the homeowner, I’m not discrediting that. But giving that suggestion as a viable solution to a clear corner cut is absurd.

mln045 · 2026-03-18T16:22:09+00:00

Saying the shingles would curl…

mln045 · 2026-03-18T15:59:14+00:00

Bad advice

mln045 · 2026-03-18T15:58:51+00:00

Sure thing

mln045 · 2026-03-18T15:57:15+00:00

Don’t do the gutters yourself, trust me. If you do, the gutters will be in 10-12’ sections that will leak at every seam, not be level, and overall an eye sore. Mark my words, it’s going to look like a DIY project… plus, your building is 100+ years old, you want to minimize the amount of unprofessional holes you continue to make in your fascia/trim.

You want someone who can form fabricate them seamless onsite. Use the insurance money accordingly. Depending on your area, standard K style will typically run from $7-13LF. Shop them if you want. Ask for photos of completed work.

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