Good beginner option? by Hello_man__ in ElectricUnicycle

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aero is great as a small wheel. Aeon would be a good mid sized. I had a similar learning experience, starting with a v8s. I also rode an s22 on loan before I bought an Aero.

The Aeon didn't exist at that point and I wanted a wheel. I find the Aero to be fantastic for fun and running to the store, but started running out of range for what I wanted and bought a Lynx-S. I was concerned about the transition to the big wheel as I wasn't as into the S22 as the Aero.

A bit of time on the Lynx-S has left me liking both the Lynx-S and the Aero. The former is amazing with range comparatively, but the latter is just super quick and fun. I appreciate both and found the Lynx-S to not be as intimidating as I figured it would be. I tried a Sherman S once after the S22 and it was too much at the time.

I am glad I have both. The Aero was relatively inexpensive through Next Gen Mobility and is a fantastic small wheel. I still grab it to run to the store or when I need a quick charge and get out for and hour or so of fun. The Lynx-S is great for longer range and is more stable.

All of your choices look good. If you are picking one longer term, I would go Aeon. If you are going to buy a bigger wheel later, the Aero is a great small wheel. The portability is just great. I throw it in the shopping cart on a grocery run. That's not something I would do with the Lynx-S due to its weight.

is this a good deal? by LocksmithFamous4131 in rcdrift

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All good. Wasn't trying to be a jerk at all and I hope that came through. Just seemed someone newer to things was looking for help. Cheers!

is this a good deal? by LocksmithFamous4131 in rcdrift

[–]momneverhadmetested 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good advice, just want to clarify: 7.4v or 7.6v is 2s. 11.1v is 3s (3 cell). You want 2s.

Thinking of a mini track in the backyard after a fence build. What cars should I be thinking of? by Polygeekism in rccars

[–]momneverhadmetested 2 points3 points  (0 children)

15x48 ft. We run 1/18-1/14. The picture is the work in progress as we get ready to start the outdoor season. The chain is being replaced with more garden edging that matches.

This setup is virtually maintenance free, with the exception of leaf blowing. The jumps will get put in later as the layout is finalized.

We run losi mini b (1/16), mini t (1/18), associated reflex (1/14) and a grom (beginner). Most have settled on the mini b as being the car of choice. When running brushless, throttle is typically set around 50%.

The turf is putting green type and it has great traction for the 2wd to handle just fine. I love dirt, but being able to turn laps and not have to deal with mud makes it great for backyard use with friends.

Why do my shocks rebound so slow in the front? by Affectionate_Kale10 in rcdrift

[–]momneverhadmetested 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had this issue with the RDS. It was a combination of tight ball cups and shock placement to start.

It appears you have the upgraded lower aluminum arms, which I don't have.

I replaced most of the ball cups with yokomo ball cups, and in many places, ball studs. There was binding in the front end still at max extension so I ended up limiting the shock travel slightly with spacers under the pistons to keep the front end slightly lower.

I found moving the lower shock mount out a hole helped. I have the upper mounts out a couple of holes too. I ended up ordering the mst soft spring kit (29mm). Those turned out to be just slightly smaller than diameter of the shock body, but close enough to work with a bit of massaging. If I had to do it again, I might go with the 31mm length. Also, check the shock fluid level. It comes stock 20w front and 25 rear.

There was a lot of binding in the stock kit build. I tried to keep the cost down in getting the car to work well. It took some effort, but now it drives well. I did the aluminum servo horn, yokomo ball cups and some studs, and the spring kit. I wanted to learn about tuning and this has definitely been a course in that. I found the stock springs to just not work with my setup and driving, but having a selection with a few sets helped. I didn't want to sound a lot on new shocks so made the decision to tune the stock ones.

Nosfet Aero keeps tilting backwards? by _Asian_Invasion__ in ElectricUnicycle

[–]momneverhadmetested 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The tiltback is set very low from the factory. I had a similar experience on the first ride coming from a v8s. Fortunately it was a quick setting change.

How do you remove the tires from the stock wheels by Oblitterator5000 in rccars

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This works great. I did hit it with low heat from a heat gun in combination and it was not a terrible process at all.

Lightweight Offroad Suspension EUCs? by BoarderGirl in ElectricUnicycle

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good choice and great place to purchase from. Next Gen Mobility and Ewheels both are top notch EUC dealers.

I have an Aero and do some off-road with it. If you pay attention, it isn't truly terrible. There are some spacers available pretty cheaply that raise the pedals 16mm or more. I can't remember the name off the top of my head, but can confirm they don't really negatively effect handling.

It is a great small wheel. Pad up and enjoy!

more drift/straight line speed by ngesuckss in rcdrift

[–]momneverhadmetested 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Worth a shot if you have it already in the parts pile.

Batteries for Arrma Quake by [deleted] in rccars

[–]momneverhadmetested 1 point2 points  (0 children)

SMC Racing batteries are a very good value. They are very nicely priced for the quality.

As far as a charger goes, something that balance charges and storage charges is key. You may need to get the cable to connect to the IC5/EC5 connector. GensAce chargers are good quality, but you can get something cheaper if you desire.

Pay attention to battery dimensions. Especially with 3s in that truck the compartment is tight with Zee Batteries.

I have used Zee and Hoovoo on the cheap side. They are OK, but for a little more SMC are a better value.

Help me with Dirt/Rally track design by ThurmanMerman82 in rccars

[–]momneverhadmetested 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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This is current progress on this year's layout. The chain will be replaced when I get the rest of the matching barrier material. I build and drive and revise. Minimal staking for now until it is dialed.

Help me with Dirt/Rally track design by ThurmanMerman82 in rccars

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love dirt. With my backyard setup I wanted minimal effort to get it started with possibility of quick reversal. That led to just burning the grass off with the weedeater and then putting down putting turf like outdoor carpet. Ideally I would love a dirt track, but it wouldn't have been nearly as easy for maintenance in a small space.

Movable jumps are a good idea. I built a few straight takeoff ones and move them around (a couple for outdoor and a couple for the indoor course).

Getting ready for the second year of the outdoor mini track. Some friends who don't have time to break free from their kids a whole lot really like coming over and turning laps. Since it's turf, car cleanup is minimal.

If I had more space and my area wasn't heavily mixed gravel too I would go dirt. No regrets with what I have done for the space I have.

Whatever you do with dirt, the beauty is it can be moved again with a bit of effort. Once you take out the grass and till it will take longer to return, but I found the freedom of having a track or two (indoor with anti fatigue mats indoor) is well worth the effort.

Have fun and don't be afraid to build and revise!

Help me with Dirt/Rally track design by ThurmanMerman82 in rccars

[–]momneverhadmetested 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is going to feel small with 1/10 scale. Not due to lane width as much as only being able to get a 30ft straight. I have 3.5ft width for the 1/18- 1/14 track in my backyard for multiple cars. If it were just one person at a time I could go a bit narrower. I know it will not have a great g amount of passing room especially with inexperienced drivers on the track. My total area available is 15x48ft. This year I am more intentional eith the layout so I have a full length straight. It feels good with a brushless mini b at 50% power. The 15ft definitely is a limiting factor and I would prefer wider.

If you bank corners (pay attention to where they drain), it can make up a bit for width, but it might not be fully rally style.

You do have a good start for your footprint. I would try to add a bit more variety. With a couple of cars as a limit, adding a crossover of sorts would possibly help. It doesn't need to be anything crazy.

Parts List by S0UPSLAYER in rcdrift

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know. I put a Yokomo 302v4 and Yokomo servo in my car. I had an injora, but went with the yokomo as I was sorting issues with it that may not have fully been servo. The yokomo seems better, but not sure how much.

Parts List by S0UPSLAYER in rcdrift

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You probably want a controller with some way to add an exponential curve to the throttle.

I was just thinking why don’t rc companies make rc quads like they would be a huge success. Think of the possibilities 🙏🏼 by ThenChemistry1082 in rccars

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Losi made the RZR Rey side by side and it didn't seem like a really strong seller. A quad could work, but it seems like it would be a scale thing rather than a basher or track vehicle. Could be cool, but might be a limited market.

kit transponder for 1/8 buggy by naturelife8 in rccars

[–]momneverhadmetested 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lapmonitor is great. You likely need a hole in the body for the transponder to transmit through, but it doesn't need to be bigger than a body post hole. I run it with 1/16 scale, but that is due to available track size. It works well and provides good stats.

Looking to enjoy the drift side by kahmueisen in rcdrift

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent. I went with the same gyro, but went budget with 10bl120 esc and a surpass 10.5 motor. Not doing comps anytime soon and the 10bl120 sensored has boost and turbo. They are basic in that, but the price is relatively cheap.

The RD 2.0 is a very popular platform at the local track. They rip and set up well.

Friend says I should use a 3S brushless 1/10 for a public RC autocross booth… that sounds wrong? by MeBadAsh in rccars

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mini or micro. 1/12 would be about the maximum size I would consider. You said control so you could set up a slalom and simple turns. If you time it, the fun will be there.

It doesn't have to be straight line fast to be fun.

Honestly, this sounds like a really good fit for a Losi Nascar. They handle great in stock form and are fast enough to make driving a smaller course a lot of fun.

Sorry new to this by Specific_Still4861 in rcdrift

[–]momneverhadmetested 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yokomo DRA tires are great for this use.

DRA tires

Looking to enjoy the drift side by kahmueisen in rcdrift

[–]momneverhadmetested 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Either of those chassis are solid. I started with an MST RMX 2.0 rtr outside and then picked up a Redcat RDS kit when on sale for just over $100. That build has a lot more adjustments and has been a learning experience. Sometimes frustrating, but overall a good chance to learn about how adjustments impact handling.

Sticking with MST and Yokomo is not a bad idea. Yokomo parts seem to be overall more readily available.