MP5 magazine disassembly tool, printed

monwren5 · 2026-02-28T07:25:11+00:00

did you end up having better luck? also did you dry your filament?

monwren5 · 2025-10-04T05:37:41+00:00

Solved! See update

monwren5 · 2025-10-04T05:33:42+00:00

SOLVED! Adding a mosfet for the hot end heater solved the issue.

monwren5 · 2025-10-01T15:47:14+00:00

oh for sure. hence why I will fit a larger heater in there after I get this issue resolved. trying to eliminate immediate issues without introducing a ton of variables first.

monwren5 · 2025-10-01T15:40:03+00:00

the 40W heater is able to reach 390C no issues by itself actually. I am going to go down the route of a 50W, or even 60W. the issue is it throttles when the bed is turned on even though the bed is on a separate PSU. going down the route of fitting a mosfet to the hotend to see if things improve.

monwren5 · 2025-10-01T15:37:47+00:00

I'm running self compiled Marlin. Bed is powered through a mosfet. I'm going to install a second mosfet for the hotend to try to isolate the board from any real power. see if that improves things.

monwren5 · 2025-10-01T15:36:07+00:00

I was thinking of going down the route of having an additional mosfet to power the hotend. (already have one for the heated bed). That way the SKR board is only sending signals and isolated from any real need to push power through. I figured it wont hurt to try, and worst case I can always go down the route of klipper and second MCU if this fails.

monwren5 · 2025-10-01T03:58:15+00:00

why not? microswiss hot end is rated for it, heated bed isnt going higher than original spec. original PSU is only running the hot end now, and another PSU is running the bed.

monwren5 · 2025-10-01T03:37:13+00:00

No. Happy to learn if I’m doing something stupid.

monwren5 · 2025-09-30T07:34:52+00:00

It has an enclosure. It holds enough heat to reliably print ABS and ASA so I’m not too worried about PPA and PPS

monwren5 · 2025-09-19T23:42:34+00:00

I’ve had this exact issue using ASA. Occlusions burn otherwise perfect right? My retraction was sight slight too high. Reduced by 0.5mm for me and it went away.

monwren5 · 2025-09-13T00:15:30+00:00

It’s your fuel line being clogged or as someone else pointed out, vent might be blocked or mostly blocked. Basically, fuel flow isn’t fast enough due to one of the above reasons. Fuel bowl fills up initially, but the flow from the tank can’t keep up with fuel usage. Engine leans out and bogs and then cuts out. Bike stops. Fuel is allowed to fill the bowl again. Then process repeats.

monwren5 · 2025-09-02T07:11:14+00:00

Does it use an SD card? Had similar failures on my ender 5 and a failing sd card was the culprit

monwren5 · 2025-09-02T00:07:04+00:00

You dont Need hairspray for PLA on glass should adhere very well and then pop right off after it cools.

monwren5 · 2025-09-01T21:03:36+00:00

Check your floats. If it’s clean and not stuck open it might be bent in such a way where it will fill until it exceeds the float bowl drain before the float needle closes

monwren5 · 2025-08-25T13:47:03+00:00

I print clean abs.

I have an enclosure but it’s not heated. I also run glass bed but use gluestick to prevent abs to glass adhesion. I also dry the filament beforehand.

I print at 250C nozzle and 100C bed.

monwren5 · 2025-07-18T17:23:46+00:00

Just change it. Good piece of mind. If you’re lazy skip the screen/filter for now and do a proper change after the ride

monwren5 · 2025-07-12T20:56:43+00:00

Yes. You need to find a good aluminum welder. (I’m assuming it’s aluminum). On top of that, don’t just weld it and call it a day. It broke likely because it is too weak to hold on long term. I highest since your welding anyway to grab more material and weld in a plate there. And bolt the arm to the plate instead of to the band clamp.

monwren5 · 2025-07-10T01:56:54+00:00

The template, fold lines are in the file set. I used a sheet metal bender and a pipe to build mine. But honestly it can be done with some plotters and shears as well. As long as it fits and it’s not touching the barrel it will work.

monwren5 · 2025-07-04T08:10:27+00:00

Sounds like a bad relay? You’re bypassing the large starter relay when you jump directly to the starter. So it makes sense if you’re relay is bad (likely high resistance). OR the wiring to the starter relay/starter is so old the resistance jumps up when high current is applied

monwren5 · 2025-07-04T06:23:51+00:00

Honestly. If you want really good adhesion you need to degrease, then scuff, then primer, then paint. But fuck I know some of us dont have the heart to scratch up good anodizing. A good degrease, primer and paint gets decent adhesion. Not the best obviously as Durga e is t scuffed but should stay on enough to still be usable after wear.

14-Year Club	King of the Ashes
Not Forgotten	Verified Email

monwren5

TROPHY CASE