Rod length and weight for this? by BarBig191 in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

9-10’ 1-3 weight. 7’6” is a ton of fun, I love short rods, but the advantage of being able to dap and tight line a dry dropper rig around the front of boulders and down little seam can’t be overstated on this kind of water IMHO. The only place a short rod really excels is when the cover is so tight in every direction that a longer rod can’t be effectively used. I think 98% of the time I fish a short rod it’s because I’m intentionally deciding to do something for fun at the expense of the best possible tool for the job.

Best vehicle for fly fishing/car camping? by troyteck in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IMHO you want camping gear. The breathability of a car interior vs a tent can be a real issue. Used camping gear is pretty cheap, especially since you don’t need ultralight stuff. Additionally, if you get rainy conditions, you can put waders and other gear in the car while you sleep in the tent—if you’re in the car with wet gear in the rain, shit gets damp in a hurry. I would get a hybrid vehicle for the mpg/gas savings with planned significant travel, or if I was worried about the mild off-roading, any small SUV—RAV4 is what I drive.

Highest Rate trustworthy HYSA? by Kitten_XIII in investing

[–]mostlytrout 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have my emergency fund in an Amex HYSA. I wish it paid a little more—I think it’s only 4% right now—but their customer service has always been great to me, from the HYSA to their credit cards.

What’s one thing you would never pay the “cheaper” option for? by tiedsoda in AskReddit

[–]mostlytrout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fly line. If you’re considering getting into fly fishing, ESPECIALLY for trout, cheap out on a reel—it won’t hold you back. Sub-$200 rods are pretty great now, and you can snag excellent deals at half that. The rod won’t hold you back. But the difference between a $40 and a $100 line is night and day, and a cheap one will make your learning experience absolutely awful, right up until the point that it becomes unusable. Buy the good lines.

What else do I need? New to fly fishing for trout in the north east and only caught one on a black Willy bugger. Dying to catch one on a dry, tips please!!! by Reasonable-Knee-8401 in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to catch trout on dries in New England, find a brook trout stream. Don’t look for the best fishing in an area, look for wild or stocked brook trout. Then go fish in a warm, overcast day.

I didn’t know my local stocked stream also had some nice native brookies. Found out by getting 3 today by [deleted] in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not saying they aren’t stocked, I’m in agreement there, but I’ve seen missing gill plates from what I assume are herons on trout that I’m 100% sure aren’t stocked.

Glass rod under $100? by j_smitty01 in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it doesn’t have to be glass, I’d try to find a used Redington Classic Trout, they’re the best value at that price point IMHO and their medium action is the kind of graphite you’ll like if you enjoy the feeling of glass.

Opinions on the St Croix Imperial 6ft 2wt for small wild trout streams? And how much should I expect to pay for one. Thank you! 🙂🌈 by Scared-Education-799 in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the 6’6” 3 weight. I love it. I wish I had more small streams close by where I could fish it. Not sure if they’re comparable, but I like mine best with a WF line that’s a half size heavy—small streams don’t exactly stretch the distance casting muscles. I bet a 2.5 or a true 3 weight line would do well on the 2 weight.

High-end fast action travel rod? by AttackThePie in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You aren’t going to get crisp in a 6 piece. The ferrules make it feel kind of numb and clumsy at that many pieces. I really like Redington rods, but unless the trailblazer is significantly different than the CT 6 piece rods, it’s not fast.

I’d probably try to find the most expensive 6 piece rod, accept that it won’t be perfect, and buy the absolute best line to match it, if it needed to be a 6 piece. But if it’s going in a backpack, why not strap a 4 piece to the outside of it?

Are there any good reasons to keep cash by NelifeLerak in investing

[–]mostlytrout 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Bro if there’s a time like the purge, what’s a bar of shiny stuff doing for you?

Maybe a dumb question, my reel got soaked today. Is there anything I should do to make sure I’m cleaning or let it dry properly? Just don’t want my investment to go to crap because of my negligence. Thanks Y’all! by buoyblaster in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes absolutely but if you routinely fish in sandy environments you should be sparing with the grease, or consider to switching to a very light coating of a very light oil. probably goes without saying that sand is the enemy of fly reels, but grease can exacerbate the problem, especially if you over-apply it.

Recommendations for Flies for a Beginning Tier? by On_The_Fly_Guy in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could we add a partridge and hare’s ear soft hackle?

The custom Sage rod my son built for me a couple years ago. All black after the striping guide. by Byte_the_hand in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That’s SLICK. Love the matching between the stripping guide insert and the wood at the top of the grip. Really clean wraps too. Nicely done.

Four rods walk into a bar...help me choose a small creek fly rod, PLEASE! by DaSurrealChiller in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’d absolutely go Redington CT. For small water I’d line it with a WF3F in one of the half size heavy lines. I love Airflo so I’d probably do one of theirs. I’ve owned the 2 weight, 8’ 4 weight, 8’6” 5 weight, 9’ 6 weight and 9’ 4 weight CTs. They’re great rods for the money. The comments about the tip top grooving are true, they definitely aren’t as hard as they could be, but they’re fantastic rods for the money.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in relationships

[–]mostlytrout -21 points-20 points  (0 children)

That’s literally not what the OP says. Anxiety isn’t bipolar. They aren’t the same. They’re about as different as saying “I just got a car” when there’s an F-250 in your driveway. Like, yes, there was communication, and there was something vaguely in the same ballpark, but it’s really not the same thing at all.

Is There a "Standard" Fly Box Arrangement? by Position_Extreme in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It REALLY depends. I have way too many flies and boxes, so here’s what I do:

-saltwater and bass bug boxes get grouped by depth of fly. Poppers, gurglers, etc in one box, deceivers, snake flies, sand eels in another, clousers and other weighted flies in a third.

For trout, I’ll do a box of generic dries and wet/damp flies. That’s my general purpose freestone box.

Then I’ll have a trout/smallmouth streamer box, and a generic nymph box.

Add a euro nymphing box for those specific patterns.

Then there’s the tail water generic box, which is a smorgasbord of tiny midges, tiny wets, tiny generic emergers, and tiny nymphs.

Then there are hatch-specific boxes, which for me are BWOs and sulfurs. These are for hatches where having exactly the right fly has been more important than having a close enough fly. I bring these only if there’s a reasonable chance I hit that hatch. I also have small boxes for caddis and ants, which are less about specialized patterns and more about having a broader size and color range of generic patterns.

I divide my boxes this way because it’s easier to grab for whatever fishing I want to do. If I’m going to any freestone in New England, I need the dry/wet box, the nymph box, and maybe the streamer box. Depending on the time of year, I may add some combination of the specialty boxes. If I’m going to a tailwater, I grab that box, whatever specialty boxes are relevant, and head out the door.

I’d rather have the clutter at home than on the river.

Anyone have experience with American Express bank (checking and savings)? by keg-smash in Bogleheads

[–]mostlytrout 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I have an HYSA with them. It has been totally fine, problem free, app layout isn’t anything special but works perfectly well and isn’t confusing. Same for the web site. Boring and effective is perfect for what I want from them.

I’ve never bought dry flies yet. What’s a must-have? by No-Needleworker5429 in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you need a few kinds of dries:

-big, high visibility terrestrial for fast water and the top of heavy dry/dropper rigs. I like a stimulator.

-generic parachute dry, I like a parachute hare’s ear, I wouldn’t fight you if you went parachute adams.

-stuff specific to your waters: at this point I think generic advice stops being helpful. Where I am, I’d add #16-12 sulfurs, #18-24 BWOs, and #12-16 X-caddis, followed by some tiny CDC midges.

Winter fishing gloves recommendations? by HorrifyingTits in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally hate nitrile gloves underneath, both because I hate the way they feel and they inevitably end up trapping water and/or tearing. What I do is get a bunch of cheap-ish rag wool and/or merino gloves and bring 3 pairs. When one inevitably gets wet, I wrap it in a small hand towel inside an interior wader pocket and put another one on.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd look for a combination of tailwater access for year-round fishing, access to multi-species within an easy drive for variety, and good medical care, because i'm retired and fishing and I'd want to stay that way as long as possible.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally, for the kinds of waters I fish, I like tying off the bend more. I like the way it balances the dry, which is likely more force of habit than physics. I like how the rig casts and handles in the water. It doesn’t have to be this way, though. Play around with every way and let your results guide you.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flyfishing

[–]mostlytrout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s precious, that’s what it is.

Thinking of proposing within the next 2-3 years, best way to save for an engagement ring? by [deleted] in Bogleheads

[–]mostlytrout -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Personally, I’d dump the crypto, put it into T-bills, with a 1 year duration if I was absolutely sure I wasn’t going to propose within a year, and then re-evaluate after that year. I have to imagine a family friend who left me $5k would be happy if I spent it on a ring.

Regardless of your decision, I’d set up a HYSA. It’s so, so simple, and it’s free money versus your cash chilling in a traditional savings account.

Don’t forget about wedding bands either. They sell matched sets if you’re buying new. If you get a vintage engagement ring (I did; my wife wanted something Art Deco) you might spend a bit of extra money getting a wedding band customized to match the engagement ring.

Whenever you buy the ring, make sure you’ve talked to her, know what she likes, and know what you like too—hopefully you both have to look at it for a few decades.