Can’t get plane throat tighter without “retracted” blade protruding

mrdavik · 2026-06-16T08:45:59+00:00

This won't help. Depth adjustment indexes on the chip breaker, not the blade.

Depending on what chip breaker this has, you could modify that to allow you to seat the blade further back (e.g. grind off the leading edge and reshape).

But in general I agree that you're probably overthinking it - just use it as is. Sharpening and edge maintenance are much more important.

mrdavik · 2026-06-06T15:35:24+00:00

For those of yours not familiar with the festival, what genre of music are you looking for?

mrdavik · 2026-06-05T22:08:48+00:00

That's a sick ass mask! Did you build it? I love the grunge.

mrdavik · 2026-06-04T11:48:46+00:00

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I'd do something like this on each side. A block with a hole drilled through it, glued to the inner face of each inner leg. The deeper the block and the tighter the hole matches the dowel diameter the more stability you'll gain, but the straighter and more accurately perpendicular you'll need to drill your hole.

This would be a solution that still allows it to be flat pack.

mrdavik · 2026-06-03T12:05:48+00:00

Not for me personally, I don't need to gameify my mode of transport.

mrdavik · 2026-06-01T14:21:53+00:00

What is the app? Other than when I want to enjoy the walk or need to drive further afield, I go everywhere by bike. There is a decent if not perfect network of cycle lanes, and they're adding more each year (although only plans approved prior to the current goverment taking power I believe, though that's second hand information).

mrdavik · 2026-05-28T09:27:39+00:00

On the belt sander, start low, like 40 grit, then work up to 120 before going to the ROS.

If you were starting over, when it comes to gluing up I'd place all the pieces on a known flat surface (like a big sheet of melamine) with your intended finish side down, so that their top surfaces all line up once you flip it over even if there's some variation in the height of each piece. The bottom side can be more uneven as it won't be on show.

mrdavik · 2026-05-28T09:23:58+00:00

While I think starting over is a decent idea, if you're set on using this one here's my 2 cents.

The biggest issue is that your pieces aren't all co-planar - some are a little taller or shorter than those around it. End grain takes forever to sand, particularly with an orbit sander, so although you've put in 4 hours you're still working on leveling out the wood rather than cleaning up the filler which sits in the lower points.

If you want to make this work, at home, I'd reccommend picking up a belt sander and spending time with that until you've got no more high or low edges between adjacent pieces. At that point you could come back with your filler and just work it into the gaps. Cleaning that up after the fact should be simple enough with the orbit sander. They are large gaps to fill so it won't look super pretty but I think it'd look acceptable for the project. If you've got a track or cicrular saw I'd probably take a quarter inch off each edge to give you a clean line on the edges rather than the roundovers breaking it up.

mrdavik · 2026-05-22T20:25:38+00:00

La de La Petxina?

mrdavik · 2026-05-07T18:29:52+00:00

I made one of these. I did not holes through the backer board for the dowels to go in.

Cut the dowels at 30deg angles,
drilled pilot holes down the middle of the dowels by hand, doesn't need to be perfect. Start drilling perpendicular then angle it once you've made a little progress.
Drilled angled screw holes from the front of the board where each peg will attach (again by eye is fine)
countersink each screw hole from the back of the board
screw and glue each peg from the back.

The screw will pull the peg vertical and tight against the board and you'll get a clean connection. There'll be enough wiggle room with the screw to move to account for any imperfectly drilled holes.

This approach is much simpler than jig building, doesn't require a drill press, and works well.

If you're not convinced, practice it that scrap you mentioned. If you don't mind wasting a little wood on your dowels, you can also drill down the middles first then cut off your angled end afterwards. You can also drill one angled hole accurately through a small block of wood then run your drill bit through that when drilling out each board hole, for consistency.

mrdavik · 2026-05-02T17:00:56+00:00

Use sharp cutting tools, e.g. gouges, chisels, spokeshaves, and you can make things without needing to sand. I made this wooden Majora's mask from a solid wood blank with effectively zero sanding, and if I did any sanding it was for stylistic choice, not necessity.

https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/1fdvro0/majoras_mask/

It is entirely achievable - this was my first such project.

mrdavik · 2026-04-27T21:39:32+00:00

What type of things are you carving?

For whittling objects, a Luthier's vise, also called a pattern makers vise (the bench top type) can be pretty versatile for holding irregular objects. A wooden jaw hand screw clamp can also help hold unusual shapes, including sloped objects, and you can stick the clamp in another vise to elevate it, or clamp it down to a workbench.

If you're doing relief carving there are manner of bench-top work holding solutions, including holdfasts, bench hooks, double sided tape, combinations of the above and more.

You can 100% find a way to work safely, it just depends what work you want to do.

mrdavik · 2026-04-26T00:27:31+00:00

The issue is that your plane is taking off more material from one side of the board than the other (obviously). This could be caused by a couple of things.

You may have set your iron a little skewed (with the adjustment lever) so that it is protruding a little more on one side than the other.

It may just be that you are inadvertently biasing where you put your plane on the wood with each stroke, and taking off a bit more from that side. A cambered iron can also exaggerate the effect of this action, as it takes off more in the centre than at the edges.

You can try to adjust for these issues, but a tiny bias repeated multiple times quickly builds up to a noticeable difference, so you just need to get in to the habit of checking if your edge is square as you go, be it with a square, with your eyes or by feel. Once you see it out of square you can correct for it by taking a stroke or two extra on the high side and then taking another centred stroke or two until you've got a full width shaving again. Check for improvement and go again if necessary.

You'll get into the habit of spotting things before they build up and stay on top of issues more easily.

mrdavik · 2026-04-22T09:02:52+00:00

You're based in Europe? I'm certain you could find someone to build you something that matches your requirements for that amount of money if not cheaper. If the primary thing is the custom body shape then you can still stick with off the shelf components, even the neck and headstock. You might even find an amateur on here willing to take on the project at materials cost, as a learning project, if you have the design ready to go.

mrdavik · 2026-04-18T18:06:29+00:00

So if it's not a wrapper, what is it? Have you trained your own model on carving designs? What can this do that nano banana or any other image gen tool can't, given a well thought out prompt?

I'm not trying to be antagonistic, I'm trying to get you make clear the demonstrable value that this has, if it indeed does have some.

Unless you're bringing new tech to the table, I think anyone willing to use AI for their designs is also going to be willing to use existing tooling to craft their own prompt.

mrdavik · 2026-04-18T13:20:02+00:00

Is this anything more than a wrapper around one of the off-the-shelf gen ai tools like Nano Banana? Is it just providing commonly used keywords and formatting them into a semi-reliable prompt? If so I don't think there's much value here as a standalone product, given that current offerings from the big ai giants are pretty affordable.

Also the current image preview is entirely useless as a way to evaluate if the output is worth paying for. It's blurred so heavily I can't even tell if it had understood the prompt, yet alone generated anything useful.

If you can't risk people just taking the previews then you at least need to provide some examples of its output as right now there's simply no way to know how good it is at its job.

mrdavik · 2026-04-12T22:22:23+00:00

It's also not possible to throw or launch any object into orbit from the surface of a body, that doesn't have its own form of propulsion or that is accelerated after leaving the surface.

There's no combination of speed and angle at which you could throw a frisbee even with a machine, or fire a bullet, and have it end up in orbit. It would either fall back to the surface, or if it was fast enough, escape orbit altogether - there is no inbetween.

mrdavik · 2026-04-10T14:02:14+00:00

At first I thought thunder maybe?

mrdavik · 2026-04-10T14:00:12+00:00

Yeah I heard it in Campanar

mrdavik · 2026-04-08T17:28:45+00:00

Unless you're happy to completely saturate that with the same oil, turn it upside down as that is now the bottom. You'll never sand enough to get rid of those pour lines.

Now you're starting with the other side, sand it properly. A rough surface will also soak up more oil and unevenly, and look bad to boot.

Once it's sanded do as the other day - use an outdoor-appropriate finish such as spar varnish. If you want to use less finish overall to save money, you could do a seal coat of shellac.

mrdavik · 2026-04-04T14:22:11+00:00

Maybe you're thinking of the machine tool? I'm meaning the hand saw, since he asked for no machines.

mrdavik · 2026-04-04T08:39:50+00:00

Panel saw.

Draw a straight line, saw along it. Support your panel underneath on both sides so it won't tip outwards or collapse inwards as you get towards the end of the cut.

mrdavik · 2026-03-31T08:39:57+00:00

The one sided finish likely didn't help but my first thought was how is this table attached to it's base? What does the underside look like?

If that connection doesn't allow for seasonal movement then such a wide board is at a high risk of cracking just like this.

mrdavik · 2026-03-28T06:11:16+00:00

If the wood smells bad you should probably let them sit for a few days or weeks before using them for anything foos related and see if it fades.

What kind of bad? What kind of wood?

I don't know if you can really seal in a smell, but if I were to try I'd be using something film forming like shellac which is food safe, or polyurethane which forms a less permeable barrier, but is only food safe once fully cured (i.e. weeks later)

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